Lee Factory Crimp Die

[Bacardi151]

Is it worth it for 45 ACP?

What about 45 Colt (LC)?

I am a paper puncher only, but not a competative one. Will the crimp in the 3 die sets be fine or should I get the 4 die sets?

And yes, price is an issue after just buying a new gun and all the other reloading supplies for 2 new calibers.

Thanks.

PS both the ACP and LC are for use in a revolver and single stage press if it matters.

 

[ojibweindian]

The FCD is not needed. Just use the bullet seating and crimp die in the 3-die set. The instructions that come with the die set will show you how to use it.

 

[rcmodel]

You don't need it if you set your seating/crimp die correctly.

And adjusted incorrectly, even a Lee FCD can do more damage then good!

I reloaded perfect ammo for 25+ years before they were even invented without a problem.

rcmodel

 

[strat81]

The Lee 4-die sets are usually cheaper than other brands' 3-die sets. Try it out and see for yourself.

I use the FCD for .45ACP and 9x19.

 

[Bacardi151]

Its Lee 3 die set vs Lee 4 die set. Again, cost is an issu and I save about $10/set. Does it matter that most if not all my reloads will be cast lead? Thought I rmember somone saying they cast lead + Lee FCD was bad?

 

[Galil5.56]

I see absolutely no need for a FCD for 45 auto, or any other straight wall case for that matter. Bell removal is all that is needed, and that's all a TC die does or should. High bullet pull/neck tension is what retains bullets in autoloaders, and you want to see that nice bulge around the case.

I would actually steer very wide from a std FCD using lead, as it will ruin bullet sizing in many cases, thus accuracy. I agree that 3 dies is all that is needed, and all I use for my .45 ACP ammo.

 

[Z-Michigan]

I have found the Lee seating die for .357/38 to provide a good crimp once I learned to use it right - i.e. adjust in tiny increments, and crimp as a separate operation after seating. Unfortunately I found this out shortly (days) after buying a FCD for that caliber, which will probably just collect dust.

As an aside, autoloaders use taper crimps and revolvers normally use roll crimps. Factory ammo for .45 ACP will have a taper crimp. You have the option of putting a roll crimp on rounds that will only be used in a revolver, but you would need to get a special die for it. Given the moderate recoil of 45 ACP in a revolver I don't think it's needed, but hopefully someone more experienced can confirm.

45 Colt is always a revolver cartridge and will only have a roll crimp, which is what you want.

 

[Walkalong]

It's an absolute waste of time with properly loaded pistol rounds with properly sized bullets, period, and as rcmodel said, it can do more damage than good.

I use a crimp only die in a fourth step. It's easier to adjust seperately from the sizer, and I think it gives a better crimp that way.

 

[The Bushmaster]

Good evening Walkalong....

 

[trickyasafox]

not needed, but can be nice to have.

 

[Halo]

Several years ago I read a bunch of hype about them on the forums and bought two for 9mm and 45 Auto. I can't really say they produce any better of a crimp than my RCBS seat/crimp die was doing. I still use them though, in a fourth step crimping operation. I much prefer seating and crimping in separate steps, and the FCD certainly works fine for that.

 

[Griz44]

For a newbie, getting the seat/crimp die set properly can be difficult. It's way too easy to change the seat depth when changing the amount of crimp. I started with that in mind, with advise from a guy who had been reloading for 30+ years, and he recommended it on straight wall autoloaders. This allows total freedom when seating multiple bullets with the same seater die and not having to worry about screwing up the crimp adjust. I set mine up with the FCD in station 5, and do not crimp at all with the seater die in station 4. This made the setup much simpler for me, maybe a sign of my simple mind, you be the judge. I make some pretty good ammo for the 45acp, and that's the bottom line. Get there with one less die and save a few bucks or get there easier with the extra die. That's my .02 worth, and I like it that way. If you are using a single stage, it is of course an extra cycle of the cases through the press routine. Most folks that shoot auto pistols use LOTS of rounds, so progressives are usually used where the extra die station does not cause any extra work during loading operations.

 

[evan price]

There is only ONE need for the FCD assuming the user correctly sets up all of the other 3 dies when reloading, and properly sized bullets are used.
I have seen much more harm than good come of using an FCD from people who undersized finished ammo and ruined cases & bullets. Lots of loaders use the FCD to make up for sloppy practices when reloading.

