It's not as bad as some seem to make it out to be. After you do it a couple times you'll ask yourself what was so hard about assembling the 5 pieces. As mentioned You tube has some very good video's.
Just how bad is the Ruger Mark III to field strip??
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It is harder than some other guns. It isn't a 1911 or Glock, and it takes a few simple tools.
Once you understand how the parts interact, it isn't all that hard.
Once you understand how the parts interact, it isn't all that hard.
Wow, this problem is WAYYYYY overblown. It's a gun. It comes apart like a gun. Some guns are easier, some are harder. This one is not that bad, at all.
The receiver and grip go together solid as a rock. That takes some sturdy and nicely fitting parts and a little bit of force to achieve. It's worth it.
To be completely sure, there is nothing fiddly or annoying about the process once you understand it. Well, the only fiddly part is if the pin is an overly tight fit - and that's just a parts tolerance thing easily addressed with sandpaper. But it's not like some guns where you're trying to pop back springs and clips and trying to get the lid on before everything falls out. You don't need any special tools. It's very, very straightforward and dead simple. And your chance of losing or bending a spring or part during a field strip is next to zero.
Detail strip? Yeah, that's pretty fiddly. But nothing short of a modern strikerfire handgun that closely copies the Glock isn't.
The receiver and grip go together solid as a rock. That takes some sturdy and nicely fitting parts and a little bit of force to achieve. It's worth it.
To be completely sure, there is nothing fiddly or annoying about the process once you understand it. Well, the only fiddly part is if the pin is an overly tight fit - and that's just a parts tolerance thing easily addressed with sandpaper. But it's not like some guns where you're trying to pop back springs and clips and trying to get the lid on before everything falls out. You don't need any special tools. It's very, very straightforward and dead simple. And your chance of losing or bending a spring or part during a field strip is next to zero.
Detail strip? Yeah, that's pretty fiddly. But nothing short of a modern strikerfire handgun that closely copies the Glock isn't.
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Bigfatdave, what tools?....
Never needed any tool other than a little something to pull the main spring back with.
Never needed any tool other than a little something to pull the main spring back with.
Many don't require anything but what you mentioned.
But if you try to take down one that is super tight, you will need some (very) simple tools.
The simple tools here are a wooden dowel, or a screwdriver, or a rod, or something/anything with which to pull/push on the backstrap thingy (or use as a punch to push the pin, directly) to get the pin in/out. And a plastic mallet, or a block of wood, or just a solid wood surface like a workbench or a floorboard to knock the receiver off the grip frame and to tap it back on all the way. A smack with the palm of your hand will work on most of these guns, but there's the oddball that's really tight.
There's nothing needed that you can't find lying around, anywhere.
But if you try to take down one that is super tight, you will need some (very) simple tools.
The simple tools here are a wooden dowel, or a screwdriver, or a rod, or something/anything with which to pull/push on the backstrap thingy (or use as a punch to push the pin, directly) to get the pin in/out. And a plastic mallet, or a block of wood, or just a solid wood surface like a workbench or a floorboard to knock the receiver off the grip frame and to tap it back on all the way. A smack with the palm of your hand will work on most of these guns, but there's the oddball that's really tight.
There's nothing needed that you can't find lying around, anywhere.
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Yeah, I guess I didn't include whacking they back of the receiver on the top of my bench as tool usage.
nothing complicated or specialized
A non-marring punch and hammer for the bolt-stop pin
Something to pop the MSH latch out with
A non-marring hammer or padded hammer to get the upper on and off the lower
This can be accomplished many ways:
Nicer toolset:
dead-blow hammer or mallet
little bitty plastic pick for MSH latch
brass punch
Common toolset:
the hammer from your toolbox, padded with whatever you find around
a punch from wherever
a small screwdriver or spent shell for prying
Ghetto toolset: (I actually used this set on my uncle's gun while on vacation!)
large steel-toed boot as padded hammer
broken chopstick, one piece was the punch, the other was the prying tool
weblance
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I learned on a Mark II in the late 80s. I now have 3 Mark III 22/45s and after removing the mag disconnect, its just as easy as the Mark II. The mag disco is the real hangup with the Mark III. If you really have dificulty, get the Magestic Arms Speed Strip kit. I got them for all 3 of my 22/45s. Not because I have trouble, but because the kit has the mag disconnect removal bushing, a new hammer which improved the trigger tremendously, and the Speed Strip parts for the same cost as the Volquartsen parts. I do still strip it the old way.
