Lock size matters?

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perldog007

perldog007

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Regarding the Pedersoli Small Pistol flintlock, Kentucky, Many Moll, et. al: And the L&R RPL series

We have noted the handmade L&R hardened 'through'(?) frizzen locks sized to replace the CVA locks with minimal reworking. Hussah. We will raid a pawn shop for a donor rifle ... :D

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/759/1

lock-lr-01-f_1.jpg
1


Also note they have a small pistol lock. As Dog Soldier noted these are not cheap locks, but the kits are not expensive. For me, finding a CVA hawken I can live with second hand and dropping in a quality lock is an easy decision to reach.

That's my kind of four hundred dollar rifle kit right there buddy. Right at my skill level, maybe. With patience.

I'll have to read up on what folks are getting good results with projectile wise. As long as we can buy and cast it's all gravy.

I did notice that buying a Pedersoli Percussion or Flint lock replacement can be as much as one of the premium locks. But they appear case hardened to my eye.






Anybody have a good line on dimensions of various locks other than Track's life size .dpf catalogue?



However, such a ruse may not fool my flame haired Goddess aka management :)
 
perldog007 said:
Regarding the Pedersoli Small Pistol flintlock, Kentucky, Many Moll, et. al: And the L&R RPL series

We have noted the handmade L&R hardened 'through'(?) frizzen locks sized to replace the CVA locks with minimal reworking. Hussah. We will raid a pawn shop for a donor rifle ... :D

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/759/1

lock-lr-01-f_1.jpg
1


Also note they have a small pistol lock. As Dog Soldier noted these are not cheap locks, but the kits are not expensive. For me, finding a CVA hawken I can live with second hand and dropping in a quality lock is an easy decision to reach.

That's my kind of four hundred dollar rifle kit right there buddy. Right at my skill level, maybe. With patience.

I'll have to read up on what folks are getting good results with projectile wise. As long as we can buy and cast it's all gravy.

I did notice that buying a Pedersoli Percussion or Flint lock replacement can be as much as one of the premium locks. But they appear case hardened to my eye.






Anybody have a good line on dimensions of various locks other than Track's life size .dpf catalogue?



However, such a ruse may not fool my flame haired Goddess aka management :)
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wow you just saved my day! as I didn't know they made locks for like my traditions Kentucky rifle in 45 caliber flintlock as I don't like the barrels on any other of the Dixie gun works 45 caliber rifles in flintlock as they have that 1-48 twist and I like a slower twist for rounball use only! so with traditions they at lest make a barrel that has like mine a 1-66 twist for roundball use only as I like shooting roundballs!! so since I have this rifle if I could put a good lock on it then it'll be a excellent rifle for a long time and be much cheaper than some other guns I see outhere! :)
 
My original obsession with a single shot BP handgun was concerning a smooth bore 'trade' pistol using a 10-12" bbl and a small siler lock. Until we found out Sitting Fox had the kit and we might indeed get more use out of a historically whack .45 pistol... :D
I have always loved the looks of the 'cheap' Hawkens. A family friend hunted with one when I was a teen. If we can own one with a quality lock and not breaking management's tolerance.. well well well :D :D :D
 
I don't think there's anything wrong with being a cheaper rifle then swapping the lock for a quality drop-in replacement. In fact, I think it's a pretty good idea for a shooter not looking to spend a ton on getting a reliable flintlock. The barrels that come on say the Lymans, Traditions, etc. are usually good shooters but the performance of their flintlocks can be iffy at time. I am thinking of adding a drop in L&R lock to my Lyman Great Plains rifle flinter.
 
Not wishing to be a "wet blanket" but the L&R locks are not exactly "drop-in." A fair amount of fitting and inletting/wood removal is required. I have installed several of these locks on both Invest Arms, Lyman GPR and CVA rifles. While not difficult, they did take some effort to get them fit correctly.
 
I have been advised of same by the L&R folks, and our pawn shop is rife with hawkens from hunters who switched to inline for deer . I would like to work up to it. I'm just now butchering my first 'skill level one' kit. Enjoying it actually but there are books full of things I don't know about shaping and removing wood. Need to read one or two get a few more kits done.
 
Curator said:
Not wishing to be a "wet blanket" but the L&R locks are not exactly "drop-in." A fair amount of fitting and inletting/wood removal is required. I have installed several of these locks on both Invest Arms, Lyman GPR and CVA rifles. While not difficult, they did take some effort to get them fit correctly.
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Very wise and timely advise. Properly seating a lock does not allow for mistakes. :thumbup:
 
Curator said:
Not wishing to be a "wet blanket" but the L&R locks are not exactly "drop-in." A fair amount of fitting and inletting/wood removal is required. I have installed several of these locks on both Invest Arms, Lyman GPR and CVA rifles. While not difficult, they did take some effort to get them fit correctly.
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and I don't mind the work just need the pros help and education from here! :)
 
a sharp dato model builders knife kit will be a must, and remember you can always remove a little wood, but you can,t add any. go slow with lamp black or other marking ink-dye. and a better lock is a good idea. good luck. eastbank.
 