If properly setup, by the time your ammo goes into the FCD it should just barely touch the FCD.

The ONLY need for an FCD that I can see- If you have a pistol with a very tight chamber, such as a gunsmith-fitted high performance 1911 of some kind, an FCD will ensure your ammo fits that specific gun which would have tighter tolerances than a "combat" firearm.

The issue behind pushing the FCD's on people are that these are not cheap to design and produce, so if the die makers can't get people to "need" them they won't sell them.

It's the newest, coolest phenomenon. Other than the FCD what major innovation has come around in reloading to make people buy new die sets? Reloading dies- especially the carbide dies- last virtually forever unless abused, there's people using 50 year old dies today I am sure.

 

[bakert]

I use the Lee FCD on .45ACP and at times on .45 Colt loads. Works for me

 

[Mike 56]

I think the LFC die is a speed tool for loading cast bullets for revolvers. I don't resize the cases i just flair the case and then size with the LFC die after i seat the bullet. Works great for S&W 1917 45ACP.

Mike

 

[Griz44]

Well, there you have it. Everyone has an opinion. For me, the FCD for my customized Colt made a difference in feeding reliabilty. Was it worth it for me. YES. Looks like for others it is a waste of time and money, not that it was all that expensive in the first place. For those folks, I admire your skill and confidence at the art of reloading. And yes, when the round goes through the FCD it barely kisses the sizer, if at all. The taper crimp is what I am after anyway. This saves the hassle of readjusting seating/crimp with only one die, and every round is crimped perfectly. I have it set where it works for my Colt, for every round, for every bullet. The case length is the determining factor, not the depth of the bullet in the case. I am not 30 years experienced at reloading like some here, but I know what works for me.

 

[Walkalong]

Just buy a regular taper crimp die to crimp in a 4th step, or use your seaters built in ability to crimp, but forget the post sizing BS.

 

[Griz44]

but forget the post sizing BS.

+1 for that Walkalong. Sizing bullets in the case makes some very poorly crafted ammo. Use a sizing die before loading starts or in first stage of a progressive. Results will be MUCH better.

 

[Galil5.56]

when the round goes through the FCD it barely kisses the sizer, if at all.

Perhaps with your application and how your die was built, but for me using .453" or even .454" cast bullets in my 45 auto, or .431"-.432" bullets in my 44 mag, the std FCD ruins these bullets diameter, and far from kisses the case for me. I do have an over sized FCD for my 44 mag used as a separate crimp die in the 4th station.

I am not 30 years experienced at reloading like some here, but I know what works for me.

What could be better? Just another reason I love reloading so much after 29 years... What works for me, might not work for you, and we can all learn and contribute something.

 

[Griz44]

The .453 or .454 may be why the difference on the sizer kiss job. I push all my rounds through a .451 sizer before loading. I cast my own 45 bullets using a Lee TL- style mold and am currently lubing with Lee Liquid Alox. You might also consider removing the sizer band from the die and use just the taper crimp portion. I don't know how to remove it, but since someone put it in there, surely it can be taken out.

 

[Galil5.56]

I actually saw a guy who hack sawed the sizer portion off, after trying to remove it.

 

[Walkalong]

Redding Taper Crimp Die. The solution to fourth step crimping. The Lee Taper Crimp Die will work too, just expect to do a little polishing.

My .38 Super die set uses a polished by me Lee seater without the seater plug to taper crimp in a seperate step, but mostly I use the Redding. My 9MM taper crimp die is an old C&H.

 

[wingman]

I use the Lee crimp die on most auto's rounds I prefer to seat and crimp in two operations and it works for me however like any tool if adjusted wrong it can cause problems.

 

[Mike 56]

Using The FCD works good removing the flair, crimp, and size in one operation. I get very accurate loads using this method. I got the idea from Ed Harris the cast bullet guru he might know a thing or two about reloading.

Mike

 

[RustyFN]

Not a must have but is nice to have . I use one for every caliber I load for just as a separate crimp die. I don't use it to fix bad ammo. I like to seat and crimp in separate steps any crimp die would work it wouldn't have to be the FCD, but then I like Lee dies so it's easy to just buy the four die set.
Rusty