Lee Enfield No.4 Mk I, plus another unusual thingy

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Nov 12, 2018
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People's Republic of California, Central Valley
The third and last rifle I purchased from the estate I've been working with is a rather nice postwar-refurbed No.4

No4New.jpg

The metal is really nice and the bore looks like you could eat off of it -- possibly an unused replacement barrel? Here's a slightly blurred pic of the markings:

No4Markings.jpg

A few dings on the stock and the magazine doesn't match, but otherwise quite minty. It's in far better original condition than my other No. 4, which is a bit of a mixmaster:

No4s.jpg

Last week I was also fooling around with an interwar Erma .22 Mauser 98 conversion and managed to get it fitted properly in the Turkish K.Kale Mauser from the same estate. Here's a few pix:

KKaleWConversion.jpg MauserConversion01.jpg

It looks like the bolt is partly open, but that's as far down as she goes. Note also that it's positioned about an inch further back than the normal bolt. The conversion requires removing the bolt along with magazine floorplate, spring and follower. There's a couple sets of blind holes that are turned with pin punches to lock the conversion into the action. Woe be unto anyone who tightens the rear one incorrectly -- it takes a vise and mallet to get it unstuck.

MauserConversion03.jpg

The length of the insert is sized to the K98k, so it ends inside the bore several inches short of this Turkish rifle's muzzle. I'm looking forward to some range time with it next week.

This unit was purchased from Simpson's along with a second Erma .22 conversion unit, a rather neat single shot arrangement that I currently have installed on a Yugo 98/48 with a repro ZF-41 scope.

 
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Very good stuff there. :thumbup: I really like that .22 conversion set up, that makes for a nice training rifle (and a cool piece of history, too!).

If you shoot them, let us know how they both shoot. :)

Stay safe.
 
The single shot conversion shoots great -- zeros to the rifle sights and groups tightly with everything I've tried so far. It's pitted in places on the outer surface (I took some steel wool to those, to prevent the oxides from scratching the rifle's bore), but the insert's bore is still perfect. Possibly the insert barrel benefits from being tensioned from both ends, like a Dan Wesson revolver barrel. It will be interesting to see whether the repeater conversion does as well.

BTW, I tried to install the repeater conversion in my Persian Mauser, but its bore is a wee bit too tight for it to fit.
 
According to the markings on the receiver your No4 went through a factory rebuild in 1949.

No4 Mk 1 F = Fazakerley Liverpool. ( FTR ) =Factory Thorough Rebuild.. 49 =1949

It's unlikely to be a post WW2 rifle, I suspect the receiver has seen a lot of use in it's time. How many grooves does the barrel have ?

PS, Why have you obscured the serial number ?
 
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According to the markings on the receiver your No4 went through a factory rebuild in 1949.

No4 Mk 1 F = Fazakerley Liverpool. ( FTR ) =Factory Thorough Rebuild.. 49 =1949

It's unlikely to be a post WW2 rifle, I suspect the receiver has seen a lot of use in it's time. How many grooves does the barrel have ?

PS, Why have you obscured the serial number ?

Thanks for the info! I count 5 grooves at the muzzle.

I obscure my SNs in photos whenever I remember because it's my gun and that's what I do. This is the kind of side issue that may hijack the thread and turn snarky in a hurry.

Please see previous threads on this subject and you'll see what I mean:

 
I think your rifle is an early one as it's a Mk1, the Mk1's came first. :)

I have a No4 made in the US by Savage before Pearl Harbour, mine is a Mk1*. It's also an FTR rifle with a new 5 groove barrel, it would originally have had a 2 groove barrel. Mine was FTR'd by BSA at Maltby,. there are no FTR Markings on the receiver as that appears to be only a Scouser thing. I'm not sure if the cocking piece is original to the rifle but it's an early one which is not common on a No4 , but it could be as Savage were supplied with many parts by
Longbranch in Ontario.. All numbers match including the magazine., there's lot's of serial numbers on it to see, it's been used on 4 rifles.





bu IMG_4905.JPG IMG_4907.JPG IMG_4902.JPG IMG_4899.JPG IMG_4898.JPG IMG_4903.JPG

It is an accurate rifle with lovely trigger, whoever rebuilt it knew what he was doing. I normally have to make slight adjustments , but not with this one... I shoot 7.62 X 54 R bullets in it.
 
