Lee reloading kit advice needed

[dae06]

I am new to reloading and will probably go with a Lee reloading kit. I have read many times that people buy a kit thinking they will get everything they need, but end up making more trips to the sporting goods store to pick up what they need to have a complete kit.

First of all, What is the difference between the Lee 50th Anniversary Kit and the Lee Breech Lock Challenger (LBLC) Press Kit?

What I see is with the 50th anniverary I would get the lg and sm safety prime, and with the LBLC I get the auto primer instead of the safety prime and a set auto prime shell holders (?) not sure what this is. What's the difference and which is better?

I realize I will need to get a case length trimmer when I purchase either of these kits. This is resonable to me due to the many, many different sizes out there, along with Brass, Powder, primers and bullets.

But what else do I need to make this a ready to reload kit?

Thanks for any and all advice.

 

[jhansman]

The Lee kit is a good starting point, and the breech lock Challenger is a nice single-stage press. The Safety Prime is a press-mounted priming system, and as such used the same shellholder the press uses for every other operation; these shellholders come with the die set you use (at least, the Lee dies). The Auto Prime is a hand-held unit that requires dedicated shellholders that work only with it, and not the press (hope you're following this). I prefer handheld priming, as I do maybe a hundred rounds max per session. With the breechlock press, you have the option of priming with the press, but you can still do it by hand if you choose. I can tell you the breechlock system is a quick and easy way to swap out dies, but for it to be effective, you need a bushing for every die, and if you load for several calibers, the cost can add up (about $8.00 for a pair of bushings). If you get the kit, you'll soon see what else you may need, but it won't be much. Good luck!

 

[Racinbob]

I purchased an Anniversary kit. I had to get the scale replaced because it was defective. Lee handled it great. I still just didn't care for it so I bought a RCBS 750 electronic. I didn't care for the priming set up either and went with a RCBS hand primer. It I had to do it again I'd get the kit with the hand primer. It was a learning process for me but all in all I think Lee gives a lot of bang for the buck. Eventually I want to get their auto index turrent press. Also, I've gathered enough die lock nuts on ebay to replace the Lee style. I like the type that clamp tight, not the set screw. Now if I could just find a deal on more breech bushings.

 

[dae06]

Okay, so if I am understanding things correctly, you guys would probably go with the 50th anniversary due to the hand primer.?.?

Oh yeh, I forgot to mention one more thing I would need to buy: Dies, that a bit confusing also. I plan on reloading .223 rifle and 44 mag pistol. What Dies do I need?

I see Rifle full length Sizing Dies, Rifle Sizing Dies, Delux Rifle Die set, Universal dies, Pacesetter Dies, etc. I don't know what do I really need?

 

[Grandpa Shooter]

Oh yeh, I forgot to mention one more thing I would need to buy: Dies, that a bit confusing also. I plan on reloading .223 rifle and 44 mag pistol. What Dies do I need?

I see Rifle full length Sizing Dies, Rifle Sizing Dies, Delux Rifle Die set, Universal dies, Pacesetter Dies, etc. I don't know what do I really need?

A set of plain and simple carbide dies for 44 mag will do nicely. Easy caliber to load due to the basically straight wall case.

With .223 you need to get the deluxe die set so that you have a separate bullet seating die and factory crimp die. The .223 will hold with neck tension alone, but a light crimp will make it and you feel more secure. Many don't even use a crimp, just relying on neck tension to get the job done.

If you are using factory brass you should still use a good case gauge to check overall length, neck length and shoulder set back. Used brass requires meticulous inspection and preparation for consistent results.

You will discover that you will need many little extras, so count on spending $200 more for the little things like calipers, precision plier and screwdriver set, quality scale, case trimmer, etc.

 

[RustyFN]

With .223 you need to get the deluxe die set so that you have a separate bullet seating die and factory crimp die.

I could be wrong but I think the deluxe die set comes with the FL sizing die, neck sizing die and seater die. If you are loading for a AR rifle then I would go with the Pacesetter set. That's the set I use. It includes the FL sizing die, seater die and factory crimp die. You won't need a neck sizing die for a AR.
Rusty

 

[atlanticfire]

I started with that kit and still have it. I've added other presses now but still have all the original kit. Works everytime for me. Have dies for over 20 cals, get the carbide dies!

