looking for sugestions for a first handgun

[Eskimo Jim]

MedGrl,
I'd echo most people's advice.

22lr revolver such as S&W 617 or their discontinued 17 or 18 if you can find them. You can't beat a 22lr revolver or automatic.

22lr auto pistol Ruger Mk II, Mk I or the new Mk III. Since the Mark III came out you might find a good deal on a used Mark II because someone else just has to have the latest Mark III. cheap to shoot.

Semi auto center fire, 9mm because it is cheap to shoot. I'd stick with a full sized auto. 9mm is probably cheapest to shoot.

S&W model 66 or 686 4" barelled revolver in 357 magnum or Ruger GP 100 both in 357 magnum because you can use light 38 special ammunition and work up to 38 special +P and 357 magnum ammunition. A 357 magnum revolver is probably the most versatile handgun.

Good luck

-Jim

 

[JJJJ]

I haven't yet figured out how to put a quote from an earlier post in a box, but CAnnoneer, the statement below from your post seems contrary to most of the advice I've seen about revolvers versus autoloaders. Can you explain, or can anyone else comment on this? Thanks.

"Finally, IMO revolvers take more maintenance (than the reliable makes of autos) and more things can go wrong with them if not serviced properly, which is something of a liability for novices."

 

[CAnnoneer]

I haven't yet figured out how to put a quote from an earlier post in a box, but CAnnoneer, the statement below from your post seems contrary to most of the advice I've seen about revolvers versus autoloaders. Can you explain, or can anyone else comment on this? Thanks.
"Finally, IMO revolvers take more maintenance (than the reliable makes of autos) and more things can go wrong with them if not serviced properly, which is something of a liability for novices."

Hi JJJJ,

I am happy to elaborate my position.

1)
The distance between the barrel and the cylinder is very important in performance. Too little distance and buildup of unburnt powder can produce a jam. Too large a distance and the revolver spits sparks and burning powder sideways, while the muzzle velocity of the slug is decreased. Some revomen suggest distances set for a thickness equal to the width of a credit card - that's between the frame and the cylinder. IMO, this means you either have to have a new revo or you must know what you are doing to set it right, or you have to go to a gunsmith, especially if you buy used. All of this for me is a pointless hassle.

2)
Depending on how old a revo you buy, you may or may not have a transfer bar or a similar safety device. Without it, you must carry hammer down on a spent cartridge, or you are asking for a hard blow on the hammer to produce accidental discharge. Again, you need to know what you are doing.

3)
Revolvers have small parts that are exposed to the elements far more than the parts of a modern auto. For example, lint, pieces of paper, paper clips, and other junk can get into the works and interfere with proper function, e.g. cylinder can get blocked. And that, at a disopportune moment. Again not something I'd look forward to.

4)
Sustained fire from a revolver collects crud and powder, making extraction of shells and putting new shells in more difficult. Also, shells that do not get in completely can stick out enough to lock the cylinder.

All of the above problems either do not exist or are far less likely or more manageable with good autos like Ruger and Glock. For example, cylinder distance is irrelevant and crud accrual is less critical because of inbuilt clearances, especially with the Glock. Cylinder spitting sideways obviously does not happen because there is no gap or cylinder. Also there is no cylinder to lock up.

On the other hand, autos can jam, but a good auto with quality factory ammo virtually never jams. I have fired thousands of rounds through my Ruger KP89T and the four times it stovepiped on me was because I was getting tired and limpwristed it.

I agree that all guns require at least some maintenance, and while I do not hate revos, I prefer autos for the above reasons, among other things.

 

[only1asterisk]

Despite CAnnoneer's dissent, the 4” medium frame .357 is probably the best first handgun for 85% of people if a defensive capability is required and initial cost is a factor. It excels as both a marksmanship trainer and self defense tool. While the .22’s have the advantage of negligible recoil and low cost ammunition, they sorely lack the defensive capability you want.

Another choice might be a 9mm pistol. Ammunition is less expensive than the 38 Special or .357, but there trade offs. For the same money you get better accuracy and a better trigger pull from the revolver. The revolver also allows you increase you recoil tolerance starting from well below any factory 9mm and slowly building to well beyond what the 9mm is capable of.

My advice is: Buy a 38 Special, .357 or 9mm and borrow the .22. To be specific, a medium frame S&W or Ruger 357 magnum with a minimum barrel length of 3” or an all steel 9mm with an absolute minimum 3.5” of barrel (4” or longer preferred). Stainless steel construction and adjustable sights and desirable features as is a single stack magazine on an auto. I’d avoid large frame revolvers and check the trigger reach on whatever handgun you consider. Your hands aren’t particularly petit so you should have plenty of options.

Specific revolver models to check out:

Smith & Wesson 38 Special Models

J (small) frame: Models 36 (carbon steel) and 60 (stainless)
K (medium) frame: Models 10 and 64 (fixed sights) 14, 15, and 67 (adjustable)

Smith & Wesson 357 Magnum Models

K (medium) frame: Models 10 and 64 (fixed sights) 14, 15, and 67 (adjustable)
L (medium/large) frame: 581 and 681 (fixed sights) 586 and 686 (adjustable)

Ruger Models

Small Frame: SP101 (found in both 38 Special and 357 Magnum)
Medium Frame: GP100 (found in both 38 Special and 357 Magnum)
Medium Frame: Speed Six, Security Six, Service Six (found in 38 Special, 9mm and 357 Magnum)

Specific 9mm pistol models to check out:

1911 types in 9mm
Star BM
Smith & Wesson 5906
CZ 75
Kahr K9
and many, many more…

David

 

[icehouse1]

Sig

Sig 226 9mm.