Looking for a new rifle

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Because they have a reputation, that is somewhat deserved, as Jam-O-Matics, though if used correctly, are accurate and reliable guns.

See I thought that issue was magazine related. One magazine does like to cause jams, but the other works really well. He does prefer the 740 over the .303 Enfield he barrowed in the 80s from a family friend. Hopefully getting to the range either tomorrow or this Saturday. Only have a box of Federal Fusion 150gr. Was going for LeverEvolution, but didn't see any surprisingly. So have a few things to get the rifle next, along, scope, scope rail of some sort and rings. I'm kind of leaning towards a pic rail of only a few inches, Midwest Industries mounts since they can hold zero when you remove the scope and mount. Scopes I'm looking for something that's similar stainless steel color, in 1-4x30 but only coming in black mostly. Not sure how black and predominantly stainless goes together.
 
Took the. 30-30 to the range today. Recoil is a bit more tamed than .308 but not as much as I was thinking. After 30 rounds, my shoulder hurts a bit and is bruised. So either I'm not shouldering it correctly or that many rounds will do a shoulder in. Tried 150gr Federal Fusion and 170gr of the same stuff. No difference in felt recoil. Did pick up a recoil pad, just incase I am a little whip. My best group was about 1moa for 3 shot, even though I was going for 5 shot groups. I know I was flinching a bit at first because I wasn't sure what to expect and it's been quite a while since I've been shooting. May do some adjustments to the rear sight, but my closest target was 25 yards (bare minimum allowed at the indoor range) and that had my worst grouping of 3moa. Best group was 45 yards.

Scope I'm going to get is a Bushnell 1-4x24mm AK scope. Reason being is 7.62x39 and .30-30 bullet drop is really freaking close to being identical for any given distance. So I figured being close enough it'll work well. Scope mount will be a Midwest Industries QD 30mm with no offset or get one with 1" offset. Not sure if the rear sight on the rifle will interfere though, any ideas? Going to use a short picatinny rail.

No feeding issues. Only issues was short shucking the lever. But no issues with the round not going into the chamber at all. Just the loading gate is super stiff. May either have Marlin work on that or gun smith. I don't feel comfortable adjusting that spring or filing down whatever burr or metal is scratching the brass.

Have a stupid question, but how much pressure would it take before a bullet could set a primer off while loading? I was very uprehensive with loading the rifle just incase a round did go off because of loading. Getting use to it though. Also picked up a round holder sleeve that goes over the buttstock. Just need the rail, mount, scope and sling and it'll be completed.

http://bushnell.com/tactical/riflescopes/ak-optics/ak-1-4x-24mm

https://www.midwestindustriesinc.com/product-p/mi-qd1smhd-blk.htm
 
Just picked up my scope today. It's the Bushnell AK riflrscope in 1-4x24mm. Need to still get the picatinny rail and Midwest Industries mount. Fortunately Cabelas had the scope on Clearance for $179, so that saved about $50 over original price, and it was just their display model left.
 
I prefer plastic centerfire rifle magazines to metal. They are very tough, don't bend into troublesome shapes, and generally are quieter. Look how many more AR-15 magazines are plastic rather than metal. Not saying one is better than another for every application, but it's the 3rd millennium...

I'm sure the Tikka mags are tough, I don't like that it is difficult to top load that rifle. One reason I prefer the Sako Finnlight, just a better made gun, if you don't mind paying for it.
 
Just need to mount the scope and it's good to go. Tried Hornady LeverEvolution today which is 160gr and also did Federal 150gr ammo, with the recoil pad, it's so much more manageable and my shoulder isn't hurting.

The last bit besides the scope is get the lever and trigger guard machined so it doesn't dig into my hands and also get the annoying burrs out of the loading gate so it doesn't scratch my brass anymore. Recoil pad is a huge 11 out of 10 on likeability.
 
I have a Tikka T3 lite in 7-08. I consider it pretty close to ideal. I just shot an 8 pt buck and a nice doe. Both off hand across a swamp walking between deadfalls, brush and trees. The first was 100 yards and the second 150 yards. The big buck dropped like a ton of rocks. The doe trotted a few steps and I shot her again. Turns out the first shot was fatal but she just did not drop right away. The flat shooting accurate low recoil 7-08 allowed me to thread the needle, and for a bolt action got back on target quickly. Also the rifle is light to carry and climb with. I had to shoot too quickly to take a rest position. I don't think a heavy rifle helps hunting. It was raining and snowing or I would have used a Remington 7400 in 30-06 with a bigger scope. I also have an AR in .223 that works ok but is bulky and less handy to use. Also no AR cartridge has performance of the bigger cartridge at all angles.
 
I'd use a bigger objective on the optic than 24mm and you'll easier find Weaver mounts than a rail for a lever gun methinks. My fave woods/mountain/whatever all around rifle sports a Weaver 2x10x40mm in Millett rings mounted on Millett mounts. The only rifle I have with a picatinny rail is my M4. Everything else is Weaver or Millett mounts. You'll find a 40mm or larger objective is far better at dusk or dawn in low light, especially in the woods.
 
Well I did pick up that picatinny rail from Midwest Industries, Nikon 30mm AR10 type rings for the Bushnell 1-4x24mm AK scope. I did look through it quite a bit at dawn and it was pretty good. I did have to turn on the red illuminated reticle, because of the low light, the grayish brown background with snow. It did well for myself at least. Might upgrade in the future for s different scope.

The one thing I have run into was, on deer opener, it was snowy/rain mix and being out all day, the top of the rear iron sights, and part of the loading gate started to rust...even after I dried it off. Parts of the barrel did have light pitting. Kind of ticked me off. Wasn't expecting that to happen on my first official outing with the rifle.
 
Does anyone have a good way to remove rust and light pitting from a rifle and preventing it in the future? I'm think I may get the rifle and scope cerakoted in the near future to help out.
 
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