Looking at this K frame

[1976B.L.Johns.]

I just can not figure out what model this is.
38 S & W Special,6 inch barrel, serial number is23XXX.

I've been on the internet going in circles and in two of my Blue Books of gun values.

Can you straighten me out?




I'll check back tonight.

Thanks in advance!

 

[GRIZ22]

Model 14 made before they used model numbers. Aka Target Masterpiece.

 

[UncleEd]

Serial number should be on the butt of the gun. Include letter prefix to number.

 

[reddog81]

Looks like a K-38 Target Masterpiece which became the model 14. Similar to the model 10 but with target sights. Also similar to the model 19 but the model 19 had recessed charging holes, a shrouded ejector housing, and was chambered in .357 Mag.

 

[ontarget]

^^^What they all said.^^^

 

[J-Bar]

Agree, K38 Masterpiece. The Patridge front sight was discontinued in 1952. If that 23xxx has a K in front of it, it would date to 1947-48. Photos of the right side and bottom of the butt would help.

 

[1976B.L.Johns.]

Serial number should be on the butt of the gun. Include letter prefix to number.

Agree, K38 Masterpiece. The Patridge front sight was discontinued in 1952. If that 23xxx has a K in front of it, it would date to 1947-48. Photos of the right side and bottom of the butt would help.

Yup, K in front of the serial number.
Thanks a lot guys!

Learned something new again today.
Did not know the revolver was that "old", not having a model number.

Thanks to all, again!
Stuff like this makes THR a great place!

 

[UncleEd]

Those are the wonderful diamond stocks. See if the right panel has
the serial number etched into its backside to match the gun. Stocks were
individually fitted back then because of slight variances in the guns' handles.

 

[orionengnr]

Beautiful revolver BTW...

 

[1976B.L.Johns.]

Those are the wonderful diamond stocks. See if the right panel has
the serial number etched into its backside to match the gun. Stocks were
individually fitted back then because of slight variances in the guns' handles.

Thanks.
Okay, I tried to.
Got my gunsmithing driver set out ,the grips feel like they are glued.
Put the screw back in.
I will try again when I am sober tomorrow.
Happy hour lasted a bit late..........

 

[Walkalong]

Jump on it if it checks out and the price is anywhere near decent.

 

[1976B.L.Johns.]

That is my plan.

I have lots of 38 special loaded. I sometimes feel it is wrong to fire those off in a 357 revolver!

Oh, I also think I need another handgun!

 

[Riomouse911]

Very nice K-38 you have there! If it shoots as well as it looks, and I have no reason to doubt it doesn’t, you will be very happy at the range.

The K frame S&W revolver is a very addicting piece of metal. The first K-frame you get will often sprout rimfire and centerfire companions of various barrel lengths before you know it.

Let us know how it shoots when you get a chance.

Stay safe.

 

[1976B.L.Johns.]

Let us know how it shoots when you get a chance.

I will try to keep that in mind.
The deal is not done yet.
It had some surface rust on it that I cleaned up for no cost.
But regardless, I believe it will find a new home.
MINE!

 

[ontarget]

The K frame S&W revolver is a very addicting piece of metal. The first K-frame you get will often sprout rimfire and centerfire companions of various barrel lengths before you know it.

Oh, preach on brother Rio! Preach on!
Words more true have never been spoken.

 

[CajunBass]

Thanks.
Okay, I tried to.
Got my gunsmithing driver set out ,the grips feel like they are glued.
Put the screw back in.
I will try again when I am sober tomorrow.
Happy hour lasted a bit late..........

Those old stocks were tight. Here's a trick. Back the screw out, then, leaving the screw in place by a thread or two, CAREFULLY tap on the head of the screw with a small hammer, while holding the gun to allow the grip to move. That will push the grip away from the frame. Once you get a gap it's easy to remove one side, then other. Don't try to force a knife blade or something like that between them until you have a gap opened up like an idiot I know well did some years ago. Just light taps on the screw head. It will come loose, just don't try to force it.

Nice gun. I'd be tempted by that one too. I had a '48 model myself many years ago now. Good shooting gun. It made even me look like I sort of knew what I was doing.

