Lee Enfield

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DDDWho

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Finally a decent mil surp. My friend and neighbor passed away recently. He had quite a few guns that his children and nephews were fighting over except this Enfield 303. The widow and my wife have been best friends since high school. I approached her about buying the Enfield, she nor I had any idea of the value of it, I offered her $400 and she accepted. I don’t know why but I’ve always had a hankering for mil surp rifles. I’ve not shot it yet and probably never will but it’s fun to look at. 52-E67-D0-B-2-F3-F-433-A-B332-9-EEEAD1728-AC.jpg 9-B63-ED1-F-8237-4-EFA-B193-37-B3-B9702-FCB.jpg
 
You never know when the opportunity to shoot it might come up. If you lived near me I certainly would have ammo for it.
 
You never know when the opportunity to shoot it might come up. If you lived near me I certainly would have ammo for it.
I found a box of ammo with 5 or so rounds in it. I may shoot a couple of those but right now the ammo I’m looking for and buying is .22, .300 blk out, 9mm, for SHTF duty BTW I ran a bore snake down the barrel and it’s perfect.
 
Looks pretty good. The stock has been modified but it's still a good shooter.
Whoever modified the stock did a good job, looks professional. The receiver is kinda banged up but the blueing on the barrel is perfect. I like having iconic, solid well built guns, around
 
From the cocking piece on the bolt, that's an early model No. 1 Lee-Enfield. To my understanding, the sort of rifle W. D. M. Bell used as one of three rifles to kill elephants in Africa. No, it's not in issue or even original condition. However, it is an outstanding rifle for most North American and European game.
Most all U. S. manufacturers make hunting type ammo for it (during normal conditions) and PPU makes excellent versions of the Mark VII original loading. During normal conditions. They are accurate enough for game, perhaps less accurate for formal target shooting. The action is strong enough for the cartridge pressure and quite reliable.
 
“Early” perhaps pre or WW1? If it is that old it is in remarkably good condition. No rust anywhere, rifling sharp and bright and very few scratches on the cut down stock
 
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... and PPU makes excellent versions of the Mark VII original loading.
? I knew that PPU made (at least at one time since I still have a supply of it) 174gr flatbase FMJ .303Brit ammo that generally mirrors MkVIIz ammunition, this is the first that I have read that they actually produce the Cordite-loaded original version. I have never seen any of that for sale.
 
? I knew that PPU made (at least at one time since I still have a supply of it) 174gr flatbase FMJ .303Brit ammo that generally mirrors MkVIIz ammunition, this is the first that I have read that they actually produce the Cordite-loaded original version. I have never seen any of that for sale.
Pretty sure the PPU 174 grain FB .303 ammo you've got would be a clone of the ".303 inch Ball L1A1" adopted by the Brits in 1983 and produced by the Greek Powder & Cartridge Company (HXP).

Mk VII and VIIz both had aluminium or fiber filled tips to increase accuracy and terminal performance.

L1A1 had a simple lead core FMJ.

https://sites.google.com/site/britmilammo/-303-inch/-303-inch-cordite-ball-mark-vi-to-viiiz
 
? I knew that PPU made (at least at one time since I still have a supply of it) 174gr flatbase FMJ .303Brit ammo that generally mirrors MkVIIz ammunition, this is the first that I have read that they actually produce the Cordite-loaded original version. I have never seen any of that for sale.
You are correct. They do not use cordite.

I have committed the error that irritates me so much in others. I was not clear. I should have said "... later issue..." rather than 'original'. At the same time, I have a small horde of it and it shoots well.
 
You are correct. They do not use cordite. ...
:( Rats! I was looking forward to putting new-made cordite MkVII cartridges thru its paces (and disassembling a few for inspection). Thought that I missed a new product on the market amidst the current Troubles.

I have a lot of old British-mfr MkVII milsurp ammo (and several old warhorses with cordite-related throat erosion thru which to shoot them) and I thought it would be interesting to test for any differences with fresh-made cordite loads.

Oh well. :)
 
Under the bolt handle. Am I to assume it was made in 1916 at the Enfield factory? 5-C3086-D9-F6-A7-414-B-A976-14-A752-AD4-ABF.jpg Left side of receiver, it says “FTR 1953” 47-F045-B1-D871-44-B7-9-D27-BD9190-A16-B6-B.jpg Swell at the barrel. I can’t make much out of any
of it 1-DD88-A46-FF49-446-E-8-C48-D424-A36-D068-D.jpg
 
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This may be a candidate for restoration, depending on what was done at the muzzle. If the muzzle end is intact, then you would need a forend, handguards, nose cap, band, and a few minor parts. Not impossible to find.

Post a full-length picture.
 
you really should take the old smelly out and give her a shoot. I've noted that, when available, Remington 303 ammo is good to go. Since I handload with that diameter bullet alot (Mosins like the same diameter) I know that there are some sweet recipes for that round that can make it shine brightly using 123 grain bullets :)

Hope you change your mind as its a fine looker.

D
 
I wouldn't feel sorry for myself post-SHTF with a SMLE and a bunch of ammo for it. Worth stockpiling ammo for it for sure. But, .303 never has been as plentiful or cheap like Russian stuff or 7.92X57mm. And now, powder, primers and brass ain't cheap either.

The SMLE is what first got me interested in mil-surp rifles. As a kid, I'd see one in a movie, and think it was the coolest rifle ever. Shot my first deer with one too. One of my SMLE's is a 1916 too, but I forget which one. I have a BSA, Lithgow, and a Ishapor. Or Ishapur. Whatever. My No.4's are Enfields and a couple of Longbranch/Canadians. Aye?

