Is it worth it for me to start casting?

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Baron

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I've been reloading for several years now and love it. I'm not a tremendously high-volume shooter, but I enjoy the process and custom-tailored loads which reloading gives me access to.

For quite a while now I've had in the back of my mind to think about casting. It would give me tremendous satisfaction to be able to shoot greater quantities without being nagged by the cost of bullets. However, I'm not sure that the type and quantity of shooting I do justified the investment of time and money.

Much of my regular shooting is done either through gas guns or with suppressors, for both of which I understand lead is a no-no. Outside of these, I shoot 1911s (.45), 357 SIG, .44 Mag, and 9mm.

Here's the kicker: all but the .44 are regular carry guns, and I carry JHPs. I know that is it a BIG no-no to shoot jacketed after lead without cleaning between - does this mean that I'd have to clean all my pistols after each range session, no matter how little they were shot? (Don't get me wrong, I am not in the habit of letting dirty guns sit, but sometimes I only run two or three mags through a particular pistol during one range trip.)

I really, really, really like the idea of casting, but I just want to be sure it's worth me getting into. Many thanks for your wisdom.
 
Is it worth it?

Monetarily, for a low volume shooter, probably not.
If you're in it to save money, probably not.

Now if you do it just cuz you can do better for your gun than Hornady, MBC etc, etc,
then yes, it is worth it!

I already have 10 lbs of wheel weight lead, but it's too dang cold outside to cast.
So I'll be starting to cast in the spring.

And as Puddin99 said
Everything you ever wanted to know about casting but were afraid to ask:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/index.php
 
Worth it? Probably... Depends on...

... what you shoot...
... free/cheap(ish) lead sources...
... how much time you have...

I've been casting off and on for many years, started with a .50cal Hawkens back when local availability of round and minnie balls was scarce but lead was free/cheap here in NoVA. My main motivation (like my homebrew) is to make what I can't get locally, reliably or at a reasonable cost.
Don't get me wrong, I like MBC's products but they and many others can't produce HP cast with their high-volume gear. So I fire up the little Lee 20# pot and break out the MP molds http://mp-molds.com/ and the odd Lee or Lyman and cast for an hour or three. Another hour or so sizing/lubing with the Lyman and I'm read to roll. Hit a water jug with the 200gr penta HP from the 45LC makes for an impressive geyser :)
 
I found it worth it, because I have 2 five gallon buckets of wheelweights and a free supply. Also, it is like trapping. I do it, because if it were not for folks like us taking up these things like trapping and casting they could be lost for the coming generations.


Cast my friend, even if it is just so you can say you know how. It will cost you less then $150 to get completly setup and there is something special about casting your own.

I also cast my own pyramid weights for striper fishing and worm weights for bass fishing.
 
Fantastic responses. Thank you all. I think I'm going to bite the bullet (sorry - boolit!)- I didn't realize I could get completely set up for $150 - that's free compared to reloading! Which yes, I got into to save money - I almost get sick when I add up all the money I've spent "saving money" in reloading, but I wouldn't trade it for the world. Thanks for pushing me over the edge.

I think I'll spend a good part of tomorrow cruising tire places looking for wheel weights as I'm now fully panicking that I have come just a bit too late to the party! Shoulda known "they" would have banned anything lead/free/fun/American by now...
 
Is casting worth it?

In my opinion if you can get free lead then yes it is worth it. I get free WW's and my smelting and casting set up was around $200. I don't figure my time because I don't figure it for any other hobbies. With the free bullets I am loading 45 auto for $25 per 1,000. Basically I can load any pistol round I cast for that price. My 1911 is very accurate with those bullets and I don't have a leading problem. It's a great hobby that ties in with the shooting and reloading hobby.
 
I enjoy casting boolits as much as I enjoy re-loading. I enjoy reloading as much as I do shooting. I enjoy shooting as much as I enjoy (you get the picture). Don't know if casting for you is monetarily worth it but I guarentee you its a blast and I would recommend it.... Life is too short my friend.

The Dove
 
1000 .45 ACP for $25? Say no more.

And yes, I always had a sneaking suspicion that it would be really fun. Yee-haw!!
 
I agree with what most have said. If the source of lead is inexpensive, then you can save a bundle.

If you enjoy casting and get pleasure out of it, then it is definitely worth it.

You need to make up your mind on the value and the best way is try it out.

