Giterboosted
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So I'm a little hazy, what does the firing pin (shwartz?) safety do? And why should I remove it?
Kimber vs springer
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Giterboosted said:
That's not an easy question to answer for you. My approach was to change out just about everything for my own reasons. If you buy the Kimber with plans to change parts, I suggest shooting at least a few hundred rounds through it to see how if functions before changing anything to get a baseline. That's what I did with my Kimber and it ran perfectly out of the box with four types of factory ammunition. Some upgrades give immediate felt improvement e.g. grip safety, hammer/sear, thumb safety, mag release and grips. Others are not so easy to measure. I use my TEII for USPSA matches so I didn't want to experiment. There's enough to worry about without adding "reliability" to the mix. I wanted to improve the TEII to learn about the 1911 platform and to increase the chances of thousands of trouble free rounds. Currently, I'm approaching 1,500 flawless rounds under match conditions so I have a long way to go, but so far I couldn't be happier with how the TEII is performing.
Any quality parts will suffice. I have an Ed Brown SFC and just ordered a SF so I wanted to stick with mostly EB parts. I would start by changing the grips, grip safety, thumb safety, slide stop, hammer/sear (drop in from Cylinder & Slide is a good idea), disconnector, sear spring, and remove the firing pin safety (check for legal ramifications if used for self defense). I would also change all the pins/springs that come in the Ed Brown frame rebuild kit. Then consider changing the extractor and possibly the ejector.
These are the parts that I changed in my Kimber TEII in addition to removing the FPS.
Wilson Combat Recoil Spring 18-1/2 lb
Wilson Combat 1-Piece Full Length Recoil Spring Guide Rod with Recoil Spring Plug 1911 Government Stainless Steel
Kimber "tactical bump" grip safety
Ed Brown Frame Rebuild Kit 1911 Government, Commander Blue
Ed Brown Hardcore Slide Stop 1911 45 ACP Blue
Ed Brown Hardcore Extractor 1911 45 ACP Series 70 Blue
Ed Brown Hammer Strut 1911
Ed Brown Match Grade Commander-Style Lightweight Hardcore Hammer 1911 Blue
Ed Brown Perfection Sear 1911
Ed Brown Hardcore Firing Pin Stop 1911 45 ACP Series 70 Blue
Ed Brown Hardcore Sear Spring 1911
Ed Brown Tactical Extended Thumb Safety 1911 Blue
Ed Brown Perfection Disconnector 1911
Ed Brown Extended Ejector 1911 45 ACP Blue
Ed Brown Hardcore Firing Pin 1911 45 ACP Series 70, 80 Stainless Steel
Ed Brown Standard Barrel Link 1911 .278" Stainless Steel
Ed Brown Videki National Match Trigger 1911 Aluminum Silver
Ed Brown Extended Magazine Release 1911 Blue
Ed Brown Drop-In Barrel Bushing 1911 Government Stainless Steel
Cylinder and Slide G-10 grips
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Giterboosted said:
The Kimber FPS blocks the firing pin from hitting the primer unless the grip safety is depressed. As for the hole that's left where the FPS lever used to be ... it doesn't bother me at all. I feel that there's less drag on the slide though and that's why I changed the 16lb factory spring to a 18-1/2lb WC spring. I don't want the frame to take a beating. The ejection pattern is just about perfect so the spring, extractor and ejector are all working well together.
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X-Rap
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I have both Kimber and SA pistols and could flip a coin on preference. My Ultra is an old one and the Raptor is newer. The SA is a loaded ??? mod from maybe 10 yrs ago, all function fine but sit in the safe while a Glock rides in my belt, sorry but that's just the cold hard truth for me. I would not go with the Para given my experience.
Giterboosted
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I was unaware my msh was plastic, isn't that what I'm feel in in my palm on the backstrap?
Man I'm learning a Lot about 1911's, but I still don't know the BENEFIT to removing the safety, I mean theoretically if I were involved in a justified shooting incident wouldn't removing a factory. Safety device hurt my case? If not in federal then in at least a civic suit..., regardless is there a functional benefit to it? Also im assuming its a "series 80" pistol? In that case would a series 80 bulletproof extractor from Wilson combat function in it?
I'm planning to go Wilson foranytging I have to replace, except springs, Im torn between them and wolff,
And about the springs how will I know when to change them?
