"Loctited" Screws on a Scope Mount

[Kurt S.]

How do I get screws out that have been put with a liberal dosage of loctite? I am trying to change out the scope and mount on my Marlin .45-70 and I think the folks that mounted it must have used a lot of the stuff or something like it on the screws. I got the scope off okay (FYI, the rings are integral with the mount) but boy-howdy those screws holding the mount on the reciever are in there good. They are Torx heads and I have actually broken off the tips of not one but two drivers! I think I can get the broken tips out, though.

A solution that doesn't involve drills and retapping screw holes would be good if anybody has one.

 

[atblis]

Done quote me on this

An impact screwdriver perhaps?



You should be able to get a little heat on them with a micro torch.

 

[ZeSpectre]

Kroil oil will eventually break down most versions of lock-tite if you let it set for a few days. Useless against the RED stuff though.

 

[ken grant]

I use a large Soldering Iron on the head of the screws and heat them up.
It has always worked for me.

 

[atblis]

Yeah

I bet the soldering iron would work great.

 

[Kurt S.]

Muchas gracias, y'all. No impact driver but plenty of Kroil, got a soldering iron and butane minitorch somewhere.

I'm still kind of hoping that maybe loctite wasn't involved at all, the screws just naturally tightened themselves from recoil of those great big bullets. I've seen screws tighten themselves up from vibration before.

Trouble is, I have to get that mount off to put a different mount and high rings on. I'm going from a little 2-7x33mm to a scope with a 56 mm objective.

 

[waterhouse]

I've gone so far as to use a hot glue gun (no glue) to heat up the screws. Even that will work, but a soldering iron is a lot better.

 

[atblis]

56mm

Why are you putting a 56mm obj. scope on a lever action 45-70?

 

[kart racer]

An industrial heat gun will do it too.Don't know if a hair dryer will enough punch.

 

[Kurt S.]

Ha! I was hoping you'd ask.

atblis said

Why are you putting a 56mm obj. scope on a lever action 45-70?

I get hogs coming around my stand in low light conditions. I figure the 56mm objective along with a lighted reticule will help me pick them off a little better. I need all the help I can get.

I don't really need much magnification, even with my "mature" eyes, on my piney woods east Texas lease so the mag power is kind of a waste. A 60 yard shot is a long one there, and that's only because the landowner, a timber company, cut a turnaround right by my stand.

Here in Texas hogs are classed as exotics for hunting purposes. The regulations are really relaxed as to how and when you can take them, especially on private land. Most landowners regard them as oversized fire ants or even worse as giant ambulatory fecal matter. However, they are good eating.

I guess I could put a rail on my WASR AK clone and mount a flashlight and laser device on it, which would actually be legal for pigs here. But it would certainly get me talked about and heavens to betsy I wouldn't want that.

 

[mrmeval]

As stated heat gun. You won't normally find heat resistant loctite as it's very expensive and not in ordinary use.

 

[ken grant]

With a Torch or a heat gun, you will heat up a much larger area around the screws and even maybe get heat where it is not needed or wanted.
A large Soldering iron will keep the heat on mostly the screws and has always worked well for me.

 

[Geno]

Yes, heat is the solution. No, hairdryer won't cut it. Anything that sets by heat, also reverses by heat...concrete, cement, expoxy, LockTight, etc.

 

[Onmilo]

Regular old propane torch with a fine tip or solder tip in place works great too.
It won't get hot enough to affect the finish on the rings and if it does discard the rings, they are probably cheap junk.

 

[KINGMAX]

Sodering iron

I have broken screws loose using a touch of breakfree - apply - let it sit awhile, then apply the tip end of the sodering iron to the head of the screw, get it hot - it should 'BREAK FREE'

 

[brickeyee]

"You won't normally find heat resistant loctite as it's very expensive and not in ordinary use."

Not true. Any of the loctite 'staking' formulas are pretty heat resistant.

The blue colored thread locker is not heat resistant at all and it just takes a little heat to break it free (and it beats buggerig up screw slots or hex recesses).

The red loctite (sold most often for staking head studs on engines) needs a little more heat, but 300F or so usually get it.

The green stuff used to stake bearings is good to over 400F.

 

[mrmeval]

400 or less isn't the heat resistant version I'm familiar with.