J Frame vs K Frame

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chaco

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Is there that much difference for you when carrying a K frame vs J frame. I thinking of getting a K frame for EDC. As I'm getting older it is getting more difficult to handle the recoil of the J frame when practicing. (Even 50 Rounds is getting tough).
 
My carry gun is a S&W Model 65 with a 3" barrel. That's a K frame.

I've found the trick is to go with a smaller barrel then the 4" standard. My 3" barrel gun is so much easier to conceal then a 4" barrel gun. You wouldn't think losing an inch of barrel would make that much of a difference, but it does.

You'll also probably find that the K frame is much easier to shoot well under stress. The better grip and extra heft make a difference.

I carry mine in an Alessi Talon clip-on IWB holster in front of the right hip. While it's not quite as convenient as dropping a J frame in the front pocket, I can just clip the holster to my belt and pull a T-shirt over it real quick before I leave the house. Barrel length is critical for carry in that location though. I couldn't get a 4" gun to work in that spot.

Hunt up a nice 3" K frame smith and you'll be surprised how well it works.
 
Yes there is.

About 15 oz, or nearly a pound in a snub-nose steel gun. (Model 36 vis Model 19)

That added weight is noticable, not to mention the added bulk of the bigger gun.

If recoil is a problem during practice, how about padded shooting gloves, or oversize rubber grips, or wadcutter target ammo?

rc
 
If recoil is a problem during practice, how about padded shooting gloves, or oversize rubber grips, or wadcutter target ammo?

+1.
All are a whole lot cheaper than a new gun. Unless your just dying to get a new gun. :)

I know you're just speaking about the problem at the range but my vote would definately be the new grips since those stay with the gun all the time. The shooting gloves definantly won't be on in a SD senario, most likely neither will the target load WC's. Not that you can't use all three at the range but my point is the grips will really make a difference.

David
 
Chaco,

If you're carrying in a proper belt holster, the k-frame is not harder to carry than the j. For such tricks as front pocket, cowboy boot, back pocket, etc., j-frame is pushing the limit, and k-frame might not work at all.

For shooting, at least for my big biscuit hooks, the extra size of the k-frame gun makes things much more pleasant and accurate.

Hope that helps!

LBS
 
The shooting gloves definantly won't be on in a SD senario,
I agree completely.
But during a SD senerio, recoil will not be noticed, or a major or minor concern at the time, I betcha.

rc
 
I've carried a gun daily for about 35 years. Carrying in an OWB holster I see no real difference in carrying a J or K frame. Yes the K frame is about a pound more but I don't feel that's a significant problem (if any).

The J frame is better:

1. In a pocket holster
2. In an ankle holster (although I know some really big guys that carry K frames there).

Other than those two instances the K frame is better. What kind of ammo do you carry in the J frame? If you carry Rhino Roller, Elephant Hunter +P+++++ loads that could be your problem. I carry factory 148 wadcutters in my J frame (that is a topic for anther discussion) and feel okay with that.

90% of the time I carry a 2 1/2" Model 66 with 158 gr magnums or a Model 60 with wadcutters or both. Both have Pachmyr Compact grips. A J frame can be painful with the standard grips.

I'm not a fan of using gloves, grips or anything else you don't normally use to practice with.
 
I agree that if you can find a 3" K-frame, get it. Other than that, have you looked at the Detective Special from Colt?
Nice gun in the middle of K and J sizes.
Steve
 
I sure like my k-frames for shooting. Easy handling and very accurate. Never have carried one, but I suppose an IWB holster would work pretty well.

I like carrying my j-frame. Compact and light, it's a go-anywhere weapon. Tough to shoot it accurately at anything more than a few feet away, though. Having a lasergrip helps a lot with that.
 
(Carl Levitian) Try to find a 2 inch model 10 or 64. They carry almost as well as a J frame, but shoot great.

Best advice offered. A snub model 10 or 64 is only a bit larger than a J-frame and gives you 1 extra shot. It's a little too big for pocket carry, but for IWB carry would be great.
 
I prefer the Kahr P-9 as an easy to shoot alternative to the J-frame !

Carries better, holds more rounds, easier to reload and shoots better !

What's not to like?
 
David E said:
What's not to like?
But it's not a revolver :neener:

Mike

P.S. I like Ruger Speed Six (same size as K frame M13) when I can conceal it. Otherwise it's Detective special or M640 IWB or M442 in the pocket.
 
I shot a snub nose Model 10 and it was a pleasure to shoot compared to my M638 or M642. What I did was buy a M640 which weighs 24oz for practice instead of shooting a 15oz revolver all day. It helped a lot but I don't like the added weight in my front pocket so I still carry my M642.

If you can find a snub nose K frame and carry it on your belt that would be a great SD weapon IMO and it probably wouldn't hurt your hand. (like I said above, the M10 was a pleasure to shoot)
 
thank you everyone for the great info. You've given me quite a few options to look at.
 
If for some reason it MUST be a revolver.....

Consider the Colt Detective Special or lightweight Cobra/Agent.

Also consider a 2" S&W Model 12 with round butt. This is the lightweight version of the Model 10.

One advantage to the larger guns is that they have larger parts. This increases mechanical leverage for a better, easier trigger pull.

.
 
One advantage to the larger guns is that they have larger parts. This increases mechanical leverage for a better, easier trigger pull.



Another advantage is the larger grip that spreads the recoil over a larger area. M12s have been out of production for some time.
 
One more option- get a J-frame in .32 H&R Magnum. I replaced my 442 with a 432 and find I can shoot it much better and with less pain.
 
I've got a 340M&P and I carry it on the belt. I shoot low level magnums in it and find them controlable and not that unpleasant.

I'm kicking it to BUG status and getting a k or L frame for belt carry.

It's not the weight or the recoil that's the problem. It's the trigger. A j-frame will never have the kind of trigger that a larger frame revolver can have.

There is a totally different spring system involved and there isn't a whole lot that can be done on a j frame other than smooth it up a bit. If you lighten the springs, it will probably be undependable for carry. The double action portion runs at least 15# and sometimes 18#. The single action portion isn't too bad at around 6#. But it stacks badly - being a j-frame.

Staging the trigger and firing basically single action works for acuracy. But that's not a good idea for defensive shooting. The larger frames pull through continuously much better and lighter for quick accurate shooting without staging the trigger.

Try them both and you'll see the difference. A k-frame with a trigger job will run rings around any j-frame for self defence except at very close yardage IMO.

My j-frame has literally 6 or 7,000 clicks on it and is as smooth as they come. It's nowhere near as smooth as virtually any larger frame Smith on the shelf.

Combine those factors with heavier weight for the larger frames equalling quicker shot recovery and more accuracy and the larger frame becomes a better carry gun by far - IF we are talking belt carry.
 
If I find a 2" round butt Model 12, I'm buying it !

A very under appreciated revolver if there ever was one.

.
 
Thanks everyone for the great information. I will be carrying the gun IWB appendix position. I'm going to start the hunt for a K frame. This is a great forum, thanks to all that have posted.
 
For appendix carry, make sure you stick with a 3" or 2" barrel.

I've found that the longer barrels just don't work in that position, in my experience.
 
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