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im having primer problems?

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I just started reloading this week, I made my first batch of 50 Sunday(9-23-07) of 45 ACP for my springer 1911(5")

I have a Lee classic turret with pro auto-disk powder measure, lee four die set, and safety prime.

My load-
Bullet: 230gr Rainer lead safe RN full jacket
Case: Once fired Winchester
Powder: 5.0gr of Win 231
Primer: Winchester LP
OAL(with primer at a good dpeth):1.23"

It took me a while to get use to seating primers, some of the primers are sticking out a tiny bit. Is this ok?

If not, I can pull the bullet and powder. How do I get the primer out(a live primer)?

I also droped a few primers on my bench and the floor(i keep them seperate) can I use them, or should I get rid of them, and how can make them useless before throwing them out?
 
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If the primer is just sticking up a little I'll go ahead use it for plinking, not for matches. If it's sticking up more than that it goes into my reject can. I reload in such a large volume that it's not worth my time to pull the bullets. Removing a live primer is something else I won't do. Other guys do it - but not me. The few cents worth of primers isn't worth the risk. Primers on the floor get swept up and discarded. Some say soaking in oil will kill a primer, others say it won't. I dispose of the reject cartridges and live primers in a way others won't be able to get at them.
 
since you are a beginner,

I will start by saying that I would NOT shoot semi-auto rounds that protrude even "a tiny bit" as you've described. Your "tiny bit" may not correspond to my "tiny bit", and you don't need premature ignition to learn about at this stage of the game.

Can you give us LOA differences between one of your rounds with a fully-seated primer and one with the primer protruding?

If you only have 'some' rounds that protrude, you might try the disassembly experience with your impact hammer. That will allow you to try to re-set the primers. But I would NOT try doing that just yet--set them aside for use when you have more confidence and more skill in the priming step. I've done it when I've needed to, and it's reasonably safe to re-seat them--you just need to have more experience so you will have the "feel" down right.

For the time being, simply disassemble those rounds and set the cases aside for use when you're ready to try reseating the primers.

As for the dropped primers: There's no issue in using them. The reloading sequence without the Safety Prime (but with priming on the press) on the standard Turret Press requires one to handle the primers, and unless you're a total slob with filthy fingers or you're loading over the cat's litter box, there's no problem. Simply put them in and use them.

Any other questions, feel free to ask.

and there it is--two posts with conflicting information! Take your pick....

Jim H.
 
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Listen to what what Primerinmyshoe said. Chief-7700
Primersinmyshoe If the primer is just sticking up a little I'll go ahead use it for plinking, not for matches. If it's sticking up more than that it goes into my reject can. I reload in such a large volume that it's not worth my time to pull the bullets. Removing a live primer is something else I won't do. Other guys do it - but not me. The few cents worth of primers isn't worth the risk. Primers on the floor get swept up and discarded. Some say soaking in oil will kill a primer, others say it won't. I dispose of the reject cartridges and live primers in a way others won't be able to get at them.
I have been able to reseat some primers on my XL-650 if they will cycle the shellplate if not they go into the mistake box, however if it is a loaded round always pull it apart.
 
The OAL on one that has the primer is seated correctly is 1.236

the OAL on the one i could find with the primer sticking out the farthest is 1.250
(i also used the depth checker on my caliper and the primer is sticking out 0.012)

i also measured a round where the primer sticking out is about average the OAL is 1.244
 
Primers need to be fully seated into the bottom of the primer pocket and enough added pressure for it to sensitize. Primers not fully seated will often cause misfires as the firing pin is cushioned by the primer movement as its being driven into the pocket. These rounds will most often fire if loaded a second time or the hammer cocked and given a second hit by the firing pin. The first hit of a primer that's not fully seated will normally drive it to the bottom of the pocket and the second hit will set it off.

If you pull the bullet and powder you can just re-seat the primer that is high, then expand the case mouth, recharge and re-seat the bullet.

Primers dropped on the bench or floor will work fine and there's no reason to discard them.
 
First, I would not shoot the high primer stuff.
You run a slight risk of an out-of-battery Kaboom in an autoloader, and they certainly won't work in a revolver because the cylinder won't turn.

Dropped primers should be found when you drop them, not left to litter the floor until later.
They can become lodged in a soft shoe sole, and they can be set off trying to scuff them off on the floor. Or they can be carried some distance, only to fall of later where a small child might find one.

An anvil or cup that gets out from under a shoe will have enough velocity to cause injury or put out an eye.

If you do choose to pick them up and use them, make sure the anvil is still in place inside the primer.

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rcmodel
 
i am going to find all the high ones and make that many more, i will then dismantle the high ones and reseat the primers then I will remake them later.

Dont worry I picked up all the primers that fell right after they fell, and i have them set aside
 
I don't see any reason whatsoever why you cannot use the primers that hit the floor.

Your protruding primer loaded rounds simply need to be dismantled (230-gr bullets are relatively easy to pull), primers seated, then reflared and charged before seating your bullets.

Put some leather or something in the nose of your inertia hammer to prevent the bullet noses from deforming.
 
I touch primers all the time, I drop them, I step on them and put them back into my lee safety prime. No problem whatsoever, all of my Wolf brand primers detonate just fine. those are cheapy wolf primers, take note. Can't imagine what happens with other, *better*, primers like winchesters, but if they don't work after they fall off the bench, then I'd save a few bucks and get a better product from wolf.

Now, as to the not-so-well-seated primer. I've never had a predetonation from a primer sticking out, and I'm sure I've had my share of them. When I first started reloading a few months ago, I learned that you've got to strap that press DOWN, with bolts... into something solid... so you can RAM that lever home on the down stroke. I have three carriage bolts holding my lee 4-hole turret to the bench, and I still grab the back of the press when I'm seating a primer. I load quickly, around 150-200 rounds per hour, so I don't get all of the them seated perfectly, and that's ok...or at least it has been so far. I use 230 grain lead projectiles, so your harder TMJ ammo may cause a bigger issue.

Note, if you're tumbling your brass, you want to deprime after you tumble or you'll get garbage stuck in your primer pocket. You don't need that headache. You can clean up the primer pockets if you want, but I don't find it's necessary, just hammer that ram home and seat that puppy. It works like a charm, without incident for thousands of 45acp rounds for me now.

I'm also a sloppy reloader, so take my advice with a grain of salt. At least that's what I feel like I have to say so I wont' get bashed so bad from folks who've never tried what I'm talking about.
 
good on you for tackling the reseating.

Do you think you have the feel for a primer going in fully now?

Jim H.
 
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