Looking to Start Reloading

[Hooda Thunkit]

So I have to buy a $200 scale?

Oh, mercy me, no !

Look on eBay for used reloading scales. Find an RCBS 502 or 505, make sure it measures in grains (not grams), and pay about $30-50 for it.

Or, watch the classifieds, ask around, check with folks at the gun club.

 

[Visionairy]

So I have to buy a $200 scale?

No, but you will want one, or if not that then something else. The point I was trying to make with my $750 number is that once you've spent your $400 and made 2 range trips worth of ammo, you're going to find a bunch more things that you "need". It's a new hobby you're signing up for, not a money saving exercise. I prefer a digital scale but in my experience you have to spend some dough for one that doesn't float all over the place and seems reliable. That's $100-200. My first one was $250 and I felt quite justified buying it, and satisfied. Replace my "digital scale" with your own little reloading tool fetish and you're going to spend some more money. You can plan ahead of time what you'll need, but you can't plan what you'll want. You will be buying more **** you just learned you wanted, and soon.

That said, I still recommend buying a $29 Lee Loader and knocking out rounds with hammer for a while, then move on.

 

[kmw1954]

I don't normally make recommendations on a specific product But I will make 3 suggestions;
https://www.titanreloading.com/lee-...lee-reloading-kits/lee-value-turret-press-kit
https://www.titanreloading.com/lee-...oading-kits/lee-classic-cast-turret-press-kit
https://www.titanreloading.com/lee-precision-reloading-equipment/lee-presses/lee-pro-4000

The safety Scale isn't the best or easiest but it is accurate and usable until you can find a scale that suites your needs and style better. With these turret press kits all you really need to add are dies and you can be reloading. These are all very dependable presses and if kept clean and lubed will last a very long time for loading any pistol and most small bottleneck cases. Also the initial outlay isn't that great and if you find you are just not into reloading they do resale well, just follow ebay for a short time and you will see for yourself.

Also as commented on by a few others they will produce very accurate rounds and can easily put out 150 rounds per hour on the turret press and double that on the Pro4000.

I am not a high volume shooter or reloader and I still have a Pro1000 progressive press and a Pro4000 and can easily produce 200 rounds per hour and that is with still weigh checking every 20th round and measuring finished rounds and inspecting each round as it comes off the press and then putting it into a finished ammo box. I use the progressive press not so much to increase speed but to reduce workload.

Yes I weigh check loads that frequently, every 10 to 20 rounds or each time something doesn't feel right. Also with using the Lee Auto Disk or Auto Drum measure I have found them to be so accurate with the powders I use that I could easily check at the beginning of a run and then every 50 rounds but an old habit dies hard. As I have stated before, these measures with the powders I use are so consistent that they are boring.

Now recently I have started working as a range officer at an outdoor range and have been mainly working on the 200/300yd rifle range and have since by talking with these shooters I an finding that long range shooting and reloading is a whole different ball game than loading defensive pistols or your average hunting load.

 

[LiveLife]

So I have to buy a $200 scale?

Oh, mercy me, no !

Look on eBay for used reloading scales. Find an RCBS 502 or 505, make sure it measures in grains (not grams), and pay about $30-50 for it.

From post #3 - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/looking-to-start-reloading.871380/#post-11563698

Dillon Eliminator beam scale $90 - Built in USA to same spec as Ohaus 5-0-5 (I believe it is still made by Ohaus) - https://www.dillonprecision.com/eliminator-balance-beam-scale_8_7_25215.html
​

Lee Auto Disk ... I have found them to be so accurate with the powders I use that I could easily check at the beginning of a run and then every 50 rounds ... these measures with the powders I use are so consistent that they are boring.

And "Pro Auto DIsk" can be boringly consistent even after 1000 or 2000+ rounds.

 

[Average Joe]

I would ditch the beam scale, and go for a digital scale, you will end up with one eventually anyway, so might as well get it first.

 

[kmw1954]

I would ditch the beam scale, and go for a digital scale, you will end up with one eventually anyway, so might as well get it first.

And that is why we get choices.
I have used electronic digital scales at work and I don't trust them. I do use my beam scale frequently while reloading and even on it I check Zero often. I have been looking at a digital scale for the purpose of check weighing my cast bullets where a couple grains off won't make much of a difference..

 

[LiveLife]

I would ditch the beam scale, and go for a digital scale, you will end up with one eventually anyway, so might as well get it first.

I beg to differ.

If you inquire most reloaders, they have gone through digital scales while their beam scales kept working with Earth's gravity.

If OP was to get beam and digital scales, I would suggest still getting the Dillon Eliminator beam scale (on par with Ohaus 5-0-5) and cheap digital scale to do fast weight verification along with check weights for both.

 

[MikeInOr]

Since you are new to reloading I would stay away from a progressive press, there's too many things that need adjusting at the same time to make frustration free ammo. Start out with a single stag press.
To me Lee products look like they are cheaply made, sort of like the cheap tools at harbor freight. I've used some of their products and they eventually wear out or break. Spend a little more money and buy tools that won't wear out in a relatively short period of time. I started out with one of the RCBS press kits and it has held up very well.

