Double Maduro
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Thanks for all the information you guys have given me. I knew I could count on you for help and advice.
DM
DM
Is this a good deal for a Makarov?
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Double Maduro
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OK,
I just got back from the shop.
Bulgarian Makarov Serial Number indicates the year is '87
Spare Mag
Holster (the one with the leather strap you have to pull to draw)
2 boxes of hollow point (Russian, the only kind they had)
Tool
Red Star grip
Used hard side case
Oregon fees,
Out the door, $206.
Now how do I get all of this freakin cosmoline off and out of it?
Guess I'll start boiling some water.
I just got back from the shop.
Bulgarian Makarov Serial Number indicates the year is '87
Spare Mag
Holster (the one with the leather strap you have to pull to draw)
2 boxes of hollow point (Russian, the only kind they had)
Tool
Red Star grip
Used hard side case
Oregon fees,
Out the door, $206.
Now how do I get all of this freakin cosmoline off and out of it?
Guess I'll start boiling some water.
alamo
Member
Be sure to take out the firing pin (btw, there is no firing pin spring) and extractor as cosmoline gets in there.
The extractor can be a little tricky the first time.
See the "detail stripping" link-
http://www.makarov.com/tech.html
The extractor can be a little tricky the first time.
See the "detail stripping" link-
http://www.makarov.com/tech.html
Double Maduro
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David4516,
I got it at Northwest Armory, over on McLoughlin.
They have 2 left.
I got it at Northwest Armory, over on McLoughlin.
They have 2 left.
Double Maduro
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Well,
2 hours in hot soapy water and most of the cosmoline came off, a little more came off with some cleaning.
I did a detail strip, got the directions at makarov.com, can't believe how simple this pistol is. I don't know when I will get to the range but I will let you know how it turns out.
DM
2 hours in hot soapy water and most of the cosmoline came off, a little more came off with some cleaning.
I did a detail strip, got the directions at makarov.com, can't believe how simple this pistol is. I don't know when I will get to the range but I will let you know how it turns out.
DM
Thanks for the info, I'll have to check it out. I won't have time for a few days though, I work and then this weekend I'm going camping... Hope that they are still there by then...
I've been thinking about getting a second Mak for some time, I'll need to be careful or I might end up spending some $ over there...
I've been thinking about getting a second Mak for some time, I'll need to be careful or I might end up spending some $ over there...
mainmech48
Member
Congrats on your purchase, DM. I think you'll find that these little pistols have a lot more going for them than just the low price by the time you've put those two boxes of ammo through it.
My Bulgie didn't come packed in cosmoline, so I didn't have to go through that mess with it. As something of a C&R junkie, I've had to deal with that task quite a bit.
FWIW in the future, the easiest way that I've found to do it quickly and thoroughly follows:
Buy a gallon of kerosene - DO NOT USE GASOLINE!!! There are other solvents for petroleum greases, I know. But kerosene is cheap, and not as likely to attack enamel or phosphate metal finishes or wood finishes as a lot of them. "Simple Green" has it's fans, but it's a lot more work, IME.
Most of the other stuff you'll need can be scavenged from your house and/or garage: a couple of old paint brushes, some rags and newspaper, an old coffee can, metal baking pan or other container. If you have one of those DIY oil change pans, use it.
A pair of petroleum-resistant vinyl or neoprene gloves (not absolutely vital, but nice), eye protection (home workshop safety goggles are fine), and your cleaning rod with a jag and brush of the proper size.
Take the whole mess outside to the garage, deck, or wherever it's well-ventilated and any spills or splatters won't be grounds for marital strife. Set up your work area to suit yourself.
Field strip the piece. Remove the stock or grips and set aside for now.
Pour some kerosene into your coffee can/cake pan/whatever. Put all of the metal parts that'll fit the container into it to soak. Check them after a few minutes and slosh them around to work the solvent into all of the recesses. Use the paint brush(es) to get it into the nooks and crannies as needed, and soak some more if necessary. As each piece comes clean, set it aside on some newspaper to drain. If you happen to have an air compressor and nozzle, you can speed this process up a lot.
For long arms, you'll need to hold the barreled action over your drain pan and use the brushes to slosh 'n scrub the outside. Make sure you get some into the bore and chamber (an old turkey baster is great here). Run your bore brush through the barrel and chamber until all the gunk is cleared.
