scope mount screws

[moooose102]

i was trying to remove the over/under (see through) scope mounts from my reminton 700 today. all of the screws are locktited. when i tried to remove the screws that hold the mounts to the action, the screwdriver tip broke off! how can i get these out without damaging ANYTHING? i have no idea what kind of locktite it is. but what i really do not want to do is break a screw off in the action! if it wouldnt take 1&1/2 months, i would just take it to my local gunsmith.

 

[rcmodel]

If they used Red LockTight, you will have to heat the screw up with a propain torch until it smokes off.

You should also always try setting a screwdriver in the slot, then smacking it with a hammer first, before you even try getting them out.

Lots of times that will pop a tight screw loose.

rcmodel.

 

[machinisttx]

You should also always try setting a screwdriver in the slot, then smacking it with a hammer first, before you even try getting them out.

Lots of times that will pop a tight screw loose

+1

They make a specific tool for that, it's called an impact screwdriver. I've had decent luck with them.

 

[Chawbaccer]

If you feel queesy about using a propane torch on your gun you can try a high wattage soldering gun, just hold it to the screw and let the smoke emanate.

 

[moooose102]

THANKS GUYS! the soldering gun trick worked great! 3 minutes on each screw and they walked right on out. there is no way i would have taken a propane torch to my gun. i would have taken it to the gunsmith first. i don't know enough about guns, metalurgy, and blueing to take a chance on doing that. i wouldnt take a chance on ruining a gun for the sake of a little time or money.

 

[Geno]

For my part, I mount my scope bases with lock-tite in the screw threads, and epoxy under the base. Those who use Ken Farrell bases know what I am talking about. It is the norm for this base.

That brings me to my next point. Whatever substance either sets-up by, or gives off heat in the process of setting-up, must be reversed by the same process...heat.

I agree with the soldering iron, but I personally use a 900 degree wood burner to do the same. Avoid the propane torch at all costs. A torch distributes the heat across far too wide an area. An electronic device allows a pin-point application of the heat...screws only.

After applying the heat for a few minutes, I take a brass punch, and a 1 pound brass hammer, and give the screw head a very light tap. When I begin to remove the screws, I do so very slowly and do not force it. If it does not come out fairly easy, I reapply the heat.

Good luck,

Doc2005

 

[Moosehunter]

Thanks moooose102 for asking that question. I was trolling the web looking for the answer to that very same question. And thanks chawbaccer for the soldering gun answer.

I am now gonna go remove the over/under mounts from my 7mm browning, which I have twisted the head off of 3 screw drivers trying to remove.

Thanks again.

 

[Jeff F]

Use a good hot soldering iron on the screw head, I have had good luck using a soldering iron on small screws. You may have to keep it on there for a minute or more.