I just recently got one as a surprise bday gift and getting it apart was pretty straight forward, getting it back together was the tough part. That's mainly due to how tight everything is. I would say you should pick one up if you want one. They are great guns and every collection has a place for one...
installing that kit will require a detail strip ...
... after which you'll wonder what the big deal about the field strip was
I like mine when I'm shooting it... no malfunctions to date (that weren't ammo's fault), and accurate... But when I'm cleaning it, I just get filled with rage. I'm not even bad at field stripping it... I'm just offended by it.
I found the user's manual instructions were all I needed for my three Ruger .22s That and a gem clip to pull the little lever out of the grip.
First time reassembly is a bit of a PITA, but after a very few times it becomes a non problem.
First time reassembly is a bit of a PITA, but after a very few times it becomes a non problem.
Don't be intimidated by it. My MKIII still takes a soft mallet to come apart after thousands of rounds, but my MKII comes apart like butter.
Remove the magazine disconnect and it becomes a few less steps and you'll get a better trigger. There are several bushings to accomplish this (BAM Bushing, Sam Lam Bushing).
Remove the magazine disconnect and it becomes a few less steps and you'll get a better trigger. There are several bushings to accomplish this (BAM Bushing, Sam Lam Bushing).
If you follow the directions the first few times it will become second nature. I sold my mk3 a couple years ago but I could field strip one today if it were in front if me. There is really just one step towards the end of reassembly that is kinda odd.
Getting the hammer strut to dangle freely is easier if you clean the hammer strut pivot point, by the way.
A good blast of CLP in there followed by air and liquid wrench cerflon spray is my preferred method.
Of course, if you don't understand how the hammer and mainspring interact, none of that will make sense ... and then the problem becomes obvious
A good blast of CLP in there followed by air and liquid wrench cerflon spray is my preferred method.
Of course, if you don't understand how the hammer and mainspring interact, none of that will make sense ... and then the problem becomes obvious
Hey, guys, there really is no need to remove the barrel and receiver from the grip frame for normal cleaning; just remove the bolt and clean with a brush.
Jim
Jim
I have a Mark II and a 22/45. They are a a little confusing the first few times, but pretty simple after that. If you have any trouble check out Rimfirecentral.com. Those guys can tell you anything you need to know about any rimfire.
JimK is correct...I will add to what he said. If you don't over lube it, it won't need cleaning that often and won't be hard to clean. I do not even use oil. I use Hornady One Shot case lube on the bolt. I run mine thousands and thousands of rounds without cleaning all, except for maybe running a Boresnake thru them if I notice my groups opening up. The One Shot doesn't get all gummed up with powder residue like gun oil. A dry toothbrush will generally knock all the residue off.
Not hard at all,,,take off the plastic grips and spray it down with Gun Scrubber. Ok, I am lazy and scared to do it and never needed to.
Blue68f100
Member
Once you've done it a few times it's pretty easy. The first time will always be the hardest. I only detail clean mine every 2k+ rounds. I remove the bolt and clean what I can without removing the barrel from the receiver. Mine still needs a blow from a dead blow hammer to get it apart, mfg 2006. Keep all oil away from the breach area and it want gum up nearly as fast. This applies to solvents around the LCI (loaded chamber indicator). If you get this sticking it will case feeding problems. I only use one drop of oil on the bolt.
The "tricks" are ALL in the manual that comes with the pistol, or can be found in umpteen numbers of Youtube videos giving detailed instructions to dissasemble and reassemble.
There are also easy instructions to remove the magazine disconnect and make it more like the superior MK II so the mag doesn't have to be re-inserted during the process.
OilyPablo
Member
First time a little tricky to get back together, after that no biggy. Most times I clean it pretty well without stripping it. Easy and still going strong.
I agree.
The last time I reassembled my Mk II I did it in front of the computer. It made it a breeze.
weblance
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bigfatdave said:
To install the Speed Strip, you DO NOT have to detail strip, just remove the mainspring housing, and replace the original pin with the new, Two Piece, pin. IF you want to remove the magazine disconnect, AND enjoy the improved trigger capability, THEN you need to detail strip. To just install the speed strip, there is no detail strip needed.
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