Enjoy your new hobby.
 
Somebody say free lead?

P4110016.jpg

This is indoor range lead. All it cost me was labor, some gas for a truck to haul it, and propane to smelt it.

P4110003.jpg

Turkey fryer, 16 quart cast iron dutch oven.

P4110001.jpg

This is about half of what we ended up with, all told, a ton of good boolit metal.

Is it worth it? I'll say!!! I have enough lead to last the rest of my life, and my son's life. I'll break down a good starter kit using Midway as a source in another post.
 
Absolutely...the only thing you'll regret is not starting 10 years sooner.

Get the Lyman reloading manual. Other manuals are good as far as they go, but Lyman delves into the 'Black Art' with far more detail than any other I've read.

I started when an interest in shooting bullseye was piqued by a new shooter that moved to town. I quickly discovered I needed better firearms and a few other odds & ends.

You will also discover, after a short time of familiarization, that your bullets can be a lot better than the ones you can buy. The biggest issue with shipped bullets (from a bullseye shooters perspective) is the dented bases (from being knocked about in shipping) and the hard lubes that most commercial casters use (they are ok for velocities over 1100 fps but not for target velocities 700-900 fps). You will also dramatically increase the accurate lifespan of your barrel.

All shooting disciplines will vary, but for a serious Bullseye shooter a barrel with lead bullets should last between 35000-75000 bullets (the huge range depends on bullet hardness and the lead alloy that is used). A barrel for jacketed bullets will be in the neighborhood of 20000-25000. The barrels will still shoot after that many rounds, but the gilt edge accuracy that's required just isn't there. My last Kart barrel on my wad gun lasted about 35000 before I replaced it. I used a mixture of hard cast and jacketed in that one (98% lead-2% jacketed)

Bore dimensions must be cast for. Your cast bullets should be .0005-.001 OVER your bore diameter. If you have undersized bullets you will have leading like nothing else you've ever seen. Your choice of wheel weight is a good one, they make fine bullets. Also don't overlook range scrap, it's usually free for the asking and normally makes a little softer bullet.

If you plan on shooting at target velocities, soft is better than hard. A soft bullet will better obturate and seal the bore if the bullet is slightly less than bore diameter.

Make sure you follow Puddin99's link, lots of info and a great bunch of posters. another site to check out is this one.
http://www.lasc.us/ArticlesFryxell.htm

Make sure you never cast around water, with good ventilation and long sleeves and gloves. Remember INSTANT 3RD DEGREE BURNS=not so much fun.

Enjoy and welcome to the brotherhood of the Silver Stream.

FWIW
Stork
 
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=645810

Lee pro 20 pot, don't bother with the production pot, alias the "drip-o-matic". On sale right now for $57.99.

645810.jpg

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=516757

516757.jpg

44 mag 240 SWC gas check mold. They offer other designs all the same price. On sale for 19.77.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=333470

333470.jpg

The lee "push through sizer fits any standard press. The lee liquid alox tumble lube can be used for standard lube groove boolits like the one above. $13.09.

Total of $90.87 will get you started for one of your hand cannons. All you need is some lead and some gas checks IF you choose that mold. Shipping UPS ground is around 13 bucks to my door. You'll play he!! trying to find just what you want locally.
 
I've been reloading for several years now and love it. I'm not a tremendously high-volume shooter, but I enjoy the process and custom-tailored loads which reloading gives me access to.

For quite a while now I've had in the back of my mind to think about casting. It would give me tremendous satisfaction to be able to shoot greater quantities without being nagged by the cost of bullets. However, I'm not sure that the type and quantity of shooting I do justified the investment of time and money.

Much of my regular shooting is done either through gas guns or with suppressors, for both of which I understand lead is a no-no. Outside of these, I shoot 1911s (.45), 357 SIG, .44 Mag, and 9mm.

Here's the kicker: all but the .44 are regular carry guns, and I carry JHPs. I know that is it a BIG no-no to shoot jacketed after lead without cleaning between - does this mean that I'd have to clean all my pistols after each range session, no matter how little they were shot? (Don't get me wrong, I am not in the habit of letting dirty guns sit, but sometimes I only run two or three mags through a particular pistol during one range trip.)

I really, really, really like the idea of casting, but I just want to be sure it's worth me getting into. Many thanks for your wisdom.
here is a question similar to yours concerning shooting jacketed ammo after shooting lead. This is from 1911forum.com. The reply comes from the Wilson Combat Representative. I consider this to be a highly credible source considering the quality products and customer support they provide.


