Certaindeaf
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The threads could fail and then with a big dose of Murphy, there you go?
I really don't want to spend $60 on cleaning rods
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UKWildcats
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Brass is soft and relatively weak -- that is why they do not make guns out of brass anymore.
While the rod is 0.2" in diameter (at the most) the thread section of the rod is probably no more than 0.1" in diameter.
The last jointed rod I broke -- and I have only broke one -- broke at the thread. I was putting it together to clean a barrel when the thread broke -- that is all it took for me to say get a 1-Piece Rod.
If you happen to mess up pushing a patch through the barrel and the patch binds and the rod breaks you will not be able to remove easily -- per the thread posted earlier. It is not even a huge investment for a one piece rod -- heck I have two (2) .22 caliber rods, a .30 caliber rod and a Shotgun rod and they should last a very long time.
While the rod is 0.2" in diameter (at the most) the thread section of the rod is probably no more than 0.1" in diameter.
The last jointed rod I broke -- and I have only broke one -- broke at the thread. I was putting it together to clean a barrel when the thread broke -- that is all it took for me to say get a 1-Piece Rod.
If you happen to mess up pushing a patch through the barrel and the patch binds and the rod breaks you will not be able to remove easily -- per the thread posted earlier. It is not even a huge investment for a one piece rod -- heck I have two (2) .22 caliber rods, a .30 caliber rod and a Shotgun rod and they should last a very long time.
doubleh
Member
KleenBore makes a excellent one piece stainless steel rod and it comes with a bore guide. It's very slick and is radiused on the end that goes in the barrel where it can't scratch anything and it's too hard for any grit to embed in it. It works with 22 caliber barrels and up. I've used one for years. It's a high quality piece of equipment.
ApacheCoTodd
member
Must be a LOT of crapola jointed rods being used by board members. I have yet to have one single jointed rod fail inside a bore in either the push or pull mode. The couple of times that I've had one unscrew - I simply screwed back together in the bore.
Stop buying poo-rods.
Makes me think of fellas griping about tools, a vehicle or at least the fasteners on the vehicle then you find out he splurges for tools at the Harbor Fright fairground sale.
Stop buying poo-rods.
Makes me think of fellas griping about tools, a vehicle or at least the fasteners on the vehicle then you find out he splurges for tools at the Harbor Fright fairground sale.
A one piece rod is a cheap investment compared to the cost of the barrel on most firearms! That said, a doubled piece of weed trimmer line allows you to pull patches through the barrel in perfect saftey. In my opinion, you can pull through a much tighter patch than you can push through on the end of any cleaning rod.
jcwit
member
At least get Dewey rods or go up from there.
Can brass scratch a bore? Check that out by asking a local bench rest shooter. Can soft metal scratch or harm steel? My soft lead bullets will right thru a steel plate.
Regarding the Winchester kit, bet it says "Made in china" on the box.
Can brass scratch a bore? Check that out by asking a local bench rest shooter. Can soft metal scratch or harm steel? My soft lead bullets will right thru a steel plate.
Regarding the Winchester kit, bet it says "Made in china" on the box.
UKWildcats
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One other thing to consider if you are using a Brass Rod -- some gun solvents are designed to remove Copper from rifle bores -- and one of the main component of Brass is Copper, so:
The solvent will attack the rod, and
The rod could give a false negative on the patches
UK
The solvent will attack the rod, and
The rod could give a false negative on the patches
UK
? That would definitely cause the rod to shear-off at the thread shoulder.Quite a few posts questioning the ability of relativly soft brass rod scratching or gouging bore. Ever hear of an abrasive lap? a softer material is charged with abrasive and can cut the hardest steel. With care..wiping rod after every pass will help..some say plastic coated rods will pick up grit also? Some only advocate polished hardened stainless uncoated rods. I think it all comes down to how you clean & care for the rod..no laying down on gritty surface, etc...storing in a rod case. I do believe in a one piece rod over the jointed ones.
Pete D.
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Rods
As to coated rods and grit....what grit is a rod going to pick up from inside the barrel that is harder than the barrel steel?
Pete
PS - FYI. Doesn't apply to this discussion. Curiousity led me to Google about the relative hardness of various iron alloys as compared to various copper alloys. According to what I found, not all types of brass/bronze are softer than all types of steels.
A couple of the bronzes, phosphor bronze and manganese bronze, have Brinnel numbers higher than some steels. None of this stuff, neither the steel nor the bronze, is used in shooting, AFAIK.
P
+1. Clean a .22 rim fire barrel? What a concept.
As to coated rods and grit....what grit is a rod going to pick up from inside the barrel that is harder than the barrel steel?
Pete
PS - FYI. Doesn't apply to this discussion. Curiousity led me to Google about the relative hardness of various iron alloys as compared to various copper alloys. According to what I found, not all types of brass/bronze are softer than all types of steels.
A couple of the bronzes, phosphor bronze and manganese bronze, have Brinnel numbers higher than some steels. None of this stuff, neither the steel nor the bronze, is used in shooting, AFAIK.
P
Deus Machina
Member
I wouldn't use an aluminum rod without a radius on the corners. Aluminum oxide is tough stuff.