Use your brushes and rags as necessary on the wood. Don't soak it, and wipe the excess solvent off quickly.
As you reassemble things, wipe or blow them off them thoroughly and apply lubricant or protectant as and where needed. I like WD-40.
It really takes longer to write than it generally does to do a good job on the average pistol, as detail-stripping is unnecessary in most cases. The kerosene will dissolve 99.8% of the cosmoline everywhere if you use it liberally and agitate things a bit to flush it through. An additional "plus" is that kerosene leaves a little "oily" residue on the metal when the volatiles evaporate rather than stripping it bare. You're a bunch less likely to have rust turn up later in hidden places with it than with any water-based cleaner or more-aggressive mineral solvents.
My Bulgie didn't come packed in cosmoline, so I didn't have to go through that mess with it. As something of a C&R junkie, I've had to deal with that task quite a bit.
FWIW in the future, the easiest way that I've found to do it quickly and thoroughly follows:
Buy a gallon of kerosene - DO NOT USE GASOLINE!!! There are other solvents for petroleum greases, I know. But kerosene is cheap, and not as likely to attack enamel or phosphate metal finishes or wood finishes as a lot of them. "Simple Green" has it's fans, but it's a lot more work, IME.
Most of the other stuff you'll need can be scavenged from your house and/or garage: a couple of old paint brushes, some rags and newspaper, an old coffee can, metal baking pan or other container. If you have one of those DIY oil change pans, use it.
A pair of petroleum-resistant vinyl or neoprene gloves (not absolutely vital, but nice), eye protection (home workshop safety goggles are fine), and your cleaning rod with a jag and brush of the proper size.
Take the whole mess outside to the garage, deck, or wherever it's well-ventilated and any spills or splatters won't be grounds for marital strife. Set up your work area to suit yourself.
Field strip the piece. Remove the stock or grips and set aside for now.
Pour some kerosene into your coffee can/cake pan/whatever. Put all of the metal parts that'll fit the container into it to soak. Check them after a few minutes and slosh them around to work the solvent into all of the recesses. Use the paint brush(es) to get it into the nooks and crannies as needed, and soak some more if necessary. As each piece comes clean, set it aside on some newspaper to drain. If you happen to have an air compressor and nozzle, you can speed this process up a lot.
For long arms, you'll need to hold the barreled action over your drain pan and use the brushes to slosh 'n scrub the outside. Make sure you get some into the bore and chamber (an old turkey baster is great here). Run your bore brush through the barrel and chamber until all the gunk is cleared.
Use your brushes and rags as necessary on the wood. Don't soak it, and wipe the excess solvent off quickly.
As you reassemble things, wipe or blow them off them thoroughly and apply lubricant or protectant as and where needed. I like WD-40.
It really takes longer to write than it generally does to do a good job on the average pistol, as detail-stripping is unnecessary in most cases. The kerosene will dissolve 99.8% of the cosmoline everywhere if you use it liberally and agitate things a bit to flush it through. An additional "plus" is that kerosene leaves a little "oily" residue on the metal when the volatiles evaporate rather than stripping it bare. You're a bunch less likely to have rust turn up later in hidden places with it than with any water-based cleaner or more-aggressive mineral solvents.
Double Maduro
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I took the Mak to the range today, what the heck, it was wednesday.
I took a box of Barnaul (sp) 95 gr hollow points, the only ammo the shop had.
I can't believe how this pistol shot. It is accurate and didn't miss a beat.
Some of you recommended a 19# return spring. How in the world do you cycle it? The spring already feels stronger than my Ruger P90. Maybe it is the fact that it is a new gun.
By the way, when I shake it I can't hear anything rattle, kind of nice.
I have a new tool and if it continues to perform like this, I see a long and happy relationship.
I will continue to carry my P90 but when the weather calls for something a little smaller and lighter it will most likely be the MAK.
Thanks to all who told me to go for it, I am happy.
Now for recommendations on ammo, anyone?
