I inherited a 16 Ga. Le fever

Status
Not open for further replies.

Doogledog

Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2008
Messages
223
Location
L.A. (Lower Alabama)
I inherited my Grandfathers old 16 ga. Le Fever "Nitro Special". It's not in the best of shape. I know it really isn't a collectors item or an "expensive" side by side but, it does have quite a sentimental value to me and I don't think it's something I would ever part with. It's got quite a bit of rust and the stock is split. I don't think there is anything about it in such bad shape that it can't be fixed and I would like to get it back into working condition. I'm wondering where I could send it to get it repaired and approx. how much would it cost? Again, I know it probably isn't worth that much to anyone else but it is priceless to me. I just don't know of any reputable smiths in my neck of the woods and I would like to send it to someone who realizes how important it is to me.
 
Here's a place to start:

This one has metal refinishing by Doug Turbull, and a stock by Classic Gunstocks:
http://www.classicgunstocks.com/Nitro_Special_Restoration.html

This guy was Ithaca's master 'smith for many years, and now has his own shop (the Nitro Special is really an Ithaca gun): http://www.diamondgunsmithing.com/page31/Specialty Restoration.html

I've got a 16 Gauge Nitro Special, also. It's a good shooter. Mine's not as beat as what you describe, but I may restore it at some point.
 
It's got quite a bit of rust and the stock is split. I don't think there is anything about it in such bad shape that it can't be fixed and I would like to get it back into working condition. I'm wondering where I could send it to get it repaired and approx. how much would it cost?

Best thing to do clean it up and hang it on the wall.

Doubles are very expensive to repair and most of the good firms won't waste their time on low grade guns.

I once sent a double in to be put back on face and the shop sent it back with a nice letter saying that it wasn't prudent to spend $900.00 to fix a $300. gun.
 
I'm going to hazard a guess that resale value isn't the issue here.:)

However, if it is, huntsman's advice is important.
 
Don't do anything permanent to it on your own right now. Light oiling, wiping, normal cleaning etc. aren't permanent, sandpaper is permanent, for example.

If the action is sound and tight, it might be worth spending some money on to get into shootable condition. If the barrels are off the face, (i.e. there's a visible gap in the breech between barrels and action when the gun is closed) the locking lever is left of the midline etc. then it might be too far gone to do more than clean up and use as a wallhanger.

Take a look at this for more...

http://www.briley.com/articles/grampas_shotgun.html

Hope it helps- and good for you for wanting to take proper care of this heirloom.

lpl
 
"Quite a bit of rust" means different things to different people. I'm guessing that this gun isn't encrusted or anything.:)

I had to do some stock work, but I did it with West System Epoxy. Works great.

That's another option: hit it wit Kroil and a terri cloth rag. Sometimes, surface rust comes off. Fix the stock with good Epoxy with a wetting agent, like West System, and maybe hit the wood with some Tru-Oil, steel-wooled to a lustrous semi-gloss. The gun might look pretty good. That's all I did. I'm just tempted by Turnbull's gorgeous CCH.:)

The barrel regulation on mine is amazingly good. There was a time when gunmakers did things right, even if the gun wasn't the most expensive thing on the market.
 
Lefever Collectors Assoc.

Lefever Form

Diamond Gunsmithing also has lots of info on serial numbers/dates etc...

Like said Kroil it with 0000 steel wool to remove surface rust, clean it down real good and then oil it liberly...take some Tung oil (natural preferred as it has ZERO gloss) and use the 0000 wool on the stock about five or six times until the finish is even, wiping after each rub down and then when finished give it another very light coat of tung--I just put some on my hands and rub it down that way...

If you don't intend to shoot it, mount it on the wall cleaned up but if you do have it checked by a competent smith to see how "tight" it is -- still! They were and still are great guns, a true classic American double barrel of which there weren't very many "quality" ones made...

Value could go as low as $125/150 to a high of $350/400...

Doubles are no more or less expensive to fix then anything else...it all depends on the amount of work required and as pointed out spending $900 on a at best $300 relic isn't worth it regardless of the sentimental value...

You could also just leave it as is, if it didn't have the degree of rust you state as lots of people like the patina of used guns as it shows their history, so to speak...
 
Instead of 0000 I'd use bronze wool. 0000 will take the finish right off a gun.

Mine is tight, the barrels ring beautifully, and it shoots great. It was made in 1926. If the gun was not trashed, it is a fine shooter, not a wall hanger.
 
Instead of 0000 I'd use bronze wool. 0000 will take the finish right off a gun.

I'm sure bronze wool works fine, but oiled 0000 steel will not "take the finish right off". Just keep it oiled and don't rub like a madman and you'll be fine.
 
Thanks for all of the responses. The gun does work and shoots fairly well but the stock is my main concern. It won't shoot much longer with the split it has in it. My father-in-law has a 12 guage very similar to mine and it also has a similar split in the stock. Is that common to that type of shotgun?
 
What direction is the split? Where is it?

3 dimensions.

Like I said, Epoxy with a wetting agent, properly applied, may fix it. I've done that with more than one shotgun.
 
When I get home tonight I'll take some pictures. The split runs right through the middle of the stock. It starts where the screw in the tang meets the butt stock.
 
Is that common to that type of shotgun?

Not with the Nitro Special they were built stout, some of the stocks on old shotguns get weak from the oil leaking down and being absorbed into the wood and some like Elsie’s have specific problems from design.
 
My Lefever was a bit oil-soaked. A big chip came off of the side flat behind the receiver (where a sideplate would be if there was one).
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top