Brass very well can wear on steel. Otherwise you would never get barrel wear aside from throat erosion. Just give it time. I'm perfectly happy to use brass in anything I own, but bench rest shooters might get some more rounds out of a barrel if they stay with polished and hardened stainless, maybe.
As for picking up grit, I don't trust anything left in a barrel to be harmless. Flecks of steel from Wolf bullets or casings, microscopic steel or chrome from the corners of your rifling wearing, and even a lot of carbon-based compounds can be pretty hard.
Nothing to worry about unless you're a bench rest shooter hoping for the extra 10 rounds or 1/32" between barrels, or if you just keep the rods clean. But polishing tools and brass gibs on a previous lathe tell me that, yup, they can pick up grit and never let it go.
That said, I have never managed to break a rod. I can see how it could happen (maybe #6 threads between some of the smaller ones), but I've never used a rod with such a tight patch and given it enough flex that it will snap them. Lemons are lemons, and I don't worry about it otherwise. Still, I do mean to buy a decent one-piece just for the bearings in the handle and the other frustrations that it would alleviate. I don't care how tight a patch is, a cheap Winchester doesn't want to rotate on the push stroke.
Brass very well can wear on steel. Otherwise you would never get barrel wear aside from throat erosion. Just give it time. I'm perfectly happy to use brass in anything I own, but bench rest shooters might get some more rounds out of a barrel if they stay with polished and hardened stainless, maybe.
As for picking up grit, I don't trust anything left in a barrel to be harmless. Flecks of steel from Wolf bullets or casings, microscopic steel or chrome from the corners of your rifling wearing, and even a lot of carbon-based compounds can be pretty hard.
Nothing to worry about unless you're a bench rest shooter hoping for the extra 10 rounds or 1/32" between barrels, or if you just keep the rods clean. But polishing tools and brass gibs on a previous lathe tell me that, yup, they can pick up grit and never let it go.
That said, I have never managed to break a rod. I can see how it could happen (maybe #6 threads between some of the smaller ones), but I've never used a rod with such a tight patch and given it enough flex that it will snap them. Lemons are lemons, and I don't worry about it otherwise. Still, I do mean to buy a decent one-piece just for the bearings in the handle and the other frustrations that it would alleviate. I don't care how tight a patch is, a cheap Winchester doesn't want to rotate on the push stroke.
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rduchateau2954
Member
I think I am going to get the tipton rod for my .270.
I have boresnakes in .22 and .270. I use them both for quick cleaning but I have doubts about how well they work.
I have boresnakes in .22 and .270. I use them both for quick cleaning but I have doubts about how well they work.
RustHunter87
Member
I got my tipton rod from SMG fairly cheap didnt expect such a nice rod for what i paid
FIVETWOSEVEN
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Different things here with different physics being applied.
captain awesome
Member
my sentiments exactly
jcwit
member
There are those that can break an anvil with a tack hammer!
R.W.Dale
Member
Yes because examples of fine low cost Chinese craftsmanship NEVER fail just because
posted via that mobile app with the sig lines everyone complaints about
posted via that mobile app with the sig lines everyone complaints about
possom813
Member
I guess I'm lucky, I've never broken a rod.
I hit garage sales and flea markets a lot, every time I see one of the cheap kits I usually pick it up for a couple of bucks.
I bought a good size tackle box for all the extra stuff and keep a small utility box with everything in it, if I break something, I have extras.
I think the best score was an old J.C. Higgins cleaning kit, complete in the box. I got it for a buck and it has the thick, shotgun rod with it. And it also gives me a warm fuzzy to go with all the J.C. Higgins stuff around the house(everything from fishing reels, to plinkers, to an old boat motor that I need to make run)
I hit garage sales and flea markets a lot, every time I see one of the cheap kits I usually pick it up for a couple of bucks.
I bought a good size tackle box for all the extra stuff and keep a small utility box with everything in it, if I break something, I have extras.
I think the best score was an old J.C. Higgins cleaning kit, complete in the box. I got it for a buck and it has the thick, shotgun rod with it. And it also gives me a warm fuzzy to go with all the J.C. Higgins stuff around the house(everything from fishing reels, to plinkers, to an old boat motor that I need to make run)
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rduchateau2954
Member
UH OH!!!
40" or 44" for my Tikka T3 Lite?
40" or 44" for my Tikka T3 Lite?
jcwit
member
Want to go the cheap route? Do you have a Graingers or MSC Ind. Supply outlet near you? If so go there and buy a length of centerless ground drill rod 36 inches long and either 3/16 = .188 or 13/64 = .203 inches in diameter and make your own. Cost will run between $3.00 to less than $10.00 depending what type of steel you buy.
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rduchateau2954
Member
First post is updated.
40" or 44"
40" or 44"
Centurian22
Member
Does the 40" meet your needs with the use of a bore guide? If so do you think you'll ever buy a longer rifle that would require the extra 4"? If you think you may need the long one get it, if not, stay with the shorter so its less cumbersome to deal with and less chance of flex.
monet61
Member
FWIW, Over the years I have converted to one piece rods for everything. I do use a boresnake for .22 and .223. I don't like segmented rods, plus I end up with mismatched segments. I know that's on me, but one piece has been worth every cent to me.
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