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I just picked up a No. 4 MK1, made by Savage (marked US Property) couple of questions...
how do you get that piece to flip up so you can get the bolt out? Figured that out...was trying to flip piece with bolt in wrong place
Is the extractor spring loaded? If so i'm gonna need some bolt work. extractor has no tension
I bought some Prvi Partizan ammo (PPU) and bolt will not fully close. I don't have any other ammo to test with yet
 
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I just picked up a No. 4 MK1, made by Savage (marked US Property) couple of questions...
how do you get that piece to flip up so you can get the bolt out? Figured that out...was trying to flip piece with bolt in wrong place
Is the extractor spring loaded? If so i'm gonna need some bolt work. extractor has no tension
I bought some Prvi Partizan ammo (PPU) and bolt will not fully close. I don't have any other ammo to test with yet

Hard to explain in words, but here's a vid about the Mk I* with the cutout in the right receiver rail:


You may have a broken extractor spring -- Wolff makes brand new ones:

 
I just picked up a No. 4 MK1, made by Savage (marked US Property) couple of questions...
how do you get that piece to flip up so you can get the bolt out? Figured that out...was trying to flip piece with bolt in wrong place
Is the extractor spring loaded? If so i'm gonna need some bolt work. extractor has no tension
I bought some Prvi Partizan ammo (PPU) and bolt will not fully close. I don't have any other ammo to test with yet
Given that you are having trouble closing your bolt on PPU ammo it sounds like you might have an incorrect bolt head. The bolt heads are numbered 0, 1 ,2 , 3 and are interchangeable, they usually come with the extractor....

What size bolt head do you have now ? The numbers are marked on the bolt head and can be seen without removing the bolt from the rifle.

If you can change a lightbulb you can change a Lee Enfield bolt head, it's that easy.

PS How many surrealists does it take to change a light bulb ?
 
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While the bolt head may be part of the issue, it's important to know what headspace issues, if any your particular specimen has before replacing a bolt head. These bolt heads usually are made it increasing legnths to compensate for headspace in the rifle. Several very informative videos and forums regarding the # 4 mk 1* and how to determine what you may or man not require rather than randomly replacing critical parts.
 
While the bolt head may be part of the issue, it's important to know what headspace issues, if any your particular specimen has before replacing a bolt head. These bolt heads usually are made it increasing legnths to compensate for headspace in the rifle. Several very informative videos and forums regarding the # 4 mk 1* and how to determine what you may or man not require rather than randomly replacing critical parts.
The headspace issue that he has is that there is no headspace. He needs a number 2 bolt head or a number 1 bolt head, only the can he check the headspace.

As the bolt will not " FULLY CLOSE" I suspect the bolt head he needs is a number 2
 
Attached is a need to know set of things regarding Enfield boltheads and headspacing.
You may draw your own conclusions
I don't need a survey to know that it's not possible to check head space when there is no head space to check .
 
When these Lee Enfields came in to the US in the 1990's, I must have handled hundreds in the various gunshops selling them. And at gun shows. The FTR's typically had new barrels. If your barrel looks new, then it is new. It was in fact, hard to find an all original. I did find two in excellent condition that came from Canada.

I guess British Armorer's were real busy after WW2 repairing all the war time rifle turn backs. There was a relatively long period after WW2 before the UK and the USA adopted a new service rifle. While the UK adopted the FAL 1954, that does not mean they had the industrial capacity, nor money, to issue a new FAL to every soldier. (young people today has this idea that because they can email everyone in the world at once, that industry can therefore do the same with durable goods. ) And the UK was heavily involved in the Korean War (ended 1953) and bush wars. It would have made sense to refurbish every No 4 to have as a war reserve in case the Soviets and their allies got frisky.
 
It was in fact, hard to find an all original. I did find two in excellent condition that came from Canada.

The best quality Number 4's were built at Long Branch near Toronto .

sTIHhHi.jpg
 
I bought some Prvi Partizan ammo (PPU) and bolt will not fully close. I don't have any other ammo to test with yet

Now that you have the bolt out, how does the chamber look? No burrs or obstructions that could interfere with chambering?

It's an unlikely issue, but one time I was unable to close the bolt on a dummy round in a Swiss 1889 Schmidt-Rubin I'd just bought from Simpson's. It turned out that part of a torn case was wedged tightly inside the chamber. The sales guys at Simpsons missed it, as did I until I got enough light inside to see what had happened.

I had fun removing it:

 
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