30 years ago I started with an used RCBS 4x4 progressive. I loaded a good bit of bad ammo and got a good education on squibs before I sold it along to the next sucker (I warned him at least) and bought a Dillon 650. I pretty much learned on my Dillon 650 and all the issies I had on the 4x4 disappeared!

Looking at the Lee Auto Breach Lock Pro it looks a whole lot more like my RCBS 4x4 than my Dillon 650. Reviewing the video on Midways site just now I see a WHOLE lot of places for a newb to mess up (or even a pro to mess up). The Lee Auto is NOT what I would recommend for a starting press.

I would highly recommend a Lee Classic cast press! Simple, heavy, plenty good enough quality... it should last a life time... and be a great single op press when/if the OP is ready to upgrade to a progressive.

 

[Targa]

Whatever scale you go with check weights our your friend.

 

[LiveLife]

Looking at the Lee Auto Breach Lock Pro ... Reviewing the video on Midways site just now I see a WHOLE lot of places for a newb to mess up (or even a pro to mess up). The Lee Auto is NOT what I would recommend for a starting press.

I disagree. And what qualifies one as a "pro" reloader anyway?

See what I mean? Discouraging comments from someone who don't even own the press ...

And the OP already posted the budget of $200-$400 - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/looking-to-start-reloading.871380/page-2#post-11565973

I have Dillon 550 and 650 with case feeder and sure, I would gladly help a new reloader get set up on a Dillon 750, but with a budget of $200-$400, not doable. With the OP's budget, it's either single stage press, turret press or Lee progressive presses. While I think starting out with a single stage press is a good idea, loading the round count of OP's semi-auto pistol calibers may be tediously slow. That's why I suggested OP consider getting a single stage press for loading rifle cartridges and ABLP/Pro 4000 for pistol cartridges.

And based on my actual usage, Auto Breech Lock Pro/Pro 4000 is a great progressive press for the newbie to start out for these reasons:

• Pull out the index rod and use the press as single stage press
• Run a case at a time and use the press as turret press
• Very easy to switch from small to large primers - Simply swap out primer arms already stored in the on-board tool storage rack
• Filling and refilling primers is very easy - Simply dump out primers from factory tray and shake to flip primers and close cover
• With dies mounted on locking bushings, swapping out different caliber dies is easy and fast
• And feeding primers into the priming arms? Align the Safety Prime and chute will feed down to last primer
• Shell plate timing? No need, as holes in shell plate aligns with guide rod ... If shell plate goes out of timing, simply reverse ram lever a bit and shell plate timing auto corrects
• I think the only area where a new reloader may have some issues is adjusting the case feeder but Lee Precision updated the case feeder/slider system to Universal Case Feeder and no more Z-bar (I bet you weren't aware of many update changes made to Lee presses over the years). Instead, we have a spring coil that smoothly actuates the slider back and forth. Get the height properly adjusted and modify the case collator with a hole drilled in a penny to insert a spent 22LR case and you are collating 9mm brass without unwanted flipped cases

So keeping OP's budget of $200-$400 in mind, consider that OP is going to need caliber changes. With ABLP/Pro 4000, caliber changes can be done easily and at lowest cost.

And did I mention that ABLP/Pro 4000 is capable of producing finished dimensions on par with Dillon 550/650?

 

[Reloadron]

Plenty of good advice and you will find endless threads on the subject and some stickys for good measure.

Several years ago my brother wanted to get into reloading so for Christmas my wife and I gave him a RCBS ROCK CHUCKER SUPREME MASTER RELOADING KIT. Now as mentioned the kits have advantages and disadvantages. The same is true of all starter kits so RCBS was just what I got. My reasoning was simple in that I did not want to start making a list of all the needed individual items and start ordering them all piece by piece. Considering it was a Christmas gift to my brother I took the easy route. He only needed to add a decent caliper set and maybe a few other items. Anyway you need to take all the information posted here and weed through it and figure out what works best for you with your budget and any other other considerations. Again, for my purposes I saw the kit as convenient.

My first press was an old used single stage about 50 years ago and it worked out fine for me. I later added a few Lee Progressive types, a Rock Chucker and even an old Lee O Press. Likely some of the best match ammo I load is on the old rock chucker but to each their own. The Dillon stuff is great but came along. for the most part, after I was already butt deep in presses. Think about it and get whatever trips your trigger. I have seen nice used stuff very reasonably priced at my local gun store. Best wishes as you go down the rabbit hole.

Ron

 

[packetloss]

I
And the OP already posted the budget of $200-$400 - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/looking-to-start-reloading.871380/page-2#post-11565973
o keeping OP's budget of $200-$400 in mind, consider that OP is going to need caliber changes. With ABLP/Pro 4000, caliber changes can be done easily and at lowest cost.

And did I mention that ABLP/Pro 4000 is capable of producing finished dimensions on par with Dillon 550/650?