I practice with hard-cast projectiles. I was told long, long ago that after firing hard-cast, one of the best ways to "clean" the bore was to shoot a couple of jacketed bullets. The jacketed bullets would clean out the lead of the bore and minimize the need to run a bronze bore brush down the barrel, saving cleaning time and possible bore scarring from "over enthusiastic" bore scrubbing. It seems to work, but I would like your (and other members) opinion.

Very true, especially if the gun is still warmish. (Wilson Combat Representative)
 
If you use the correct size bullet, quality lube, and reasonable charges for lead there will be no leading issue.

I practice with hard-cast projectiles. I was told long, long ago that after firing hard-cast, one of the best ways to "clean" the bore was to shoot a couple of jacketed bullets. The jacketed bullets would clean out the lead of the bore and minimize the need to run a bronze bore brush down the barrel, saving cleaning time and possible bore scarring from "over enthusiastic" bore scrubbing. It seems to work, but I would like your (and other members) opinion.

Wilson may do it to their firearms all they wish. As for me, I'll stick with copper Chore Boy wrapped around a brush to clean my barrels. Barrel leading at it worse is nothing more than the begining of a bore obstruction, shooting it out does not seem wise to me. Barrel leading at its least is going to get ironed into the bore when shooting a jacketed bullet.

Do it if you wish, its your gun.

As far as shooting lead bullets in a "gas gun", I've got a U.S. Carbine that has 10's of thousands of rounds thru it and I've yet to dissamble the gas system. SOOOOoooooo?

Is casting worth it? If you shoot much at all, and have a source for lead, YOU-BET.
 
JC, my point was that Wilson Combat Rep does not say shooting a jacketed bullet does any harm as the OP was concerned about.

Wilson actually includes the chore boy cleaningmethod you refer to in cleaning a barrel that shoots cast bullets.
 
JC, my point was that Wilson Combat Rep does not say shooting a jacketed bullet does any harm as the OP was concerned about.

Yes, I understand, but I still do not recommend it or trust it. He may be a Wilson Combat Rep, but that does not mean he/she is the do all, end all, know all. Neither am I for that matter.

Best to you in the New Year!
 
Yes, I understand, but I still do not recommend it or trust it. He may be a Wilson Combat Rep, but that does not mean he/she is the do all, end all, know all. Neither am I for that matter.

I agree. I was told by a Glock Armor that shooting a jacketed bullet after lead to clean the lead out of the barrel was the worst thing you could do. I don't know if he was just referring to Glocks but I would imagine it would be true with most pistols.
 
Glocks and Kahrs use Polygonal rifling, and the recommendation is to not shoot jacketed bullets after having fired cast lead bullets without first cleaning the barrel.

I practice with lead in my Kahr, but cw carry it with jacketed bullets.

I don't know why I do that, because I think the cast lead bullets would be just as deadly as the jacketed bulelts. Maybe it's because the jacketed bullets look more deadly.;)
 
There is an old saying among experienced shooters that "You aren't reloading unless you're making your own bullets." I tend to agree because even if nothing else it's a great learning experience
 
Thanks all for the incredibly helpful posts. Snuffy, thanks for doing an initial equipment breakdown - that was incredibly helpful. I have decided to begin with .45 ACP in 200-grain, and actually am now in on a group buy for some MP molds over at castboolits.gunloads.com.

Managed to score my first 5-gallon bucket of wheel weights and almost handicapped myself trying to get it from the truck into the shop. Good Lord.

Now I'm researching how to smelt this stuff into ingots - since I'm cheap I'm thinking of going the turkey fryer/dutch oven route. Now I need to pick an ingot mold and perhaps thermometer! I can see how much money I'm "saving" already :) :)
 
Glocks and Kahrs use Polygonal rifling, and the recommendation is to not shoot jacketed bullets after having fired cast lead bullets without first cleaning the barrel.

Yes I understand the difference in barrels. How it was explained to me was as the jacketed bullet is fired and makes it's way down the barrel it will create a donut of lead in front of itself. If that jacketed bullet pushes past the donut of lead the only way for that to happen is to bulge the barrel. For me it is too easy to just clean the barrel myself and not have to take the chance of messing up my barrel.
 
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