I've Never Handloaded Before

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Does the hammer nose have to be relieved to let such a long cartridge chamber in the Rolling Block?
Ken Waters talked about that on the .45 RCBS which was shortened somewhat from Norma Basic.
 
Hot Water?!? here a stupid question, won’t that rust?
I used to clean my 50 cal BP front stuffer rifle next to the camp fire with hot soapy water, then rinse with boiling water. The barrel was hot and dried almost instantly, then a patch with oil down the bore, and wipe down the outside with an oily rag. NEVER a spec of rust. HOT water is the key.
It had a hooked breach so the barrel came out of the stock by just releasing a wedge and tilting it up.
 
I've been shooting BP muzzleloading weapons almost all my life
kje54, the title of this thread, "I've Never Handloaded Before" is a little misleading. If you've loaded BP muzzleloaders, you already know the basics. Loading BP cartridges is not all that different - you just have to at least partially resize the cases (so they'll hold the bullets firmly) and you prime before putting the powder in. The principle of not leaving dead air space between your powder charge and your bullet is the same, as is the principle that the exact amount of black powder used is unimportant.:)
 
kje54, the title of this thread, "I've Never Handloaded Before" is a little misleading. If you've loaded BP muzzleloaders, you already know the basics. Loading BP cartridges is not all that different - you just have to at least partially resize the cases (so they'll hold the bullets firmly) and you prime before putting the powder in. The principle of not leaving dead air space between your powder charge and your bullet is the same, as is the principle that the exact amount of black powder used is unimportant.:)
Maybe I should have said I've never handloaded metallic cartridges before. I've loaded hundreds of paper cartridges where the primer was the percussion cap placed on the nipple last, just before firing. Also being a reenactor probably 90% of those were simply powder cartridges as event organizers and fellow reenactors take a dim view of live rounds being used at said events.......... The other 10% constituted range rounds and fake rounds (filled with sand) for display purposes.
 
I'm going to chime in on another aspect of new to reloading 45-70... I also haven't reloaded metallic cartridges before but done a lot of paper cartridges for my six-guns... I recently acquired an original Springfield Trapdoor, finally got BP rounds from Buffalo Arms and now the Lee kit is on the way... My question is would it be acceptable to use up my pyrodex for these shells and save the Real BP for my other guns or does it make a difference at all??? I don't use it in my front stuffers so I have like 3 lbs just sitting around as an emergency stash...
 
I'm going to chime in on another aspect of new to reloading 45-70... I also haven't reloaded metallic cartridges before but done a lot of paper cartridges for my six-guns... I recently acquired an original Springfield Trapdoor, finally got BP rounds from Buffalo Arms and now the Lee kit is on the way... My question is would it be acceptable to use up my pyrodex for these shells and save the Real BP for my other guns or does it make a difference at all??? I don't use it in my front stuffers so I have like 3 lbs just sitting around as an emergency stash...
Been doing some more research on BP loads and yes, supposedly Pyrodex RS is what is recommended but I have read any Pyrodex (other than large pellets) will work. Supposedly you load the cartridge the same way you would if using real black powder.
 
Load it (Pyro) to the same volume, compressed by the same thickness (~30-60 thou)
of the over-powder card(s) as you seat/crimp the bullet ... just as before.
Walk away.....


Added note: Make sure you're using soft BP lube (or 2-1 Crisco/Beeswax in a pinch)
 
I have no interest in hand loading beyond that. That said what I'm looking for is "insert part A into part B, measure part C to this amount then insert part C into part B........... etc." I could care less how different loads work, I want a basic, generic load to plink with, nothing more, nothing less.
Allow me to reiterate: learn the lingo and proper procedures, first.
kinda like many of you would be if I started computer geek talk (Geekenese).
Imagine trying to write an app in dotNET without ever learning anything about coding or logic, figuring you've used a computer so how hard can programming be?
By your own example. I gave it back to you in "Geekenese" but, my suggestion still gets poo-poo'ed and ignored. So be it.
 
Been doing some more research on BP loads and yes, supposedly Pyrodex RS is what is recommended but I have read any Pyrodex (other than large pellets) will work. Supposedly you load the cartridge the same way you would if using real black powder.
Stuff it full, clamp on a bullet, seat it until you hear the "crunch" and crimp it hard so it doesn't move, then go to the range and let'er fly.
Tab A into Slot B complete.
Good luck.
 
My question is would it be acceptable to use up my pyrodex for these shells and save the Real BP for my other guns or does it make a difference at all???
Sure! Pyrodex will work - at least it works in my .45-110, so I'd bet dollars to donuts it will work in a .45-70.
It's been a while since I used Pyrodex in my BPCR, but it seems like it compresses more than genuine black powder. Just like with black powder though, make sure there's no dead air space left in your case after your bullet is seated.
I like real black powder in my BPCR. So I do the opposite - I use Pyrodex for my muzzle loader, and save my real black powder for my .45-110. But don't let my personal preference sway you.:thumbup:
 
Sure! Pyrodex will work - at least it works in my .45-110, so I'd bet dollars to donuts it will work in a .45-70.
It's been a while since I used Pyrodex in my BPCR, but it seems like it compresses more than genuine black powder. Just like with black powder though, make sure there's no dead air space left in your case after your bullet is seated.
I like real black powder in my BPCR. So I do the opposite - I use Pyrodex for my muzzle loader, and save my real black powder for my .45-110. But don't let my personal preference sway you.:thumbup:
Mostly I was just thinking of a way to use up the pyrodex since I picked it up when there was no BP to be had and hate to see it go to waste just sitting there... I prefer Black but I'll try out both types... Thanks!
 
I didn’t read the whole thread but am I the only one who caught the OP saying range ammo was cheap enough not to reload? Where are you again? I feel a road trip coming on.
 
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