Dog Soldier said:
Yes, sounds like you fellows are going to make some improvements. Adding a good lock requires a good vent. The speed of ignition depends on the type of vent. The Chamber's Lighting vent will complete your up grades.

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/960/1/THL-W4S
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My holes are drilled out to 3/32, never needed a vent on any of my FL but could always drill one in if I did...also a later period double throated lock.....I have a similar one done by Bob Roller years ago.
 
You are staying with the basic ignition of the past. The high end English guns used gold to vent the flash holes. This is used for accuracy and increased velocity as opposed to just a flash hole. Once the erosion begins in the flash hole it is oblong. The groups will open up.:)
 
Dog Soldier said:
You are staying with the basic ignition of the past. The high end English guns used gold to vent the flash holes. This is used for accuracy and increased velocity as opposed to just a flash hole. Once the erosion begins in the flash hole it is oblong. The groups will open up.:)
Click to expand...
Hve you seen the YouTube by a Native going by the moniker "Bad Hand' with what looks like a Sitting Fox Blanket gun. The man claims that the guns were cut down for Calvary use and materials scavenged, not that these were damaged guns cut down. Also claimed that the vent hole was drilled out to leave frizzen closed and simply charge the pan by loading and shaking...
I found it interesting... ETA, Just got an email from Tim at L&R. If I send him a tracing of my lock he will let me know what's close if anything in their inventory. He will be getting some business from me.
 
eastbank said:
a sharp dato model builders knife kit will be a must, and remember you can always remove a little wood, but you can,t add any. go slow with lamp black or other marking ink-dye. and a better lock is a good idea. good luck. eastbank.
Click to expand...
Well I have to do better than I did scribing the line for my skeg on the curved bottom of my dory. I got it right exactly on the second try.... so yeah i need get studious..
 
Dog Soldier said:
Very wise and timely advise. Properly seating a lock does not allow for mistakes. :thumbup:
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The local smith opines that he will do it for basically the price of a lock. But he says I should learn to do that myself. Claims it's not as much art as patience and knowledge. Experience is having to buy another stock.... So that brings the tab up to around 750 with a decent bore having pawn shop donor rifle.
Management is convinced she can find a kit NIB 'second hand'. She does have some kind of Celtic warrior princess scourge of the yard and clearance sale thing. My problem related to THIS issue :)D ) is that I like the CVA hawken, live near PA and want a decent lock. A sensible man would just get a good flinter, or buy the plastic one and make do. That would be way too uncomplicated for my life. Those alien licenses are pricey and a flinter is the gate key to being in the woods with friends while every body else is "Christmas Breaking". So the exact implement becomes a 'Book of the Five RIngs" situation for the well read.
 
If you have the talent then you should pursue it. I lack the ability to do presentable gun smithing. I would most likely use that money to purchase a nicely built rifle.:)
 
perldog007 said:
Hve you seen the YouTube by a Native going by the moniker "Bad Hand' with what looks like a Sitting Fox Blanket gun. The man claims that the guns were cut down for Calvary use and materials scavenged, not that these were damaged guns cut down. Also claimed that the vent hole was drilled out to leave frizzen closed and simply charge the pan by loading and shaking...
I found it interesting... ETA, Just got an email from Tim at L&R. If I send him a tracing of my lock he will let me know what's close if anything in their inventory. He will be getting some business from me.
Click to expand...
Actually the modern Napoleonic Armies used muskets with over sized flash holes. The musket was loaded and the butt was pounded on the ground. This allowed the pan to charged and speeded up the loading.
Many Buffalo runners charging from runing horse blew the barrels off their smooth guns. They continued to use them as they were easier to load.
 
perldog007 said:
Hve you seen the YouTube by a Native going by the moniker "Bad Hand' with what looks like a Sitting Fox Blanket gun. The man claims that the guns were cut down for Calvary use and materials scavenged, not that these were damaged guns cut down. Also claimed that the vent hole was drilled out to leave frizzen closed and simply charge the pan by loading and shaking...
I found it interesting... ETA, Just got an email from Tim at L&R. If I send him a tracing of my lock he will let me know what's close if anything in their inventory. He will be getting some business from me.
Click to expand...
I recall reading about Revolutionary War musket pans being charged by loading the main charge then slamming the butt on the ground to shake powder out thru the flash hole into the pan.
 
Dog Soldier said:
If you have the talent then you should pursue it. I lack the ability to do presentable gun smithing. I would most likely use that money to purchase a nicely built rifle.:)
Click to expand...
You let that slow you down? Truthfully if I ever want anything that will photogenic I'll have to get help. I have a twisted appreciation for old work boats, military rifles that are survivors, old beat up hunting rifles with the patina of a well loved gun. Stuff like that.
Now wood finish is a different story. For most store bought rifles a 'RTF' or 'in the white assembled" build is for me, outside of a few artisans who really do nice plain work. Even walnut, I want to see that grain and not some stain.. don't like shiny bright. Love the look of well rubbed linseed on honest wood. I do like Tung oil on some woods though.
 
idk about the finish specifically, but Mike B took down his lock several times in his TOW build video and I've seen them browned on some sites.
 
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