Well for carry ammo, try to find some Cor-bon, it's no longer made but still can be found. Alot of the surplus HP ammo will also work and according to Stephens fine report, the Brown bear 115gr seems to expand quite large. AVOID "silver bear" 120 gr because it jams up in the mags and will be unreliable, everything else should be fine such as all Barnal brands which seems to be the same but just labeled different. I get Ram HP for $5 a box by the half case and use it for most my range time with the maks.
Also DO NOT use WD-40 on your guns! It's a very poor lgun ube and gums up if stored in a gun over time.
Enjoy! Maks are great, Bren
Also DO NOT use WD-40 on your guns! It's a very poor lgun ube and gums up if stored in a gun over time.
Enjoy! Maks are great, Bren
alamo
Member
Double Maduor, If you shake it back & forth, you can sometimes hear the firing pin rattling.
Might want to get the magazine loader from Makarov.com, you'll find it is much easier to load using it.
Here's some ammo info., I use Cor-Bon for carry, but as previously stated, it is not made anymore:
http://www.goldenloki.com/ammo/gel/9x18/gel9x18.htm
Might want to get the magazine loader from Makarov.com, you'll find it is much easier to load using it.
Here's some ammo info., I use Cor-Bon for carry, but as previously stated, it is not made anymore:
http://www.goldenloki.com/ammo/gel/9x18/gel9x18.htm
I normally only shoot hand-loads in my Mak, since it is so cheap and easy to re-load for. I did try a box of Winchester 95 gr FMJ on Monday, and it fucntioned 100%.
http://www.outdoormarksman.com/merc...&Product_Code=99176&Category_Code=CP-100-918M
By the way, the guys who run this website are Oregon based and have a really cool little ammo shop in salem, you might want to check it out...
In case you are interested, here are the hand-loads I use:
Plinking:
Bullet = 95 gr Lead
Powder = 3.0 gr Red-Dot or 2.8 gr 700-X
Primer = Winchester Small Pistol
COL = 0.965 inches
Velocity = About 800 FPS give or take a little depending on load
Carry:
Bullet = 95 gr Hornady XTP
Powder = 4.1 gr Bullseye
Primer = CCI Small Pistol
COL = 0.965 Inches
Velocity = 1025 FPS
I have done some informal expansion testing and I've been very impressed with the XTP. I believe you can buy factory Hornady ammo with this bullet, but if the rumors are ture it's about 100 FPS slower than my handloads.
Sometimes I'll use Speer 95 gr TMJ instead of the XTP for carry when I'm out camping. There are some Cougars around here, and if I run into one I'd like to get a little more penatration. Also would be better in case I run into a wild dog or a Bear, but I wouldn't call 9mm Makarov a "anti-bear' caliber...
Speer makes Gold-Dots for the Mak, but I have not had good luck with them. They function OK, but again velocity isn't as good as it is with the XTPs...
http://www.outdoormarksman.com/merc...&Product_Code=99176&Category_Code=CP-100-918M
By the way, the guys who run this website are Oregon based and have a really cool little ammo shop in salem, you might want to check it out...
In case you are interested, here are the hand-loads I use:
Plinking:
Bullet = 95 gr Lead
Powder = 3.0 gr Red-Dot or 2.8 gr 700-X
Primer = Winchester Small Pistol
COL = 0.965 inches
Velocity = About 800 FPS give or take a little depending on load
Carry:
Bullet = 95 gr Hornady XTP
Powder = 4.1 gr Bullseye
Primer = CCI Small Pistol
COL = 0.965 Inches
Velocity = 1025 FPS
I have done some informal expansion testing and I've been very impressed with the XTP. I believe you can buy factory Hornady ammo with this bullet, but if the rumors are ture it's about 100 FPS slower than my handloads.
Sometimes I'll use Speer 95 gr TMJ instead of the XTP for carry when I'm out camping. There are some Cougars around here, and if I run into one I'd like to get a little more penatration. Also would be better in case I run into a wild dog or a Bear, but I wouldn't call 9mm Makarov a "anti-bear' caliber...
Speer makes Gold-Dots for the Mak, but I have not had good luck with them. They function OK, but again velocity isn't as good as it is with the XTPs...
