Ideal Double Action Trigger Weight?

[Old_Grouch]

came to say this.

but like many have posted, smooth is the key more than weight (within reason, of course)

Indeed. Just as "crisp" is of more concern (to me) than weight for a single action let-off. I have no qualms about a 5 lb pull if it's crisp.
Full disclosure: I have nerve damage in my dominant hand. I have no issues with strength of flexion of the index finger, but I have VERY little extension strength so I have to rely almost entirely on the strength of the return spring for reset to get any speed. I can fire more rapidly with a DA revolver than I can with my Keltec P32 or my LCP.

 

[PzGren]

PzGren,

I was allowed to dry fire two different Korths
about two years ago. Don't know at what
tensions the triggers were set for DA. They
were both right out of the box specimens.

But I felt the triggers were too "single action"
in feel; that is, once I started to apply pressure
the triggers went through the full cycle. I
didn't feel like I had full control of the triggers
nor did I achieve a "cadence" or "rhythm" in DA
control.

Perhaps too short a test, at least in dry fire, in
each case but I was turned off by the Korths.
Guess I'd need more testing or different
settings for the triggers.

I'd love to handle and test dry fire or live fire
a Manurhin. Perhaps down the road...

Th stacking can be changed with Korths. You have a lot of reading up to do.

 

[Master Blaster]

Smooth 8-11 lbs da. Too light and un-reliable ignition is the result. Then their could also be trigger return problems that could lock the revolver up if the rebound spring is too light.

 

[UncleEd]

PzGren,

Regarding Korth "stacking," could you please
explain, if not for me but for others who want
to learn, what the trigger adjustments can do?

Thank you.

Just looked up the Korth manual on trigger
adjustments. Now I know for sure I wouldn't
want a Korth.

 

[Pat Riot]

For me it’s all about how the trigger feels versus the weight of the pull.

Way too many users buy a revolver, immediately decide the springs are “too heavy”, and throw in a light spring kit. Some without even testing to see if they reliably set off primers...

This is such a great point. I can’t tell you how many times I have seen people change out parts because “Joe S*** the Ragman uses XYZ this or that and he’s the bestest guy on the planet ever” or they get into the “I wanna be one of the boys too” mindset and waste money and time on something they probably should have tried out for a while first before possibly mucking it up.
I am pretty sure that S&W, Ruger, Colt, etc doesn’t hire dipsticks for their engineering departments.
Give a gun a chance, for crying out loud. Test it. See what it becomes.

 

[trackskippy]

For me it’s all about how the trigger feels versus the weight of the pull.




This is such a great point. I can’t tell you how many times I have seen people change out parts because “Joe S*** the Ragman uses XYZ this or that and he’s the bestest guy on the planet ever” or they get into the “I wanna be one of the boys too” mindset and waste money and time on something they probably should have tried out for a while first before possibly mucking it up.
I am pretty sure that S&W, Ruger, Colt, etc doesn’t hire dipsticks for their engineering departments.
Give a gun a chance, for crying out loud. Test it. See what it becomes.

Well, you know how it goes, if someone cant work the gun, its got to be the guns fault. Its never them.

 

[PzGren]

The rollers that interact with the D.A. sear can be changed, Korths used to come with five different rollers, now it's three, and it changes the stacking in D.A. How the trigger return spring is working can also be seen in this photo:

 

[PzGren]

...
I am pretty sure that S&W, Ruger, Colt, etc doesn’t hire dipsticks for their engineering departments.
...

The S&W lock work is a great design and their revolvers suffer no design fault but lack of attention to details in the final assembly and a sad absence of quality control. A side by side comparison of a pre-war S&W, and their revolvers from the 1980s on will show the downhill slide and engineers had probably very little influence in theses business politics.

 

[bassjam]

I'd rather have smooth than a super low weight. I've left the internals alone on any revolver I use for self defense, instead relying on using it and dry-firing to help smooth the trigger.

A high trigger pull can be overcome with practice, and I believe that regular practice is key to keep that trigger finger strong. I noticed when I tried carrying a semi-auto for a year and then went back to a revolver that trigger pull suddenly felt incredibly hard, but after a couple months of practice my groups in DAO were as small as they had been with the semi-auto.

 

[wcwhitey]

Right. My M640 was one of the last .38s in the pipeline when they magnumized the steel J frames. Tuned and engraved it is my "cute little revolver" demonstrator.
View attachment 1030069

Very nice. Never had work done on mine and never measured it. But butter smooth and light from decades and of shooting and dry firing. Had an armorer or two double check it a few times and smile. But tight as the day it was new, just broke in beautifully.

But to the original question all I ever wanted from a trigger is to be smooth, predictable and reliable. I have a 6” Model 66 that I can tell had work done and it’s trigger is a wonder. So far it has fired every round out thru it. Whoever did the work did it well.

 

[Oldschool shooter]

My 2 J- frames were treated to some light polishing and springs. They are smoothe as glass and break at an even 9 lbs DA. Feels fine for me.