Looking for a 3" traditional fixed blade with kydex...

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Noah

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So I have a weird request- I've been looking around for awhile and am looking for something very specific. Figured you guys could help :)


I'm looking for a fixed blade, preferably stainless, with a 3" or less blade, full handle, and enough of a finger guard/choil to be good for defensive use on the minimal chance it ever had to. I also really want it with a simple kydex sheath I can lash to my belt.

Two or three catches- it needs to be very inexpensive, preferably a blade where the tip is low relative to the spine (ie a modified wharncliffe, leaf shape, low clip point, etc. I don't like full drop points for EDC use) and I really want something with some character, that would look at home in the forests of North America in the 1700s, wood, leather, or bone scales, worn looking blade, something like that.

Help? Or even point me to an affordable custom maker who would love to make and sell a guy a little traditional fixed blade in a kydex sheath? Does anyone let you send them a drawing of a little knife and then make it for you? :)
 
Sam Cade, our Moderator

See the posts by our Moderator, 'Sam Cade'. If you ask via PM he will give you contact information.

I'd imagine, because he is a Moderator, he doesn't advertise.

Keep us informed.

salty
 
You need to establish what is "inexpensive" to you since it is different than what is inexpensive to me.

You also need to establish what finish level you expect since finishing can add considerably to the cost of a knife because it is time consuming.

You should consider looking at knife kits to see if there's something you can assemble yourself since that can save you money putting your labor into it.
 
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Inexpensive? I am very unfamiliar with custom knife work, I honestly don't even know what to do for a ballpark price. As little as possible?

Finish doesn't need to be done or very complete, just a shaped, sharpened and ground blade with scales pinned on and a kydex sheath. I could sand and shape the scales myself as well as put a finish on the blade. I am actually wanting something "rough" looking, and would love to put my touch on the elements of the knife I actually have the tools and capabilities to do myself. :)

Thanks for that link hso, even if I don't use a kit for this one, I expect I'll be buying some of those at some point! I want to get into knife making eventually, I just don't have the time, skills, or equipment yet as I am living on campus as a full time student right now. My school has a specific rule allowing the carry of 3" knives though.

Picture0927141318_1.jpg

I reshaped and refinished this old, broken and rusty Solingen chef's knife I found in an old barn. That's about the limit of my experience. Once I am home for the summer I'll probably start working with kydex and blade kits. :)
 
I honestly don't even know what to do for a ballpark price. As little as possible?
Click to expand...

Noah,

You know what you can afford so you need to establish that first before anyone can give you any recommendations.

You should consider that to get a hand ground stainless knife similar to your sketch for under $100 with the assumption of a satin finish and a sheath is going to be a challenge. Think about what the maker's time is worth and then what it takes to grind and heat treat, much less what the assembly and finish and sheth bending/fitting involves.

The seven links I provided give you an idea what a finished heat treated blade costs ($20-$75) for knives that are cranked out. Never buy any blank or kit that doesn't fully identify the materials.

Where are you attending?
 
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Cedarville University in Ohio.

I think I have something worked out with Sam Cade for this one. :) I know time and work is worth quite a lot, I hope I didn't give the impression I was trying to low ball someone. By "ballpark" I didn't know if this might run $60, $100, or $150, I simply don't custom knife prices. I'll learn ;)

"as little as possible" meant $50-100, I wasn't thinking the $20 of a mass produced Chinese knife. Hope I didn't offend anyone.
 
There are knife makers within a couple of hours of Dayton and you that might be able to give you some pointers on making yourself some day when you have time.
 
Noah,
what you seem to be looking for is available with good looks and mass produced. Look at the knives on Ragnars Forge. If you want kydex/plastic sheath it will not look like anything in the 1700s. But there are over a dozen knives with great steel in them on that site alone that are under $20 and will be around to be handed out as heirlooms to grand kids. If you go up to $120 you can get great knives in wooden/leather sheaths with high carbon or stainless steel. These are in the same patterns and better steel than the Scandinavians brought into Canada and the northern area of what became the US. Mostly the Scandi knives feature short blades, up to 4" maybe 5", with or without finger guard. If you think that they are cheap or don't last, I have a Bruseletto Troll that has been used for woodcarving, cleaning fish, elk, deer, skinning coyote and caping out buffalo. You couldn't get me to sell it, its too good a knife.

blindhari

If you don't think these can be a self defense knife, the WWII Wehrmacht learned differently
 
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I'm well aware that kydex isn't period accurate ;) It's just my preferred choice for belt carry.

Thanks for the help and ideas guys, I'll have some good places to start this summer. For this knife, I think I've got something worked out with Sam Cade. Excited already!
 
Based on a quick profile, Noah's design is pretty good. It is feels a swole up 15OT.

I like that it gives a bit of knuckle clearance.

attachment.php

This one is thin enough (and quite a bit thinner than what he wants ;)) stock that it might get a scandi grind.

I'll put it up in the other thread when it gets done.

attachment.php
 

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Wow, that's cool to see! :) I liked the roomy handle on that Solingen knife I refurbished, and then the modified wharcliffe-ish blade shape on a Spyderco Pacific Salt and a few of Kershaw's knives. Little bit of belly and a low tip that blends with the choil and thumb spot for good detail work, but still tough. Cut some apples and tape, open boxes, plastic, and letters, and get some work done in the shop and at the campground, and ready to be used defensively like Michael Janich's Yojimbo too. ( <- see what I did there?)
 
hso said:
What about a full height? Zero at the top and down to the cutting edge?
Click to expand...

It would be mighty slicey and it can be done, though I think if I was going to make a dedicated slicer close to this pattern I'd probably start with the blade square and forge in the belly then profile from the spine side.


Come to think of it, I did a shop mule that is pretty close to Noah's pattern a while back.


attachment.php
 
That is pretty similar Sam! Just change the angle of the handle compared to the blade a bit and you're there.
 
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37084.jpg


The blades from "The Last of the Mohicans" are probably my favorite out there. A little out of my budget and size range though!

A mini version of this knife would be pretty cool though :)

This guy did a "modern" take on the same knife:

LOTMstyle.jpg

I'm a fan ;)
 
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