Looking for a 38 (Preferably S&W but not set in stone)

[Beukeboom]

At the moment I own only one handgun, a 38 S&W Airweight that my Dad gave me after I got married back in the 80's. It was my favorite gun to shoot when he took my brother and me out to work on our shooting skills. Frankly I'd love to do some target practice but there are no public firing ranges close by that I know of. There was one commercial indoor firing range a couple of years ago but closed after only a couple of years in business. I used to have a friend in the country where I could go and do some practice shooting but he sold his property and moved out of state.

Anyway, I am truly not up to speed concerning technical firearms information so please consider me somewhat of a newbie ready to learn and accept advice and information.

I am interested in obtaining a 2nd 38 revolver and wouldn't mind staying with S&W but I would consider other manufacturers. My current 38 has the 3" barrel and I believe it was manufactured around 1979 (based upon some info I found online). It has fixed sights. I was advised by a gun shop clerk not to use +P ammo with this gun but apparently that's what I've fired in this gun with no problems. I will purchase non +P rounds from now on. I'd like something similar in a 38 revolver. Recommendations?

Also, I'd like advice on purchasing a used handgun. What should I look for in a used revolver? What defects, damage, etc. should I look for? Is there any advantage in purchasing at gun shows vs. pawn shops? What about mom & pop gun shops with used weapons? What sort of price range am I looking at?

And probably a dumb question...is it legal to purchase ammo online to be shipped to my home? It's been quite difficult to get 38 ammo around here. I managed to snag some 38 ammo while on a trip to visit my inlaws in Mississippi at a small gun shop and he split a box of Remington ammo into two bags of 25 loose rounds of which he had one left. It seems the only reliable way of getting 38 ammo is online. Not that I need much since I don't shoot much anymore but if I do find a firing range I can use I'd like to have a box or two onhand.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Ruodo]

Wow lots of questions.

Look at these revolver:S&W Model 10 or 15 or a Colt Detective Special. Those should be in the $500 and under range IIRC

Gun shows can be overpriced but you might get lucky and find good deals, plus you have a much much larger selection than shops.

And yes you can have ammo shipped to your house.

I skipped a couple of questions that I didn't know the answers to.

 

[ramis]

Welcome to the high road Beukeboom.

I am interested in obtaining a 2nd 38 revolver and wouldn't mind staying with S&W but I would consider other manufacturers. My current 38 has the 3" barrel and I believe it was manufactured around 1979 (based upon some info I found online). It has fixed sights. I was advised by a gun shop clerk not to use +P ammo with this gun but apparently that's what I've fired in this gun with no problems. I will purchase non +P rounds from now on. I'd like something similar in a 38 revolver. Recommendations?

Are you dead set on .38 special? Buying a revolver chambered in .357 magnum will allow you to shoot both .38 special and .357 mag. You'll have more revolvers to choose from too.

If you are wanting something around the same size, a ruger Sp101 or a S&W model 60(might be what you have?) are two good choices. Or a ruger Gp100 or a S&W model 686 if you want something bigger. What are you planning on using it for?

Also, I'd like advice on purchasing a used handgun. What should I look for in a used revolver? What defects, damage, etc. should I look for? Is there any advantage in purchasing at gun shows vs. pawn shops? What about mom & pop gun shops with used weapons? What sort of price range am I looking at?

Revolver checkout thread.click me

And probably a dumb question...is it legal to purchase ammo online to be shipped to my home? It's been quite difficult to get 38 ammo around here. I managed to snag some 38 ammo while on a trip to visit my inlaws in Mississippi at a small gun shop and he split a box of Remington ammo into two bags of 25 loose rounds of which he had one left. It seems the only reliable way of getting 38 ammo is online. Not that I need much since I don't shoot much anymore but if I do find a firing range I can use I'd like to have a box or two onhand.

It's perfectly legal to have ammo shipped to your house. It just a matter of finding some in stock somewhere! Here's a couple of good sites to check.

http://www.ammoman.com/index.htm
http://www.wideners.com/
http://www.ammunitiontogo.com/

Thanks in advance.

No problem.

 

[calaverasslim]

+1 with ramis. While I am not a fan of the 357, what he sez is right. You can do both in one. He mentioned a couple of 357's but here are a couple more for your consideration. S&W M13, M65, M19, M66. I have the M65 and I keep it loaded with +p for my wife, for HD. The 38s are on the J & K frames, while the 357s are on the K & L frames. Not sure, but I believe the M28 357 is on the N frame

I personally prefer the 44 special. While it is on a N frame, with the proper grips, you can control it quite easily. I have the M21, M22 and M625. I used the M22 mainly for carry. Mine are all 4" models.

Some folk like the Rugers. They are great guns but I prefer the S&W so thats what I have.

So there you are. Bunches to choose from.

