Looking at a Luger ... I know little.

[Waveski]

I looked at a Luger at LGS today. I always thought in the back of my mind that I would like to have one , but was not actively looking at this time. I know a bit about the P.38 ; I am overwhelmed when I look at the wide range of P08 manufacturers , years built , etc.

What I saw was a DWM in 9mm , marked 1917. Not collectable , but seemingly in decent condition for its' age. The magazine has the wooden bottom. Grips are nice. Shop owner said he test fired and all was well. I was initially told that it was all matching , but several small parts are numbered 52 ; the predominant number being 1757. Is the 52 an odd parts number , or does it represent a mismatch? If it is a mismatch it would not be the end of the world as I am looking to have a shooter , and I would just like be able to say that I own a Luger.

Asking price is $1200. I don't see many in that range ; the ones I do see are usually in poor cosmetic condition and/or mismatched.

Please view the images. I am interested to know anything you folks can share regarding the desirability of a 1917 DWM , the value , and so on.

Thank you , Waveski

 

[Waveski]

Disregard this edit.

 

[rdstrain49]

the two digit number on many small parts represents the last two digits of the serial number. What you are looking at is a mismatched weapon. Not saying it's not a good weapon, it's just not any kind of collector. $1,200 would be a bit high around here for that weapon. BTW the Lugers, (P08) are kind of fun to shoot but as for real accuracy, not so much. The Post war alloy frame P38 on the other hand is not so collectable and accuracy is nothing short of amazing. From my point of view, a hand gun that won't shoot 2" groups at 25 yards, 4" at 50 yards is not worth keeping. My P38 far exceeds this.

 

[Waveski]

Road strain 49 - I do have a P1 alloy P38 , as well as a mismatched WWll shooter , and an all matching byf 43. Yes they are fun to shoot.

I believe the Luger price is negotiable. Would $1000 be a good price ? I don't see a lot of availability at that price.

 

[rdstrain49]

Around here (Central Iowa) if I wanted one in really good shooting condition and mis-matched #s, I'd try to get it for $800 but would probably go to $1,000 if I had to. It would have to be very nice.

 

[Walt Sherrill]

. BTW the Lugers, (P08) are kind of fun to shoot but as for real accuracy, not so much.

I've had three -- two Soviet captures and a collectible. Don't have any now. I'd consider another if I can find a "shooter" at non-premium prices.

The two shooters were all=matching numbers except for the side plate, one was a tackdriver, and the other was good but not outstanding! The best one had a badly corroded barrel (inside, near the chamber). The best was one of the most accurate 9mms I've owned. Both needed parts replaced at different times (not a problem), and getting good mags was critical for reliability. Both were far more accurate than the one P-38 I owned (an all-steel Manurhin that looked like new, and came with proper waffenamt markings/stamps.)

 

[Waveski]

And , what would you consider non-premium prices?

 

[Walt Sherrill]

$600-$800 +/- if the gun is in good shape (and I can see, handle, and maybe strip it before I send money...)

 

[Eugen]

Waveski, just to confirm what many others above have said; that Luger you are looking at is over priced. You can get a good condition shooter (non # matching) for $800, just do a little more searching and be patient. Go to Luger forums and post that you want to by a shooter in the WTS/WTB section. You will get responses.
http://forum.lugerforum.com/index.php

 

[Chevelle SS]

I got a 1918 this spring that was a mismatched reblue for $760

 

[tark]

That trigger side plate is from another gun, as others have mentioned. $800 tops. If you want it badly enough..... its your wallet

 

[Waveski]

Chevelle -

I would have taken that deal too.

 

[NIGHTLORD40K]

Yep, might get a good shooter, but $700-800 is more appropriate around here.

 

[If1HitU]

I got a 1918 this spring that was a mismatched reblue for $760

I like this one!

 

[Monac]

That gun has a lot of eye-appeal, Chevelle SS. Did it turn out to be a good shooter? Have you tried any reproduction magazines in it, like a Mec-Gar? And I am hoping that wood-bottom magazine your photo is NOT Mitchell production, because I've had lot of trouble with those.