Stephen A. Camp
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Hello. Here's the chronograph data I have on some various factory rounds out of the Mak:
9x18mm Makarov (Commercial Bulgarian Makarov Pistol):
TCW 95 gr FMJ Ave. Vel. = 1043 ft/sec
Fiocchi 95 gr FMJ Ave. Vel. = 1018 ft/sec (ES: 28 ft/sec)
CorBon 95 gr JHP +P Ave. Vel. = 1098 ft/sec
Hornady 95 gr XTP Ave. Vel. = 937 ft/sec
9x18mm Makarov (East German Makarov):
LVE 115 gr JHP Ave. Vel. = 1025 ft/sec (ES:12/SD:5.38)!
Sellier & Bellot 95 gr ball Ave. Vel. = 924 ft/sec (ES:264/SD:81)!
Barnaul 95 gr ball Ave. Vel. = 1058 ft/sec (ES:45/SD:13)!
Fiocchi 95 gr ball Ave. Vel. = 1020 ft/sec (ES:89/SD: 32)
Corbon 95 gr JHP Ave. Vel. = 1100 ft/sec (ES:29/SD: 12)
Hornady 95 gr XTP Ave. Vel. = 984 ft/sec (ES:168/SD:60) HV:1102 ft/sec, LV: 933 ft/sec
(On another day)
Brown Bear LVE 115 JHP Ave. Vel. = 1007 ft/sec (ES:33/SD: 9.69)
Barnaul 95 gr JHP Ave. Vel. = 1030 ft./sec (ES: 66/SD:20.37)
Corbon 95 gr JHP +P Ave. Vel. = 1088 ft/sec (ES: 53/SD: 26.85)
Hornady 95 gr XTP Ave. Vel. = 938 ft/sec (ES: 63/SD: 21.35)
9x18mm Makarov (Commercial Bulgarian Makarov Pistol):
TCW 95 gr FMJ Ave. Vel. = 1043 ft/sec
Fiocchi 95 gr FMJ Ave. Vel. = 1018 ft/sec (ES: 28 ft/sec)
CorBon 95 gr JHP +P Ave. Vel. = 1098 ft/sec
Hornady 95 gr XTP Ave. Vel. = 937 ft/sec
9x18mm Makarov (East German Makarov):
LVE 115 gr JHP Ave. Vel. = 1025 ft/sec (ES:12/SD:5.38)!
Sellier & Bellot 95 gr ball Ave. Vel. = 924 ft/sec (ES:264/SD:81)!
Barnaul 95 gr ball Ave. Vel. = 1058 ft/sec (ES:45/SD:13)!
Fiocchi 95 gr ball Ave. Vel. = 1020 ft/sec (ES:89/SD: 32)
Corbon 95 gr JHP Ave. Vel. = 1100 ft/sec (ES:29/SD: 12)
Hornady 95 gr XTP Ave. Vel. = 984 ft/sec (ES:168/SD:60) HV:1102 ft/sec, LV: 933 ft/sec
(On another day)
Brown Bear LVE 115 JHP Ave. Vel. = 1007 ft/sec (ES:33/SD: 9.69)
Barnaul 95 gr JHP Ave. Vel. = 1030 ft./sec (ES: 66/SD:20.37)
Corbon 95 gr JHP +P Ave. Vel. = 1088 ft/sec (ES: 53/SD: 26.85)
Hornady 95 gr XTP Ave. Vel. = 938 ft/sec (ES: 63/SD: 21.35)
mainmech48
Member
Bren: I agree that WD-40 isn't a good lubricant, but it is a very good penetrating protectant for metal surfaces. Especially those that are usually covered by the stock. I spray it on a swab or patch and apply it liberally to those areas, let the solvent vehicle evaporate, and wipe the excess off with a rag. It seems to get into the "pores" of the metal to leave a moisture barrier that lasts for a long time. I've used it in this capacity for many years with great success, particularly on "Parkerized" surfaces.
For long-term protection on blued, "French Gray", or "white" metal, I prefer a specialty hard wax product like "Renaissance Wax". It works on wood, metal, leather - just about any smooth material - well enough to be used by many museums on their extremely valuable antiques and relics subjected to extended storage or display.
It's been my experience that WD-40 also works very well at displacing water. After a day spent hunting in drizzling rain or snow, a quick spray-and-wipe with it will save you some potentially nasty surprises when you get home after the trip and strip your rifle or shotgun for thorough cleaning.
