Learning to reload and experimenting!

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msta999

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I did have 3 different kinds of bullets and two different kinds of powder, but I think that was way too may different loads and just too much to keep track of, plus expensive. I am now sticking with just one bullet, which is AccuBond Nosler 180 grain Spitzer. I am also just sticking with the R19 powder. I started out with the low end of the chart of 72 and made 3 rounds each of 74, 75, 75.6, 76, 76.6 and 77. The difference between the 4831, the R19 and the different bullets was huge. This has really been a learning experience for me. I didn't know there would be such a difference between loads.

Has anyone used these Nosler bullets? They have the boat tail and the guy at the store swore by them, though I'm thinking I should have went with the lead point bullet, like hornady.
 
Some rifles shoot boat-tail bullets well and some shoot better with flat based bullets. The Hornady 180gr. Spire Point flat based bullet is a good shooting bullet as a rule and most often less expensive than premium bullets. They perform well on game too. That's part of the fun of reloading is finding a load that shoots best in a particular rifle but as you said, today it's getting expensive. What caliber you loading for?
 
Not sure what you are reloading for but with respect to the Nosler accubonds I use them in my 300 WSM and love them for their accuaracy as well as weight retention. Yes the correct way to work up a load is to start at least ten percent under max load and work up in at least five steps. If you are using military brass and it is rifle brass I will start an additional ten percent lower due to smaller case capacity because of thicker brass. If you don't have a copy of the book Modern Reloading II from LEE Precision it will be a good investment as it clearly explains and shows the relationship between burn rates and velocity. There are several other good books to help one gain useful info and act as cross references to verify loads are safe.:)
 
It's good to have friends or find people around you that reload. This will cut your expiences down and thiers. Ask if they have different bullets see if they will trade you 10 rounds or so. ask if you can use some of the powder they use. I useally give the lb. can to a friend to use to load up a few rounds and then just pick it up later.

This is the thing about reloading it can be a little more money at first but once you learn what you gun shots and shot well then factory loads will never do again.
 
Sorry, I lost this post until now. I am loading for a 300 weatherby Vanguard, sports model (wood) made in Japan.

I am using or reusing weathery and pmc brass.

primers are cci 250 mag.

R19 powder ( I see the Nosler web site says to use R22 for best performance with this Nosler 180 grain Spitzer bullet)

The Nosler web site give exact loads for their bullets:
Powder: RL-22 180gr Ballistic Tip®, AccuBond® & Partition
Charge Weight (in grains) Muzzle Velocity (fps) Load Density
80.0* -----------------------3132 fps---------------91%
78.0-------------------------3039 fps--------------89%
76.0-------------------------2945 fps--------------86%


Alliant states:
300 Weatherby Magnum
Speer 180 gr SP
Remington case
3.56 oal
CCI 250 primer
Reloder 19 powder
78 - Charge Weight(grains)
2,990 Velocity
(fps)

I would be nice if I could find a chart that was this accurate for R19 and the Nosler bullets.
 
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