One of my Enfields had been "sporterized", so I converted it to a "Jungle Carbine". At one time you could buy those "kits" for really cheap. I have another LongBranch that's been sporterized, waiting for another one of those kits to come along. I don't think you can still get them. ?

Indeed the 123 grain bullets intended for the Ruska rifles shoot fine, and shine. For a while that's what I shot in my Bogus Jungle Carbine, but now I've switched to one load for all my .303's, which is a 174 grain FMJ at 2400fps.
 
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Finally a decent mil surp. My friend and neighbor passed away recently. He had quite a few guns that his children and nephews were fighting over except this Enfield 303. The widow and my wife have been best friends since high school. I approached her about buying the Enfield, she nor I had any idea of the value of it, I offered her $400 and she accepted. I don’t know why but I’ve always had a hankering for mil surp rifles. I’ve not shot it yet and probably never will but it’s fun to look at. View attachment 1031536View attachment 1031537

I remember in the early 1960's, wooden barrels full of those at the local K Mart. That is probably where it came from, based on the owner cutting the stock down. Military surplus from WW2 was dirt cheap and there was a huge aftermarket "sporterizing" the things. Some better than others, it is obvious the first owner did not buy the aftermarket Fajen stocks that were available. The next flood I remember was 1990-91 when a bunch of Australian No1 MKIII's and Canadia No 4 Mk1 came on the market with a smattering of No 4 MKII's. I don't believe many of those were "sporterized" as the value of the things in original military condition had been recognized in the previous decades.

eIQ497L.jpg


Good luck finding all the wood and metal parts if you want to restore it. If you do, do it now, parts will continue to be hard to find as time goes on.
 
Actually, parts for these guns have reached the price points where reproductions are starting to come on the market.
Quality will vary, of course, and these parts won't be cheap... .

All those owner having to restore butchered military rifles.

Sporteriztion was highly profitable, and a scam. While many did convert cheap old military rifles, when you add up the cost of gunsmith work and components, the final price of a well done rifle was equal, if not more, than the cost of a factory new Rem M721 or equivalent. This is an example of a professionally gunsmithed Rock Island 03. The receiver serial number is in the series of unfinished receivers sent to Springfield after WW1, and then made into a complete military rifle.

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It has an original military barrel, and that is OK for rock blasting, but it is not as accurate as a well made match barrel of the period. Nor, as well as some of my period factory barrels. It was false economy to have it sanded and blued. Too bad the owner did not install one of these

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A number of owners tossed all the military hardware and installed the action in one of theses

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sometimes did a stock and barrel job, but the barrel job tended to lead to low scope bolt handles, etc.

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Sometimes the action came with a new barrel

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But, these military Mauser actions were not built for high pressure cartridges. The standard 8mm and 7mm Mauser load was 43,000 psia up to WW1, and the WW2 load was 46,000 psia. The 270 Win, of course a 308 Win, operates above the proof pressure of the original action, making conversions to these higher pressure cartridges inadvisable. And I regularly upset those who have 300 Win Mag conversions, or any conversion with a 60,000 psia cartridge on old original military actions, by stating I consider those rigs risky. Upset owners never come back with data about the longevity of pressure vessels operating above their design and construction limits. Instead I get ignorance, superstition, and denial. But, this is something I am curious about. Just how many 10 to 20 thousand pound pressure cycles above the original cartridge, should a military action, of unknown former usage, survive. For that matter, how many pressure cycles should any pressure vessel survive above its proof pressure requirements.

Fire extinguishers are required to be periodically pressure test verified. This is the fixture and notice the wall in the back ground.

5ugF0Bi.jpg

The fire extinguisher is in a water bath, and the extinguisher itself is filled with water. Then pressure is increased for the water inside the extinguisher. When the extinguisher is under pressure, it expands, and displaces the water in the fixture. That water is measured and compared against standards. If there is too much water dispelled, the extinguisher pressure vessel is weak and dangerous.Sometimes the extinguisher fails the pressure test.

to protect the test tank, and the operator, there is a blow out valve in case the extinguisher ruptures under pressure, this valve is facing the wall in the upper picture.

dwrPeEr.jpg

and the paint blasted off the wall is due to the number of extinguishers that have failed.

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+1 for not taking advantage of widows! Been casting for Enfields for a while. Plinking load now is 16 grains of 2400 powder; waay cheaper than factory loads. I assume you don't cast/reload. Want to go down this fun/rewarding rabbit hole, myself and others will be glad to help.

Enfield's mag holds 10 rounds and the action is smooth/fast. I can see it as a SHTF gun.
 

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There's a lot that can be said about cast bullets and plinking loads in a cartridge such as the .303. When you stop to consider that you can get a 200 grain bullet going 1600-1700fps without leading, (yes even more velocity can be had, but I'm not talking "expertise") And realize that that's not too/much different from a .357 magnum with a 200 grain bullet fired from a rifle, you can do much more than just plink with it. I sure would not want anyone shooting at me with plinking loads out of a .303, .30-06, 7.92X57mm, etc.

I've found that RL7 works best, for me, for cast bullet loads in rifle cases. A little more bulk than Unique or 2400. Probably even better powders, very wide variety of powders will work for cast bullet/"plinking" loads.

In a pinch, the .303 will even shoot .308" bullets, if that's all you have after the .300BLK and 9mm run out. (if you are a reloader) Some SMLE's will shoot them better than others, and my experience is that the No.4 rifles, in general, have tighter bores, especially the Canuks. The bore on a No.1 rifle can vary wildly from rifle to rifle.

Disclaimer: I just pulled those velocity figures off the top of me head, they are not exact. !!! Meant to be generalizations.
 
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