Each to their own. It works for me.
I haven't done any real "scientific" testing on 9x18 HPs. I don't have the resources for the large quantities of suitable media (gelatin, clay, duct putty, etc.) to do it right.
From what I can gather from semi-casual testing in water (horse tank and gallon jugs), the Cor-Bons and Hornadys were the only ones that showed reliable enough expansion for me to trust my Personal Favorite Behind to. The Barnauls were inconsistent when samples from two different lots were tried: some worked nicely and some didn't. For casual shooting and practice it makes no difference, but when I carry the Mak it's loaded with Hornadys because I can't find Cor-Bons in 9x18 locally.
For long-term protection on blued, "French Gray", or "white" metal, I prefer a specialty hard wax product like "Renaissance Wax". It works on wood, metal, leather - just about any smooth material - well enough to be used by many museums on their extremely valuable antiques and relics subjected to extended storage or display.
It's been my experience that WD-40 also works very well at displacing water. After a day spent hunting in drizzling rain or snow, a quick spray-and-wipe with it will save you some potentially nasty surprises when you get home after the trip and strip your rifle or shotgun for thorough cleaning.
Each to their own. It works for me.
I haven't done any real "scientific" testing on 9x18 HPs. I don't have the resources for the large quantities of suitable media (gelatin, clay, duct putty, etc.) to do it right.
From what I can gather from semi-casual testing in water (horse tank and gallon jugs), the Cor-Bons and Hornadys were the only ones that showed reliable enough expansion for me to trust my Personal Favorite Behind to. The Barnauls were inconsistent when samples from two different lots were tried: some worked nicely and some didn't. For casual shooting and practice it makes no difference, but when I carry the Mak it's loaded with Hornadys because I can't find Cor-Bons in 9x18 locally.
Double Maduro
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David4516
So did you buy one?
So did you buy one?
I didn't get to go yet. A friend and I were going to go yesterday, but to make a long story short we had a bit of a car accident(we are okay, and so is the car) and didn't make it. Were are going to try again tommarow, I'll keep you posted...
Ok, I finaly made it over to the Armory!
They still have 2 Maks left. I didn't buy one, I was very tempted, but I've got bills to pay, you guys know how it is...
This is the first time I've been there, and I was expecting them to charge an arm and a leg for most their stuff, but it looked like they had pretty reasonable prices, particularly on their reloading components. They also sell AA gunpowders, I haven't been able to find that powder anyplace else in the area...
Anyway, I'll have to stop by the Armory from time to time, and if those Maks are still there on a day when I have some money burning a whole in my pocket, I'll get one...
They still have 2 Maks left. I didn't buy one, I was very tempted, but I've got bills to pay, you guys know how it is...
This is the first time I've been there, and I was expecting them to charge an arm and a leg for most their stuff, but it looked like they had pretty reasonable prices, particularly on their reloading components. They also sell AA gunpowders, I haven't been able to find that powder anyplace else in the area...
Anyway, I'll have to stop by the Armory from time to time, and if those Maks are still there on a day when I have some money burning a whole in my pocket, I'll get one...
Double Maduro
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I know how it is exactly.
Were there prices good on the reloading stuff? I am thinking I will have to start reloading soon so I can afford to eat.
Were there prices good on the reloading stuff? I am thinking I will have to start reloading soon so I can afford to eat.
I didn't look at their reloading tools (for example, presses and such) but their components were a pretty good deal (brass, bullets, primers, that sort of thing).
A good place to get reloading stuff online:
http://www.midwayusa.com/
Bi-Mart also has some good deals, I know because I used to work there...
A good place to get reloading stuff online:
http://www.midwayusa.com/
Bi-Mart also has some good deals, I know because I used to work there...
Double Maduro
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The Mak is doing just fine. I am amazed at the quality of this little gun and have been biting my tongue so I don't tell too many people about them, I may want another one someday.
I have put a box of Barnaul through it without any problems at all.
DM
I have put a box of Barnaul through it without any problems at all.
DM
Just out of curiosity, does anybody know of any shops in OK that might have Maks in stock? I have read a lot about them, and am thinking I would like to get one, but it would be kind of nice to have actually touched one before I buy it, you know? I have checked a couple of places, but no luck so far.....
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