Also...Don't worry if the finish isn't a bright shiny blue. It took Smith and Wesson a number of years after the Second World War to get back to a bright shiny finish. They continued with varying degrees of flat finish until well into the 50's. Some models faster than others.

 

[1976B.L.Johns.]

Those are the wonderful diamond stocks. See if the right panel has
the serial number etched into its backside to match the gun. Stocks were
individually fitted back then because of slight variances in the guns' handles.

Here's a trick. Back the screw out, then, leaving the screw in place by a thread or two, CAREFULLY tap on the head of the screw with a small hammer, while holding the gun to allow the grip to move.

Did as CajunBass suggested.
Presto!

Yup, numbers match!

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

Howdy

Agree, K38 Target Masterpiece. First introduced in 1946, became the Model 14 in 1957.

This one with Serial Number K761XX shipped in 1950. Note the narrow rib on top of the barrel, later versions had a wider rib.

A close up of the hammer. This hammer was known as the 'speed hammer', an early version of the current 'short throw' hammer.

This is the later version of hammer on a Model 14-3, which shipped in 1974.

 

[1976B.L.Johns.]

Posting some more pictures.





On page 1803 of the 35th edition of Blue Book of Gun Values and page 1890 of the 42nd edition it states that the K-38 Target Masterpiece has a 5 screw frame and a narrow barrel rib.

Am I correct in assuming that this K-frame is not that pre-model 14?

I only see 3 screws and the rib is a bit less than a quarter near the front sight and a bit wider at the back sight.

 

[1976B.L.Johns.]

Note the narrow rib on top of the barrel, later versions had a wider rib.

That helps a lot!

Thank you!

So serial number K 23XXX would have been built when?

 

[J-Bar]

The 4th screw is under the right grip scale near the knuckle (or prawl) and the 5th screw is in the front base of the trigger guard.

My estimated year of manufacture, 1948, is as close as I can get from the Standard Catalog. You can get a factory letter ($100 or so) for a more exact date.

 

[1976B.L.Johns.]

The 4th screw is under the right grip scale near the knuckle (or prawl) and the 5th screw is in the front base of the trigger guard.

My estimated year of manufacture, 1948, is as close as I can get from the Standard Catalog. You can get a factory letter ($100 or so) for a more exact date.

Got it!
Thank you J-Bar!

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

Look at the photos I posted above. There are four screws fastening the side plate to the frame. One screw is hidden under the top corner of the grips. There is another screw in the frame angled up in front of the trigger guard. That makes it a "Five Screw S&W". In time, the screw in front of the trigger guard disappeared, as well as the screw up at the top corner of the frame near the hammer, making most of the later Smiths "Three Screw" Smiths.

Here is a photo showing the ribs on two K 38s. The narrow rib in the foreground is the rib on the 1950 K 38 I posted above. The wide rib is on a K 38 from 1957, just before the name change to Model 14. The front sight on the one on the right is actually incorrect, it was reshaped by a previous owner.

Another view of the two ribs. The one on the right is similar to what you have.

Because you have substituted three Xs at the end of the serial number it is a little bit difficult to pin down exactly when it shipped.

According to The Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson, by Supica and Nahas, K frame (the size frame your revolver is built on) range of serial numbers for 1954 was K210096 - K231255. The range of K frame serial numbers for 1955 was K231256 - K266164.

That should tell you when yours shipped.

 

[J-Bar]

Are there 5 or 6 numbers after the K? Your original post indicated 5 numbers. The Standard Catalog lists the serial numbers for the year of introduction of the pre M-14 as K615 to K18731, and for the pre M-15 and 18 as K18732-K73121 in 1948. So 23xxx doesn't match either one exactly.

If your gun has 6 numbers after the K then Driftwood Johnson's post gives the correct years.

 

[1976B.L.Johns.]

Thanks Driftwood Johnson!
From another Johnson.
Made in 1955?

If your gun has 6 numbers after the K then Driftwood Johnson's post gives the correct years.

Just five digits.
Checked it many times.
Now I'm confused.
Could the factory have missed the last number?