I just picked up a Smith and Wesson 357 cant find model number looking for any information

[burrhead]

The Feds coming is somewhat unlikely. What I would worry about is being pulled over for a traffic violation and somehow the pistol being examined by the officer. A pistol without a serial number will get you cuffed and stuffed even in gun friendly states. Best thing the OP can do is try to get the previous owner to take it back. If it came from a FFL I'd be raising Cain.

 

[bangswitch]

View attachment 1204332

This picture of the inside of the yoke cut on the frame looks like a badly finished weld. Also, there is an "N" stamped on the left side of the butt frame, indicating this is (was) a nickel plated gun. Looks like the finish has been removed, as it would have to be if welding was done on the frame. It's definitely a M19 or Combat Magnum, and has seen better days.

 

[jcdmgiles]

Thanks

 

[burrhead]

jcdmgiles, I hope you don't feel we're piling on. It's just that given the times we live in, this is the kind of thing that could put a good person in prison. I hope you can get this resolved without losing any money. I also truly hope you stay around; this is really a pretty easy going and friendly place.

Good luck.

 

[jcdmgiles]

Haven't lost anything gave me to look at and see what I could find out thanks

 

[Jim Watson]

I am am amazed at the number of posts on guns with deleted or altered serial numbers. Mostly USGI that “left the service” by pilferage but some commercial.

Anecdote Alert.
A friend worked at the local Gun and Pawn. One day he was offered a Model 14 with the main serial removed. He loaned a bit on it, being sure to get ID. The customer got a visit from LE and BATF, the original owner got his gun back because my friend knew the OTHER serial number locations and it could be tracked through shipping records and Bound Book.

 

[halfmoonclip]

If the OP bought the gun from - or through - a FFL, there is SOME number on record.

This is the question. Also, I'd have to question the provenance; it seems unlikely that the prison system would have gone to the expense of nickeled service guns.
I saw a dealer at a recent show, examining a minty Python, with its serial number (under the crane) plainly defaced. He had paid someone for it, and somehow hadn't noticed the serial number issue before the gun changed hands. Did he jump too quickly, on a great deal? I don't know, but he wasn't happy.
jcdmgiles, hope you got it sorted out....don't think I'd want it in my possession.
Moon
ETA- never understood the mentality of defacing a serial number; the gun is 'hot', regardless, and with a bodged serial, the cops don't even have to check...you're jammed up just having it.
M

 

[StrawHat]

This revolver intrigues me more than it should. I am not a fan of K frames but my interest is piqued.


This information was shared with me by Jim Carter,

“…Here are the 6 or 7 (Triple Lock models only) pre war fixed sight frame serial # locations which are also the locations remaining after WW II thru ~1956 to look for (not including the 3 stamped serial # locations for pre war and early post war Transitional models with pre war target sights.)


1. Grip frame butt* (prefixed by a letter(s) following WWII) - or forestrap* on I frames/single shots with grips that cover the butt

2. Barrel - bottom of barrel or in extractor shroud

3. Yoke - on rear face (except the .32 Model 1896) only visible thru a chamber with a flashlight

4. Extractor star – backside (which is actually the side facing the muzzle).

5. Cylinder - rear face

6. Right stock only - on back, scratched or penciled depending on vintage and stock material, stamped after 1929, (except most post war target grips because individual fitting not required.)

7. Mid-lock cam plate, backside with cyl open – “Triple Locks” only, in any caliber (up to all 5 digits)…”



Also, it was not uncommon for a gunsmith to relocate the serial number from the bottom of the grip frame to the side of the grip frame if work he was doing would deface/remove the serial number. This was an accepted practice.

So, if the OP can examine it a bit more closely, he may be able to find the serial number. Maybe it matches one of the numbers on the grip frame, maybe not.

Kevin

 

[BobWright]

If the gun was made after 1957, the model number will be on the frame under the yoke. It'll be "#1" in the photo.

View attachment 1204319

Prior to 1957, S&W didn't have model numbers. So, what we today call a Model 19, was marketed by S&W as the "Combat Magnum." They first hit the market in 1955.

Au conttraire! S&W has always had model numbers, they just didn't advertise them. The very first S&W revolver was the Model No. 1, then Number two, then No.1 1/2 : the top break series began with the No. 3. Later the system was changed to incorporate frame size and bore size, as N430 for the first .44 Specials, etc.


Bob Wright