Sorry guys I've kinda turned this into an inform me about my upcoming purchase thread
Man I'm learning a Lot about 1911's, but I still don't know the BENEFIT to removing the safety, I mean theoretically if I were involved in a justified shooting incident wouldn't removing a factory. Safety device hurt my case? If not in federal then in at least a civic suit..., regardless is there a functional benefit to it? Also im assuming its a "series 80" pistol? In that case would a series 80 bulletproof extractor from Wilson combat function in it?
I'm planning to go Wilson foranytging I have to replace, except springs, Im torn between them and wolff,
And about the springs how will I know when to change them?
Sorry guys I've kinda turned this into an inform me about my upcoming purchase thread
Hedgemeister
Member
Go with the meprolights. That is what came on my TLE II and they are brighter than the Trijicons on my glock.
mesinge2
Member
I apologize for the temporary hijack, I will be brief.
Hedgemeister, I just bought a Stainless Kimber TLE II and I was curious: how does yours handle +P ammo? Some people told me that Kimbers are not safe with +P ammo, but Kimber's FAQ page says:
Hedgemeister, I just bought a Stainless Kimber TLE II and I was curious: how does yours handle +P ammo? Some people told me that Kimbers are not safe with +P ammo, but Kimber's FAQ page says:
Hedgemeister
Member
I have yet to feed it any +p ammo. I have fed it some hotter reloads that are close to +p and had no issues.
NoVAshooter
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- Feb 13, 2010
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Kimber all the way!
I recently went through the same dilemma. Finally went with the Kimber. Phenomenal handgun. Best one I have owned so far. Contrary to various posts there was no break in period with jams etc. After 1000+ rounds not a single misfire or jam. Eats up anything you feed it. Never test fired the springer but honestly can't believe it could be any better.
I recently went through the same dilemma. Finally went with the Kimber. Phenomenal handgun. Best one I have owned so far. Contrary to various posts there was no break in period with jams etc. After 1000+ rounds not a single misfire or jam. Eats up anything you feed it. Never test fired the springer but honestly can't believe it could be any better.
Giterboosted said:
If you dropped the pistol and it discharged a round and you had removed the FPS, you could face criminal and civil charges. That's the only purpose of the firing pin safety ... to prevent accidental discharge if the pistol is dropped when a loaded round is in the chamber. So what it comes down to is which is more likely, a malfunction due to the FPS being in place, or an accidental discharge as a result of dropping a loaded 1911 after the FPS has been removed? My personal opinion is that there are millions of Series 70 1911s floating around and if "dropped and shot" was a common occurrence, we'd be hearing about it. My Ed Brown didn't come with a Series 80 or Schwartz safety so I'm in the "take it out" camp.
Hedgemeister said:
+1
I have Meprolights on four pistols and Trijicons on two .... I prefer the Meprolights. They're just as good in the dark and considerably better when I do most of my shooting ... during the day!! Just my personal opinion based on six pistols and thousands of rounds.
Hedgemeister
Member
+1 on the Kimber eating anything. I fed mine a few different brands of steel cased and still no issues. It just seems to be the cool thing to bash on Kimbers. That said I do like the little Springer's as well.
Giterboosted said:
You don't need any Series 80 parts for the Kimber. Stick with a Series 70 extractor. As for Wilson or Wolff springs ... I'd suggest Wilson. You'll need to change the recoil spring more frequently with a 3" 1911 compared to a 5" one. You can change the spring every X number of rounds, or keep shooting (practicing at the range) until you start to get stovepipes or an irregular ejection pattern and make a note of the round count for the next spring.
Giterboosted
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So I need what type of extractor if I'm going to change it?
If you like Wilson Combat parts, then something like this ...
Blue ...
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=110670
Stainless ...
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=537169
The only thing I had to do with the Ed Brown extractor was tension it correctly. You can "match" the tension to the factory extractor or follow Hilton Tam's advice in this excellent article.
http://www.10-8consulting.com/article_page.php?articleID=13
Blue ...
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=110670
Stainless ...
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=537169
The only thing I had to do with the Ed Brown extractor was tension it correctly. You can "match" the tension to the factory extractor or follow Hilton Tam's advice in this excellent article.
http://www.10-8consulting.com/article_page.php?articleID=13
Winkman822
Member
I have owned or do own 1911s from Kimber, Colt, Springfield, Wilson Combat, and Les Baer. The reason I don't like the Kimber Swartz firing pin block on the Series II pistols is that I found it to be inconsitent as compared to the Series 80 firing pin block on my Colt XSE CCO. The firing pin block on my Kimber Custom Royal II was actually out of timing which would result in squeezing the trigger and being met with a click rather than a bang three to four rounds out of every 100. I sent the gun off to Kimber to be looked at, and after they himmed and hawed, they finally fixed it. It was a far from pleasant experience.