 

[TooTaxed]

Case Trimming

Lee makes the least expensive...and easy to use, accurate, versatile...either hand trim or hand drill powered...on the market. All you need is the basic cutter and lockstud set...about $5...plus a case length gage and shell holder set for each cartridge you want to reload...about $4/set. Check the length of some of your cases with a vernier caliper (a must have for a reloader)...you will definitely need to trim fired rifle cases at least the first time, but you may not need to trim pistol cases.

The vernier caliper is used to measure case lengths and overall loaded cartridge lengths.

 

[Geneseo1911]

I'm glad to see this thread, as I think I'm in the same place as the OP.
What exactly are the differences between the various die sets? In which circumstances would one be preferred over the other? Are any carbide dies going to be specifically advertised as such, ie big bold letters, or is this the common material?

 

[Dean Williams]

Geneseo1911
Carbide dies are generally only used for straight walled cases, which means most pistol/revolver brass. With carbide dies, you don't need to lube your cases for sizing.

Regular steel dies come in rifle and pistol sizes. For bottle neck rifle cases, they are what you need. You have to use case lube when using steel dies. Some folks like plain old steel dies for their pistol sizing, which is fine. You just have to be sure to lube the brass.

When you go to buy your pistol dies, they will say if they are carbide on the box and in what ever sales page you are ordering from. For instance, "45 ACP Carbide Dies".

Basic bottle neck dies come in sets of two. Basic pistol dies, whether in steel or carbide, come in sets of three. Some deluxe die sets have an extra die for things like neck sizing only (rifle), or crimp dies (rifle or pistol, depending on brand).

 

[Dave B]

RacinBob, I think you will find that on a Lee 4 hole turrent press the Lee die lock nuts are the only ones that work due to clearence problems.

 

[Racinbob]

That's a good heads up Dave B. Thanks. I never thought about that. I won't be getting rid of my Lee nuts anyway. I was also thinking going with a 3 hole turrent. might clear on that one. I don't need mass production and using the single stage to decap/size then go to the turrent to finish up. I tumble the brass a bit just to get the grit off then decap and tumble again until shiny.

 

[rondog]

TURRET!!! There is no "n" in TURRET!!! AAAARRRRGGGGHHHH!!!!!

 

[Racinbob]

Dang rondog! I never caught that! You're right. I'm an idiot. OK, you didn't say that. But you can bet I'll never make that mistake again. Not unless my typing skills get in the way again. You and everyone else here have a Merry Christmas.

 

[RustyFN]

My suggestion would be to go with the four hole turret over the three hole. The three hole will be the deluxe turret and the four hole will be the classic turret. The classic is a much better press than the deluxe.

I don't need mass production and using the single stage to decap/size then go to the turrent to finish up. I tumble the brass a bit just to get the grit off then decap and tumble again until shiny.

It is so easy to do all of that on the turret and save the single stage for specialty things. Here are a couple of links that will show you the operation of the classic turret for pistol and rifle.
http://www.leeprecision.com/html/HelpVideos/videos/Turret%20Press/loading%20on%20turret-1.wmv
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zOpN9iYOyE8
Welcome to reloading and good luck.
Rusty

 

[dae06]

Pacesetter vs. Deluxe die set

Can someone explain the difference between the Pacesetter Dies and the Deluxe Rifle Die set. I can see on their (Lees) website what is included in the Pacesetter die set, but don't really know what is included in the Deluxe set. Also if able, what should I purchase seperatly if I get one or the other.

 

[RustyFN]

The deluxe set includes the collet neck sizer, FL sizer and seater die. That would be the set to get if you were loading for a bolt gun. Loading for a AR15 you want to FL size so the pacesetter set would be better for that . If you are loading on a turret press then you will need to buy the rifle charging die to add to either set. Also the auto disk riser if you don't have it already and plan on using the safety prime.
Rusty

 

[dae06]

The deluxe set includes the collet neck sizer, FL sizer and seater die. That would be the set to get if you were loading for a bolt gun. Loading for a AR15 you want to FL size so the pacesetter set would be better for that .

I guess I'm confused. The deluxe set comes with FL sizer, but pacesetter would be better for an AR15 because it has the FL sizer???? If they both have a FL sizer, why is the pacesetter better for an AR15?