 

[Chevelle SS]

That gun has a lot of eye-appeal, Chevelle SS. Did it turn out to be a good shooter? Have you tried any reproduction magazines in it, like a Mec-Gar? And I am hoping that wood-bottom magazine your photo is NOT Mitchell production, because I've had lot of trouble with those.

Shoots well, bore is ever so slightly frosted but groups decent. The mag is not original, only holds 7 rounds, not sure on the brand. Also that is plastic at the bottom of the magazine, not wood. Never tried other magazines.

 

[Chevelle SS]

Some offhand 8 yard shooting.

 

[Waveski]

I had the chance to test fire the 1917 DWM mismatched Luger today. Function was ok , EXCEPT toggle did not lock back after last round discharged.

My untrained eye could not detect the cause of the malfunction. Anyone willing to enlighten me?

 

[Walt Sherrill]

With most semi-autos, when the slide doesn't lock back it's because the spring in the mag isn't pushing up on the follower strongly enough to engage the slide stop mechanism. Replacement springs are available. (That said, it's been years since I had my Lugers...) Magazines are a notorious cause of problems with the Luger. I suspect that a new Mec-Gar Luger mag would likely fix that problem.

 

[Waveski]

When I loaded the magazine the spring seemed quite hardy. After the test shoot I swapped mags from another Luger , a Mauser - the one from the DWM worked in the Mauser Luger ; the one from the Mauser did not work in the DWM. I suspect that something else is at fault. Shucks.

 

[Walt Sherrill]

There is a "hold open Latch" and a "hold open latch spring" and it may be that the spring is weak, broken, or missing. If you can find a good parts diagram, that may be worth investigating. Asking about this on one of the LUGER-centric forums might be a good idea, as well. (I've got an old NRA "Firearms Assembly II" Guidebook to Handguns that is pretty complete and has a good parts diagram.)

The GunDigest Book of Automatic Pistols Assembly/Disassembly (4th Edition) is worth its weight in gold, and if there's a 5th edition and you have other guns, its money well spent. Check Amazon. (It shows how to remove and reinstall all parts including the hold open latch and spring.)

I never had a need to detail strip any of my Lugers -- I tend to NOT detail strip unless something is broken --, so I'm less familiar with that aspect of Luger function than some Luger owners -- but from the diagrams it looks as though, if the spring is weak or missing, the latch can't raise up enough to hold the toggle assembly open.

 

[Monac]

Chevelle SS, Mitchell mags were notorious for holding only 7 rounds. It was ridiculous - to me, the whole reason for making a reproduction 9mm Luger, instead of something like a .45 Luger, was that the 9mm was a proven, well established design that would need little de-bugging. And they could not even make the magazines right! Oh, well, that's water long under the bridge.

 

[PaFrank]

I had the chance to test fire the 1917 DWM mismatched Luger today. Function was ok , EXCEPT toggle did not lock back after last round discharged.

My untrained eye could not detect the cause of the malfunction. Anyone willing to enlighten me?

Yes, a couple things.... Others here have mentioned possible mechanical malfunctions, but from my experience, I'm betting it is the ammo, and I'll bet you were using 115 gr ammo, am I right?

The Luger was originally designed to fire a 147 gr projectile. My 1940 byf will not reliably cycle any 115 gr load, but will always function correctly with the 147's and most of the 124's ( i forget the brands).. I'd try some 147 grain loads before you go swapping parts..

 

[1911WB]

In the first place the Luger was originally designed to fire the .30 Luger round. Later to meet German Army requirements it was redesigned to fire 9mm (124 grain bullets). However, 115 gr. bullets usually work fine in my 9mm Lugers if everything else is working properly. Try MecGar Luger mags. Then see if the holdopen device and attached leaf spring are in place- the spring is delicate, so be careful if you remove the holdopen to inspect it. The spring should have a gentle downward taper and shouldn't have creases or kinks.

 

[Jim Watson]

The Luger was originally designed to fire a 147 gr projectile.

I don't think so. The 1903 test Lugers the Army got to compare with the 1900 Test Trials 7.65s were shot with 124 grain bullets. Two loads, ca 1040 fps and 1090 fps.

That said, a friend's 1923 Finn with Tikka 9mm barrel shoots my 145 gr subsonics better than any other load tried.