My Springfields on the other hand have been 100% function wise, and on the occasions that a gun has had to go back (front tritium night sight dimmed on my TRP and ejector worked loose on my EMP), it was promptly and professionally handled sans headaches associated with Kimber's warranty repair peeps.
My Colt has been problem free aside from the ambi-dexterous safety working loose, but that was an easy fix on my work bench.
Kimber and Springfield both make great guns, but I'd put the Springer ahead of the Kimber.
Something else you'll notice is that Kimber seems to have more issues with small parts breakages than Springfield. Kimber and Springfield both use MIM small parts in their guns, but the Springfield parts just seem to be more consistent and sturdy than their Kimber counterparts.
My Springfields on the other hand have been 100% function wise, and on the occasions that a gun has had to go back (front tritium night sight dimmed on my TRP and ejector worked loose on my EMP), it was promptly and professionally handled sans headaches associated with Kimber's warranty repair peeps.
My Colt has been problem free aside from the ambi-dexterous safety working loose, but that was an easy fix on my work bench.
Kimber and Springfield both make great guns, but I'd put the Springer ahead of the Kimber.
Something else you'll notice is that Kimber seems to have more issues with small parts breakages than Springfield. Kimber and Springfield both use MIM small parts in their guns, but the Springfield parts just seem to be more consistent and sturdy than their Kimber counterparts.
Winkman822
Member
It is indeed true that Springfield uses MIM parts in their guns...and yes it includes the Loaded and TRP models. For what it's worth though, I've had my TRP for four years and have many thousands of rounds through it with nary a hiccup. While my Wilson CQB and Baer TRS are in their relative infancies (just a tick over a thousand rounds through each without any hiccups), I'd say that the TRP is still a strong contender in terms of fit, function and accuracy.
Winkman822 said:
I'm definitely a fan of the TRP but I was under the impression that it didn't have MIM parts in it. I've been thinking about buying one for quite a while. My LGS has a pair of the stainless TRPs that I've molested and I've shot one at the range. I was thinking that it'd make a good backup for my Kimber for USPSA shooting. I hadn't planned on doing anything to it other than Cerakote it and that was part of the appeal .... a $1,300 1911 that I won't want/need to upgrade.
jhb
Member
....should be easy....
springfield. i highly dislike kimbers, and i am not one of those fanboy brand types. i have seen enough kimbers and shot enough to know they are overpriced for what you get, although the same could be said about springfield as well to be fair. the real difference is in a kimber the quality is lacking heavily.you may get a good one, but the odds are against you, imho. i know this is a touchy subject, but i own a bunch of brands i am not a springfield fanboy to clarify my suggestion.
in the end for any gun, the two brands i will not own are kimber and ruger...but ruger for a whole different set of reasons...that don't apply here.
jhb
springfield. i highly dislike kimbers, and i am not one of those fanboy brand types. i have seen enough kimbers and shot enough to know they are overpriced for what you get, although the same could be said about springfield as well to be fair. the real difference is in a kimber the quality is lacking heavily.you may get a good one, but the odds are against you, imho. i know this is a touchy subject, but i own a bunch of brands i am not a springfield fanboy to clarify my suggestion.
in the end for any gun, the two brands i will not own are kimber and ruger...but ruger for a whole different set of reasons...that don't apply here.
jhb
klash545
Member
based on experience,out of those two choices:springfield
kimbers have been hit or miss for years
kimbers have been hit or miss for years
Damon555
Member
Don't change out anything on your new gun when you get it.......You need to form your own opinion about what needs changing. Take the gun out, shoot the crap out of it and enjoy. You probably won't need to change a thing.
There probably ain't a bit of difference between equivalent models of SA or Kimber. Buy what you want, don't listen to us.
On that note. My kimbers are excellent 1911's but I can only speak for the Government size. I've seen a few problems with the smaller models so I will steer clear of those.
There probably ain't a bit of difference between equivalent models of SA or Kimber. Buy what you want, don't listen to us.
On that note. My kimbers are excellent 1911's but I can only speak for the Government size. I've seen a few problems with the smaller models so I will steer clear of those.
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