Maybe I'm reading this wrong. Please explain, I'm too new to this.

 

[rondog]

My suggestion would be to go with the four hole turret over the three hole. The three hole will be the deluxe turret and the four hole will be the classic turret. The classic is a much better press than the deluxe.

Having owned both, I heartily agree! IMO, Lee should just drop the 3-hole press from its product line altogether.

 

[TooTaxed]

RUSTYFN is correct. Both sets contain a FL sizing die,a bullet seating die, and shell holder.

The third die in the Deluxe set is a neck sizing die...sizes only the neck or bullet-holding portion of the case...which you would use instead of the FL die only for cases already fired in your bolt action rifle. The FL die would be used for all other cases. You would not use this die at all to load for a semi-automatic rifle...all fired cases, even ones fired in your rifle, shoulr be FL resized.

The Pacesetter set's third tie is a Factory Crimp Die, with both ensures the finished cartridge is formed to factory specs and provides an adjustable factory crimp. These dies are excellent, and I have purchased this die for the final crimping operation for all other makes of die sets I already have. I back off the old seating/crimping die and use it only for bullet seating.

In my view the Pacesetter set is the better set...why it is less expensive than the Deluxe set beats me!!

 

[The Bushmaster]

I don't know Rondog...I resize/decap on a single stage press and prime on the same press. I only use two holes in my Lee three hole Turret (turrent for Racinbob). If I'm using a different crimping die then I use all three holes. Other then that only two holes. You think Lee will make me a two hole turrent (turret for rondog)?

 

[rondog]

I use my 4-hole Classic as a single-stage frequently, just remove the driveshaft. I have turret rings with single dies setup in them for various things.

My point was, the 3-hole is inherently weak, the 4-hole Classic is much tougher. The 3-hole I had, I snapped the handle right in half, and also busted a turret ring on it. And the primer catch tray was awful. My Classic is tough as nails, the handle is a steel bar, not cast aluminum, the turret rings are much heavier, and the primers are collected in a tube on the bottom of the ram. A far better machine that makes the 3-holer obsolete, IMO.

 

[RustyFN]

I guess I'm confused. The deluxe set comes with FL sizer, but pacesetter would be better for an AR15 because it has the FL sizer???? If they both have a FL sizer, why is the pacesetter better for an AR15?

Maybe I'm reading this wrong. Please explain, I'm too new to this.

Sorry I should have explained it better. It's for the reasons TooTaxed mentioned. Loading for a bolt gun you will want to FL size the first time. After the brass is fire formed to that gun you can neck size from then on. For the AR you will want to FL size every time. Also the factory crimp die is great for just straightening out the case mouth from any bell that you might have put in or can be adjusted to crimp. That will help eliminate any feeding issues in the AR that you don't have to worry about with a bolt gun. I use the factory crimp die in every caliber I load because I like to seat and crimp in separate steps. I think the deluxe set is better for the bolt gun because it includes the neck sizer, and the pacesetter for the AR because it includes the FCD.
Rusty

 

[Racinbob]

Bushmaster, you pickin on me?? My stuffins are hurt. Anyway, I can see the difference in the two presses now that Rondog pointed it out. I still like the 3 hole for how I reload but I'm figuring on waiting a bit before I decide. I'm only reloading 200-400 a month.

 

[dae06]

Sorry I should have explained it better. It's for the reasons TooTaxed mentioned. Loading for a bolt gun you will want to FL size the first time. After the brass is fire formed to that gun you can neck size from then on. For the AR you will want to FL size every time. Also the factory crimp die is great for just straightening out the case mouth from any bell that you might have put in or can be adjusted to crimp. That will help eliminate any feeding issues in the AR that you don't have to worry about with a bolt gun. I use the factory crimp die in every caliber I load because I like to seat and crimp in separate steps. I think the deluxe set is better for the bolt gun because it includes the neck sizer, and the pacesetter for the AR because it includes the FCD.

RustyFN,

Thanks for clearing this up. Let me see if I understand completely. If you were me (using a bolt action) you would get the deluxe set, but since you like to crimp every round, you would also buy the LFCD too?

From reading throughout this forum I believe it is not necessary to crimp a rifle (.223) round. Not crimping will make the round more accurate (?), but will take less abuse.

Is this an accurate assumtion?