Info on a Luger would be appreciated!

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Good luck with that ammo. In my younger years I had a Luger that shot like a champ with the Canadian surplus ammunition then available. When that dried up, there was nothing in town but Remington which did not do well at all. So I sold it to a collector. Now I could tailor a handload for it.
 
Thank you Dr. Rob...would you have any issues firing it? Any additional background on the gun would be appreciated, as well. I would like to get ahold of a manual of some sorts to detail how to break it down for cleaning. My dad said the gentleman who sold it to him stated there is a tricky spring to deal with when re-assembling...again, just asking and thanks for the info!
 
A minor sub-note on the name, DWM is as Dr. Rob said Deutsche Waffen- und Munitionsfabriken, or German Arms and (Am)Munition(s) Manufactury; the Aktien-Gesellschaft (usually referred to as AG) is more akin to "Incorporated," or stock company with the Aktien referring to publicly traded shares, as on the stock exchange. Weapons were marked "DWM" and the company was DWM AG; kind of like American weapons were/are marked with the makers name and not always with "Inc." or the like. Where "works" is translated the German is Werke, as in Waffen Werke Brunn (Brno). Like English, German can get picayune: let sleeping dogs & GmbH lie... :rolleyes:
 
some more questions

Thanks again for the info...A couple more questions...

Looking at the gun, there is a "notch" at the bottom of the grip's middle metal edge. what was that for? Also, there is a metal "strap loop" looking thing at the top of the grip...what specifically for?

My Dad said that the grip and the round area at the bottom of the clip is wood so I shouldn't get any Hoppes oil on it. If it is wood, what type? And any cleaning /storage tips would be appreciated...here are some more pics to show what I'm asking... Thanks! Phil
 

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The rib and notch on the butt are to attach a shoulder stock. More commonly used with the 6" Navy and 8" Artillery models than the 4" Army sidearm but just as easy to make them all the same.

The loop is a lanyard ring. I just recently read that there was no official German pistol lanyard, the Army seldom used anything, the Navy just looped a cord through the ring to keep from losing a gun over the side.

The magazine bottom looks more like brown plastic to me in this example. If it is really wood, it is walnut like the grips.
 
Wow. Fascinating, Jim. I agree the magazine bottom feels and looks like plastic (but to my untrained eye, so does the grip). Thank you. Phil
 
Remove the screws & you can remove the grips. They slide down & off, reverse to replace. Look under them & if there are numbers that match the pistol serial number, they are (obviously) matching. If no numbers they are replacements, if different they may be original but non-matching.
 
first time I've seen that style side plate/take-down lever,,any numbers on the lever??
 
That odd takedown lever and sideplate was first mentioned in #16, but no one seems to know anything about it. I would love to get a good look at it "in person."

Jim
 
More detailed pics

Here are some more pics of that lever area...hope they provide some more insight. FYI, I had to cock the gun to get the lever to pull down...Thanks, Phil
 

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Yep, I took off the screws and removed the grips...no numbers on the back, but definately wood! Maybe a "zero" on one...Phil
 
I looked through alot of the "Simpson Ltd" site of the DWM lugers and also found nothing like the lever that's on my gun (much flatter before the round grippy). I'm thinking someone machined a part on their own at some point in time in it's history...also, most of those guns are way more expensive than the $825 my Dad paid...Any thoughts? Phil
 
I don't know how long ago Dad bought that Luger, but prices are up all over.

Also, Simpson's is a dealer in business for profit, those are retail prices and rather high ones at that.
 
He got it about a month ago. Did those pics help? I may be shooting it this weekend at the range and I'll let you know! Phil
 
Just my 2 cents: I own one but it's in horrible condition. Mine shoots .30 luger, like most of them do. If you have one chambered in 9mm luger, you're sitting on a gold mine (that fits in your hand). I can't tell from the pictures, but if it has an American Eagle stamped on the top of it (like the one on the back of quarters) its worth a bit more. Make sure you know what it's actually chambered for before you use it, if you do you use. I've HEARD that serial #'s on most lugers mean absolutely nothing, because the Germans were running the same serial #'s over and over, so that they could disguise how many guns they were actually producing, just before WWII started up.

