Armored farmer
Member
No lube touching powder or caps.
Keep it dry...
Cap it with good fitting quality caps.
Should keep a looong time.
Keep it dry...
Cap it with good fitting quality caps.
Should keep a looong time.
The research I ran across indicates the chain fire comes from the the back of the cylinder, usually due to loose fitting caps. Most likely gonna stir up a few folks by saying that, I go along with that particular theory. Loading a loose ball that drops in instead being a press fit would be a good way to test this, but it might provide some embarrassment if the gun is pointed down. I guess the main thing to point out is load the thing the way it was intended to be loaded, you know, proper sized caps, ball thats a press fit.
I am experimenting with keeping a C&B revolver loaded. If I load it with real BP without lube, I get chain fires. If I store it loaded with lube ( I have tried a wonder wad under the ball and alternatively, bore butter on top of the ball), the lube seeps into the powder. I notice significantly less recoil.
Has anyone had any luck storing a loaded revolver and not experienced a loss in effectiveness?
I am experimenting with keeping a C&B revolver loaded. If I load it with real BP without lube, I get chain fires. If I store it loaded with lube ( I have tried a wonder wad under the ball and alternatively, bore butter on top of the ball), the lube seeps into the powder. I notice significantly less recoil.
Has anyone had any luck storing a loaded revolver and not experienced a loss in effectiveness?
I didn't notice if the cap went off with the chain fires. I didn't notice if it was the same chamber. I had a chain fire with a paper cartridge, although there was no card between the ball and the powder. The projectile is a Hornady .454 ball. The caps are CCI #11 (which is all I can find). I seal the caps with a piece of vinyl tubing cut to a length of about 3/32 inch. I seal the nipples with a with a piece of vinyl tubing that I cut about 3/32 of an inch long. This holds the caps on after firing and reduces (not eliminates) cap jams.Hello Running Man,
I have a couple questions about your "chain fires",
Does the Cap on the chain fired chamber go off?
Is the chain fire always on the same chamber?
You might want to try paper cartridges with a card between powder & ball.
For anyone else experiencing chain fires, things to document.
If the cap has ignited on the chain fired chamber.
If it's the same chamber going off.
What type of revolver it has happened with, and condition of revolver.
Not trying to start an argument here,
but I believe true chain fires come from the front of the cylinder.
On a brass framed 1851, I do know some frames are badly damaged and
a cap can ignite from the ring on the frame. But this is not a chain fire.
If you do experience chain fires, please document what really happened.
AntiqueSledMan.
I am shooting Hornady .454 balls. I shave a ring of lead when I seat them.Have you actually gotten a chain fire, you may be using an under size ball. I keep one loaded, often for extended times. I use no lube. The main advantage to lube is controlling fouling. Can always add lube over bullet when you shoot out the "stored loaded" rounds.
I use antiseize from autoparts store, tiny amount applied with tooth pick, good for 1 yr or when really used alot..been doing it that way for 6 yrs with no problem or binding.I have read that grease should be applied to the nipple threads to prevent rust on them. Has anyone had a problem with the grease contaminating the powder? I detail strip and clean, including the nipples, after every shooting session.
I didn't notice if the cap went off with the chain fires. I didn't notice if it was the same chamber. I had a chain fire with a paper cartridge, although there was no card between the ball and the powder. The projectile is a Hornady .454 ball. The caps are CCI #11 (which is all I can find). I seal the caps with a piece of vinyl tubing cut to a length of about 3/32 inch. I seal the nipples with a with a piece of vinyl tubing that I cut about 3/32 of an inch long. This holds the caps on after firing and reduces (not eliminates) cap jams.
The gun is a Pietta Colt 1860 Sheriff's model. I bought it new early this year. I am the original owner. It is unmodified. There are no apparent defects.
I have put hundreds of rounds through it using both Pyrodex P and Goex FFFG. I have had zero chain fires with Pyrodex, lubed or dry. I have had zero chain fires with real BP if I used lube, either wonder wads behind the ball or bore butter on top of the ball. Given that I have never had a chain fire with lube, and that I seal the nipples with the vinyl tube, I am inclined to think that the chain fires are from the front of the cylinder.
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I have put hundreds of rounds through it using both Pyrodex P and Goex FFFG. I have had zero chain fires with Pyrodex, lubed or dry. I have had zero chain fires with real BP if I used lube, either wonder wads behind the ball or bore butter on top of the ball. Given that I have never had a chain fire with lube, and that I seal the nipples with the vinyl tube, I am inclined to think that the chain fires are from the front of the cylinder.
Hawg or Hawgy (banned here?) who posts on the Remington and Colt Forum IIRC has a steel frame 1960's era open top colt style revolver who's chambers are oddly shaped. The mouth of the chamber is tighter than the chamber itself, resulting in all balls loaded into it being undersized. He can get that pistol to chainfire easily.
I've never had a problem leaving a C&B loaded for a few weeks at a time, ensuring chambers were thoroughly dried before loading.
The longest I've ever left a C&B loaded was 30 years. It was the Lyman NMA on top in the pic. Loaded it in Aug 1989, never got around to shooting it, then put it in my safe (decapped) and forgot about it. In 2019 I dug it out, capped it up and 3 out of 6 fired first try, the other 3 went off with a second cap.
View attachment 1027770
Cool guns, especially the one Remington at the top!
If my understanding is correct, Lyman was the importer but who was the manufacturer of that beauty right there?
That's the reason I came up with this idea:I am experimenting with keeping a C&B revolver loaded. If I load it with real BP without lube, I get chain fires. If I store it loaded with lube ( I have tried a wonder wad under the ball and alternatively, bore butter on top of the ball), the lube seeps into the powder. I notice significantly less recoil...
That's the reason I came up with this idea:
View attachment 1042352
I am confident that this O-ring will effectively seal chamber from moisture and flame coming from font end. However, as usual, "the proof will be in the pudding". I am in contact with Miha from MP-Molds https://www.mp-molds.com/ , and hopefully, beginning of next year we will have a first mold made, and will be able to test new bullet. Will keep you posted.