Good luck

 

[Oro]

First off, whoever said you can't shoot your modern airweight with +p is an ignorant dog-dangle. Ignore that person's advice from here on out and don't consider that store very reliable if that is the caliber of person they hire. A local store I now recently fired a guy for telling a customer their gun was worth more than it was - they so badly mis-identified it and took it in on consignment for about 2.5x it's real worth. Credible gun dealers are out there, so there's no reason to deal with bad ones.

The big question is, what do you want to use the other gun for? You already have a really good carry gun, so is the other gun for plinking or target shooting, or "heavy" carry? For most of those purposes, my all-time favorite .38/357 is the pre-lock 4" S&W 686. Check out the link posted above: price to try to pay now is $450 to $475 for a good one locally or online.

I have four or five other .357s, and a 45 colt and 44 magnum. But even in grizzly country I feel so confident with that 4" 686 I'll carry it with stout hunting loads over the others. It's an awesome weapon, especially with smooth (aka, "plain") wood target grips. They are a pricey option, but I am now a serious fan of them after lots of magnum shooting:



A Model 28 as mentioned is also very, very good. It's not going to handle quite as well as the 686, but it will be as sturdy and reliable (and possibly a few dollars cheaper). If you find a good example of one of those affordably, do NOT hesitate to snap it up. 19/66's are good for 357's, also (a 2.5" 19 is my by far favorite carry gun), and in .38 only your should look at the S&W models 15/67. Very sweet handling and shooting guns. If a 6" barrel intersts you, look at the model 14's.

 

[Beukeboom]

Since I've been asked what I plan to use the second gun for, here's the answer:

Home security for my wife to use if necessary (she also grew up shooting her Dad's 38 and prefers it) and also target shooting if I get the chance. I don't collect guns per se since I cannot afford it but am just wanting something similar to what I already own.

Also re the +P ammo...so the 38 airweight from 1979 is able to handle +P ammo without any issues? I guess the guy just wanted to unload the ammo on someone. I hope it's reliable ammo.


If anyone can ID the date of my revolver, the serial number on the bottom of the handle is J901895

 

[rainbowbob]

For your stated purposes, you could do no better than an 4" S&W Model 15.

Easy handling for your wife in SD mode - GREAT target shooter.

I'm a little biased because that is what I recently acquired to fill the same bill. And I absolutely love it. It makes me a better shooter than I thought I was.

 

[Beukeboom]

How much does a S&W Model 15 run? What's a good price for a pre-owned one?

 

[sidheshooter]

I'm assuming from your post about your airweight being a 3-inch that it is a 5-shot J Frame, yes? Should look a bit like this:

I'd go for a 3 or 4-inch K Frame next; in either .357 (13, 65, or 19 and 66 etc. as mentioned above) or the same in .38 (10, 64 or the adjustable sighted 15 again, as mentioned above to name a few examples).

Those are great shooters, IMHO. I love my 3" J for carry, but my main SD revolver is a 3" model 65 .357-currently loaded with a hot version of the classic "FBI" 158g LSWCHP load. Notice that I am not the first to post about the 3" 65, nor will I be the last...

 

[Lou McGopher]

Get a Taurus. No reason to spend extra for the name.

 

[aHFo3]

A great way to check specific gun model prices is to look on http://www.gunbroker.com
You should set up an account so you can check buying history. Looking at history will give you an accurate idea of what guns are really selling for, not just the pie-in-the-sky prices that some sellers are hoping for. Keep in mind to add shipping and transfer fees to the prices listed.

I prefer to buy a local gun I can touch, especially when it's a revolver. Be wary on gunbroker, and make sure you can trust the buyer.

Look at lots of revolvers and perform the checkout when you look at them, so you can experience the difference between good and not-so-good.

Also, if you like the fixed sights on your Airweight, you might like a model 10. You can find deals on them if you look and are patient.

Good luck!

 

[senior]

.38s

No one had mentioned it yet, but my .38/.357 model 640 is one to check out for HD, yes its a little heavy (23oz i beleive), but it sure cuts down on recoil from .38+P or even .357 if u want to use it. Just remember, the vast majority of home imvations are at night, and that .357 will omit a flash resembling lightning in your face and will also result most likely in loss of hearing inside a building, without protection.

 

[rainbowbob]

How much does a S&W Model 15 run? What's a good price for a pre-owned one?

Well...there are the mythical ones I keep hearing about that everyone but me finds for $200-$300.

...And then there is the near-mint condition one I found on a local gun forum and happily paid $475 for in a face-to-face transaction.

 

[doc540]

Colt dick

 

[JWF III]

Get a Taurus. No reason to spend extra for the name.

+1

Or you can look at the usual avenues and get an older S&W or Colt for the same price, and it will only go up in value. It may only keep pace with inflation, but the NEW Taurus will only go down in value, while inflation goes up. So you lose two fold there.