Other than that, all I can say is you have a very cool, old gun. Happy shootin'!
 
See how the takedown lever has marred the finish it's likely an aftermarket replacement...

take down for cleaning:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SD9hqSoBb5Q

reassembly:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBP0RX7mctQ&NR=1

this is not quite how I do it, but very close.

"Blue" is the bright blue/black finish of the steel. You'll often see wear marks on the high spots from carry in a holster, like on the side plate and the barrel tip.

"Straw" is a gold-tone coloring often found on smaller parts, as it fades/oxodizes over time it turns sort of plum colored. It wears/changes color a lot faster than the bluing.

The 'percentage' of each is a valuation of the finish of the pistol. (Luger folks are obsessive about such things.)

You shouldn't plan on running any hot gee-whizz wonderbullet ammo out of it. Given the replacement lever and mismatched sideplate, it may well fall into the 'shooter' grade of Luger. But again Lugers are a specialized market, the guys over at Luger Forum can tell you all manner of stuff us 'single Luger owners' only guess at. You should join that forum, post pics of your piece there and see what replies you get. Probably before you shoot it. (I'd probably shoot it. But that's just how I roll.)
 
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Well, a couple of points. The Germans did not run the same numbers over and over to disguise production figures. Their numbering system involved a letter suffix. Numbers went from 1-9999, then 1a-9999a, 1b-9999b, and so on. Plus each maker used the same system and they started each year at 1. So a complete Luger description has to be the maker, the date, and the serial number with suffix. Example: Luger pistol, made by Mauser (code byf) in 1942, serial number 1234b.

The straw color is the result of the heat treatment of the part. With time and wear, it may lose the yellow color and become white; it does not turn plum color. Plum color on those parts is the result of hot tank bluing on certain alloys or heat treated parts. In 1937, Mauser stopped using rust bluing and straw coloring parts and began tank bluing of everything. After that, the parts formerly straw color became blue or plum color. Parts were tank blued by American gunsmiths also, when refinishing the guns.

"Most" Lugers in the country today shoot 9mm, as they are wartime bringbacks and that was the German military/police caliber; the 7.65 (.30 Luger) was not in the supply system in Germany. Most .30 Lugers are guns sold in the U.S. after WWI, when German makers were banned from producing guns in the military 9mm caliber, so they reworked ex-military Lugers to 7.65mm for sale to obtain desperately needed hard currency.

As to that odd takedown lever, it may very well be a gunsmith-made replacement for a broken lever, maybe by someone who did not have an original to copy. If so, it is not a bad job, but it doesn't look like factory work.

Jim
 
Well Jim just told me something about my Luger that I didn't know... like I said, Lugers are all about the little details.
 
Just FWIW, the straw color was obtained by heat treating the parts in a bath of molten postassium nitrate, then oil quenching. The same process gives that bright fire blue seen on other guns (like Colts) if the part is left in longer.

Jim
 
Just an update for anyone who cares! Well, I finally fired the old Luger off about a month ago with some target ammo 9mmLuger... and everything went fine for the first clip. But...trying to fire the 2nd clip didn't go so well as the "trigger bar" broke. I have finally found a great gunsmith in my area and he has ordered a replacement part so I should be back up and shooting in no time. I did find out a few things...that weird drop-down lever was probably off a similar type gun or possibly machined out of necessity. The clip is indeed a reproduction and not original to the gun (the bottom is plastic not wood). All in all, a great gun and a great "shooter". The 9mm is verified and the ammo I am using is fine as well. Do I wish everything was original and pristine? sure, I guess, but the goal was always to have a Luger that I could shoot, take care of and learn about. Well, mission accomplished. Anyways, I would really like to express my appreciation to everyone who read and replied to my questions. The amount of information you provided me helped immensely in learning all I know about the gun and steering me on to find out more on my own! Again, thanks alot and I'll update again when I get it out of the shop and get a good round in at the range....Phil
 
One last and final suggestion Phil. Take up the fine art of reloading ammo for that beauty. It will come out much cheaper in the long run plus you can custom tailor your loads to match that weapon. Lower the power just a tad and make sure each and every round is at the proper length so you wont have feed issues
 
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