Lever action .357

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as promised:

Accurate 432-280 Plain/Flat Base (Casts 275gr w/ Lyman#2)
http://www.accuratemolds.com/bullet_detail.php?bullet=43-280F-D.png
Cast Lyman#2 (BN:14.9)
H110 powder
Mag Primer
Sized 0.432/Lyman 50-50 ALOX/Beeswax
Velocity 1,630fps (No leading at all)
Williams FP336 aperture

The key is absolutely firm/consistent forearm hold

2me8ku9.jpg
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Thanks!

That is far better than I am seeing at 50 yards even with the lighter bullet. I really like the look of that sight as well. The price is right too. Thanks for the info!
 
I've got a 79 Marlin 94c. There isn't a thing about it that isn't fun but some days I think it's almost too pretty to shoot. :)
 
After much thought I decided to roll the dice and bought a Rossi 92 .357 and thus far have no complaints. The action is a bit rough but smoothing out, trigger is good and accuracy is very good. The best loads so far are with H110 and 2400, I shoot cast bullets and the best bullet I find is Lyman 358156 cast from #2 equiv alloy sized .358. I also find Lyman 358429 to shoot well but must be seated deeper than the crimp grove by at least 1/32 in. to cycle. The bottom line is: I got a good rifle.
 
I have the Uberti 1873 in .357. It cycles .357 just fine. However .38's must be shaken into the chamber and then close the action before shooting. I was hoping for better, but alas it has not worked out to my liking. Otherwise the gun is beautiful.
 
True MEHavey, but I just started shooting .357 in that rifle exclusivey. The 38 stuff I keep is cheapo plinking rounds for revolver practice. I usually buy it in boxes of 250. The Uberti is a fine rifle. I was just disappointed my plan did not work out as I had hoped when I bought it.
 
old vs new

In this modern world of "want-it-yesterday" mentality, we have to always keep in mind that most everything is mass produced by machines. CNC machining has replaced the old hand-honed methods. In many cases, that has improved the consistency of metallic parts. Lever-action rifles are among the most complex of rifle systems. It is sad to note that functionality often gives way to speed of manufacture to satisfy the buying public's demand.

Those feeding malfunction issues with lever guns can be caused by a variety of issues. Fit and smoothness of parts are only part of it. In my 50+ years of shooting, I have learned that operating a lever rifle often requires finding the right "speed" with which to crank the lever. Too slow of operation can sometimes cause ammo to become wedged or lodged in the wrong place. Too fast an operation of the lever can cause similar malfunctions. This may seem far-fetched but old timers like me learn from experience far more than we learned from reading the latest Guns 'n' BS magazine. Yes, quality matters, but user knowledge and error are more often the culprit.

My advice for what it's worth is to take a new gun, lubricate it sufficiently and work the action over and over until it starts to "wear in" the mating parts. I've even used toothpaste as a mild abrasive to smooth out roughly machined parts. Smells like your dentist is your gunsmith!! Peace.
 
You can get 38 Specials that function in the `73 just fine, but the need to be of this variety/OAL:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/16...58-grain-lead-round-nose?cm_vc=ProductFinding


Regardless of the OAL, you might want to change your link since you accidentally linked a cartridge with a round nose bullet. This is generally a well recognized safety no-no for any tube fed lever gun.

The issue is of course that the nose of each round is pressing against the base containing the primer of the round in front of it in the tube. According to how the action works, the rounds can actually jar quite a bit against each other as they move back in the magazine.

The toggle link action of the 1873, 1866, and Henry with their straight vertical cartridge elevator may be the worst for this. Enough so, that set back of the bullet into the case can occur if the crimp is not good. That's bad enough with out having a round or multiple rounds possibly detonate in the magazine.

Primers are, or should be, slightly inset into the primer cavity, so a flat nose helps insure that no contact can be made. Even when I have bought factory ammo, I always double check the primer seating---especially if I am going to use the rounds in a lever gun.


Magtech makes several FNJ flat nose rounds plus flat nose solid lead bullets in their cowboy action line.

As far as OAL, you will have to see what works and what doesn't. I've had no problems as long as I can hit at least a minimum of 1.43 when reloading a .158 grain flat nose in my 73's. I recently picked up a older Rossi (pre-bolt safety) in .357 mag and although I haven't shot it yet, those same reloads seemed to cycle through it just fine.

Most factory ammo I have bought was at least 1.44, so I've had no issue with that.

Cheers
 
I agree as a general rule that flat nose is the way to go in tube-fed repeaters

.... BUT.... (you knew it was coming) ;)

The 38 Special/Standard velocity 158LRN is effectively a no-recoil gallery load
in the heavy `73 Win -- and the MagTech nose shape/soft lead provides
no sharp impingement.

.... BUT .... (you probably didn't expect this)

The round nose isn't real suitable for the`73's tube alignment... so you're correct. :neener:

(I do use them with success in my `92 Win though -- got'em loaded at cat-sneeze
levels for my 11-year old granddaughter) :D
 
I've got a Marlin, I've killed a few deer with it, doesn't kick even with hot .357's. Its a 100yard rifle for hunting purposes, as stated above it doesn't like wad cutters (hang us in the loading gate). Fun gun to be sure, wife loves it, just enough power to be fun with almost no kick.
 
Thanks for the responses. Today I ordered a model 92 in stainless with the 20 " bbl

Fantastic choice! I looked at one last week and the fit and finish were very nice. I have a blued 16" Trapper model which is a great rifle, very light and handy at 4.9 pounds. Accuracy was outstanding, even with the short barrel. My wife loves the Trapper as much as I do.
 
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