Jackrabbit1957
Member
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2018
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- 2,875
I have used 409 for many years. I then wipe the bore with an oily patch. No rust or problems.
Ditch the Bore Butter.
I clean with windex. Swab the bore multiple times and it's sqeaky clean. Dry patch and oil patch, done. I always go back a couple days later and oil patch again to insure it's as clean as it looks. Warm water and Dawn work well too, just more messy. Always remember to dry patch and oil a couple times later.
I have used 409 for many years. I then wipe the bore with an oily patch. No rust or problems.
So you spray a patch with Windex, swab multiple times, then dry patches, then oiled patch?
Probably not too common in long guns (including muzzle loaders), but a lot of handguns have aluminum frames, and some rimfire pistols (such as the SR-22) may have aluminum slides.Do many guns have aluminum in them?
The receiver of the most popular rifle in America today (AR15) is generally made of aluminum.Do many guns have aluminum in them?
Probably several patches with windex... depending on how dirty the gun is.So you spray a patch with Windex, swab multiple times, then dry patches, then oiled patch?
Can I assume that anodizing is adequate protection?https://simplegreen.com/faqs/
... caution and common sense must be used: aluminum is a soft metal that easily corrodes with unprotected exposure to water. The aqueous-base and alkalinity of Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner can accelerate the corrosion process.
Therefore, contact times for unprotected or unpainted aluminum surfaces should be kept as brief as the job will allow - never for more than 10 minutes. Large cleaning jobs should be conducted in smaller-area stages to achieve lower contact time. Rinsing after cleaning should always be extremely thorough - paying special attention to flush out cracks and crevices to remove all Simple Green product residues. Unfinished, uncoated or unpainted aluminum cleaned with Simple Green products should receive some sort of protectant after cleaning to prevent oxidation.
It seems there are a multitude of ways to complicate a simple task. Hot water right out of the kitchen sink/bathtub/lavatory faucet will do the job. A tiny bit of what ever dish washing soap is available makes it do the job slightly quicker and the metal will dry almost instantly in either case. If you live where the humidity is very high you might need to take a hair dryer to it to facilitate drying. I've used this method for many years. I oil the inside of the barrel and apply Johnson's paste wax to the outside when it's clean. I have never had any rust problems.
Auto trans fluid, and acetone was used frequently as a thread release, also many of the high performance oils for autos is Auto trans derived. It's synthetic based and B/P compatible, but too much can quench powder, must be thoroughly removed from inside barrel and ignition areas before shooting.An acquaintance of mine used to soak his bp revolver in a bucket of warm water with a small amount of some kind of laundry detergent dissolved in it. Dont recall what kind. After soaking for a while he would run some kind of bore swab thru the barrel multiple times while it was still in the bucket and then used a toorh brush on some areas.
Then he rinsed it with hot water and dried it with a hair dryer. Not even a blow dryer. Some kind of thing that had a hose on it that went to a plastic contraption that was made to sit on ones head.
Once dry he had some kind of oil he swabbed onto the inside barrel and the external and other surfaces. I vaguely remember it was some kind of transmission fluid, but my memory from that long ago is kind of foggy.
He did not even remove the wooden grips. I think he had lacquered them or something so they were more or less waterproof.
It seemed kind of crazy to me fourty years ago but it also seemed to work.
Aluminum oxide is a very stable, inert and very hard substance. So if there's an uncompromised layer of anodizing over the entire piece of metal I would think that you're going to be hard pressed to find a cleaner that will cause damage.Can I assume that anodizing is adequate protection?
I just inherited an ASM 1860 Army Model and am trying to learn as much as possible before I fire it.
Using soapy water to clean them was a surprise to me. Why doesn't normal cleaning solutions like Hoppes No. 9 work? I am sure there is a reason, I just don't know what it is.
Thanks