Guns are similar to car in this respect. You can't really go wrong buying a good used car (or gun). But future prices are directly dependant of brand and model. A late 60s Ford Pinto is worth practically nothing, but a Mustang of the same year is worth a good bit more. Same goes with Smith and Colt. Conversly, a 2009 Honda Civic will sale for close to what a late 60s Mustang (with correct options). But in 5 or 10 years, try to sale the Civic for what the Mustang will be worth. Same goes with a Smith or Colt compared to a Taurus here.

Yes Taurus' are good guns, I'm not saying that they aren't. But in future sales, they'll never be worth what the Smith or Colt will be.

But in the end get what you're happy with.

But I do agree with the others, don't limit yourself to just .38s. I recently found a great cond. S&W Model 28-2 for just $230. An N-frame will never be an ideal (concealed) carry weapon, but at the range, with .38 Specials, they can be extremely pleasant to shoot. And the good buys are out there. Just be patient.

Wyman

 

[ArchAngelCD]

If anyone can ID the date of my revolver, the serial number on the bottom of the handle is J901895

That serial number will puts your revolver to late 1981. The book I'm using lists the models for that serial number as the Models: 36, 37, 38, 49, 50. You didn't tell us what model you have but if it's an Airweight it will be either a M37 or M38. The M37 is a Cheif's Special with an exposed hammer and the M38 is a Bodyguard frame with a shrouded hammer. (although a M38 with a 3" barrel is very scarce) Either is a great revolver although I prefer a Bodyguard myself. BTW, a 1981 M37 is not rated for .38 Special +P ammo although many do believe it can be used. S&W will tell you not to shoot +P ammo from that revolver.

If you're looking for a good range and home defense revolver I would suggest a 4" S&W M686 or 4" Ruger GP-100. Both are .357 Magnums which will easily handle .38 Special +P ammo.

 

[Beukeboom]

Mine has the exposed hammer. And it was given to me in 1986 so a 1981 manufacturers date is probable.

Everyone, keep in mind that I am not up to speed with current gun terminology so n-frames and other such terms are things I know little to nothing so try to explain to this newbie. I just shot firearms growing up for target practice and hunting. I didn't get into details other than cleaning them and my Dad did most of that.

 

[JWF III]

An N-frame is the large frame S&W. Same frame they build the .44 magnum on. Makes it heavier for carrying, but a pleasure to shoot. Model numbers are in the 20s

The K-frame is the midsize fame that a lot of the older .38 Specials were built on. Some .357s were built in it also. Model numbers in the 10s.

The L-frame is a beefed up K-frame. Many (if not all) grips are interchangable with the K, so physical size is the same. Just the extra beef. Model number in the ? (still kind of new to this myself).

The J-frame is the small frame that many of us use for a CC weapon. Model numbers in the 30s.

On the newer (1970s-present) models, once they (model numbers) get into the 60s all bets are off. There are J's, and L's in the 60s. Same goes with the new three digit model numbers, but there you can see some symblance of the old model number system. IE the 325 and 329 are N-frame guns (referenced to by the 25 or 29) and the 3 is the finish (Black Nitrite). Same goes with 6xx's models. The 6 refers to a Stainless gun.

Then there is the X-frame. It's home to the 500S&W and the 460 S&W.

In the Ruger line, the SP frame is closest to the J-frame, just a little beefier. The GP frame is closest to the L frame, again (maybe) a little beefier, and the RH frame is closest to the N-frame.

As far as Colt's go, I defer to someone that knows more of their frame sizes.

Hope this helps a little. But like I mentioned, I'm still kind of new at this DA revolver thing. Someone may come along and correct me on something. Trust the expert, not me.

Wyman

 

[S&Wfan]

Hi,

You'd love a 3" barreled version of the S&W Model 65 (stainless) or its blued brother, the Model 13 3."

These are great home defense guns . . . barrels are long enough for some serious accuracy, yet short enough that a BG is less apt to be able to grab the gun out of your hands by the barrel in a dark room.

The 3" versions command more money than the same guns in 4" for two reasons:

1. They are rarer (since the cops bought so many 4" guns)
2. They are really, really COOL!

Here's my M65 from 1984. What a great shooting revolver indeed . . . and it still will be long after I'm dead and gone. Quality is that way!!!

BTW . . . the Model 65 and 13 are fixed sight .357 revolvers . . . which of course shoot .38 Special ammo too! They are great guns!

I disagree with the Taurus suggestion. You'll probably never need your gun but, if you do, you want the best and most reliable weapon as possible. IMHO, that means a S&W revolver. Taurus revolvers sell for less . . . and then their value plummets after that. Shooters who know revolvers, prefer the S&W ones. So do gunsmiths!

T.