With the rounds the OP mentioned he wants to reload (several pistol + .223 which would I would also assume would be high volume) and budget of up to $400, the ABLP/Pro 4000 is the only realistic option. I had started on a single stage press and it was fine for rifle, but once I started doing pistol I just couldn't take it. I'm sure some folks have the temperament to handle pistol on a single stage, but it was way too tedious and slow for me. Even to a newbie, I just can't recommend a single stage press if they are going to reload pistol rounds.

 

[kmw1954]

I'm sure some folks have the temperament to handle pistol on a single stage, but it was way too tedious and slow for me. Even to a newbie, I just can't recommend a single stage press if they are going to reload pistol rounds.

I whole heartedly agree. The only reason I can imagine someone loading hundreds of rounds of pistol on a single stage press is because they just like fingering their brass, put it in, take it out, repeat, change dies, put in then take out, change dies and repeat again. I did that long ago when I first started loading with a 357mag. Now I've learned there is an easier way.

Then there is the comment that it's a lot to learn, especially for a newbie. Well I hate to bring this up but every time I switch to a new press there is a learning curve. Example, the Pro1000 and Pro4000 are very similar yet every time I switch between the two presses I still have to make an adjustment to the way I work.
Or I'll put it this way. My granddaughter was born deaf 13 years ago. She doesn't know any difference than what she has experienced. She has no clue what it is like to hear as you or I do yet she has learned to communicate quite well. Well a new reloader knows no difference either and they can and will learn if the desire is there. The human brain is very adaptable!

 

[LiveLife]

Well a new reloader knows no difference either and they can and will learn if the desire is there. The human brain is very adaptable!

Good point.

I heard similar rumblings when I started shooting as a teenager regarding "simpler" revolvers being better compared to "complicated" semi-auto pistols ...

 

[Paladin7]

Since you are starting out, I'd highly recommend the ABC's of Reloading and the Speer and Hornady Manuals. Read and re-read them, then read them again. Then you will have the knowledge you need to start.

I'd also highly recommend a Turret Press or the RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Master Reloading Kit. Going with the kit will get you most of what you need to start off. The single stage or turret press is the best way to start.

As to progressive reloaders...DON'T. A single stage or turret press will do one operation at a time, and you need to gain experience with this before moving on to a progressive press that does multiple operations at a time.

Handloading is a great and rewarding hobby. I like it just as much as shooting. But, it is dangerous if you don't have the knowledge or are trying to do too much all at once without experience. You don't want a negligent accident. This goes for you and everyone around you, so please read and do your homework first.

Also, I've found it best to start with straight walled pistol cases like the 38 or 44 special to start with. It is much easier and more forgiving to load these cases than say a 9mm.

 

[LiveLife]

As to progressive reloaders...DON'T. A single stage or turret press will do one operation at a time, and you need to gain experience with this before moving on to a progressive press that does multiple operations at a time.

You do realize that on Lee ABLP/Pro 4000, index rod can be easily removed to use the press as a single stage press?

And on any progressive press, a single case can be run through to use as a turret press?

And same advice of gaining experience before moving on to progressive reloading was already made to the OP?

 

[packetloss]

I'd also add that on a self indexed progressive press you have less of a chance of a double charge or squib compared to a turret. Not impossible, but you have to go out of your way to make it happen (take the case out and move it back). I really don't get why folks feel a progressive is to advanced for a new reloader.

Also, the best starting place is here: https://www.ramshot.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/WPHandloading-Guide-7.0-Web-REV.pdf
It's pretty comprehensive and covers all the basics just like the Speer or Hornady manuals, but this one is free.

 

[Texas10mm]

Since you are starting out, I'd highly recommend the ABC's of Reloading and the Speer and Hornady Manuals. Read and re-read them, then read them again. Then you will have the knowledge you need to start.

I'd also highly recommend a Turret Press or the RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Master Reloading Kit. Going with the kit will get you most of what you need to start off. The single stage or turret press is the best way to start.

As to progressive reloaders...DON'T. A single stage or turret press will do one operation at a time, and you need to gain experience with this before moving on to a progressive press that does multiple operations at a time.

Handloading is a great and rewarding hobby. I like it just as much as shooting. But, it is dangerous if you don't have the knowledge or are trying to do too much all at once without experience. You don't want a negligent accident. This goes for you and everyone around you, so please read and do your homework first.

Also, I've found it best to start with straight walled pistol cases like the 38 or 44 special to start with. It is much easier and more forgiving to load these cases than say a 9mm.

So you would also recommend a new shooter start with a single shot?

 

[Metal God]

All’s I can say is this is a perfect time to start reloading lol . Plenty of components to choose from , you won’t be limited at all on that :-(

 

[mmb617]

I'm a new reloader having just started into it the beginning of this year so I'd like to add a couple thoughts from my perspective even though some guys might say I'm full of ****.

Does anyone else think the $200-$400 budget is unrealistically low?

I absolutely think that budget is unrealistic. I started out loading 9mm and .223 with a basic Lee single stage and kept track of what I spent. Till I had what I needed to start the total was $428.70 and I added a few things I either forgot or didn't know I'd need at the time after that. That's just for equipment, no supplies. I'd think $500 is probably the low end of equipment cost, at least if buying new. I don't know what could be saved by buying used but that has it's own problems as a new reloader might not know exactly what to look for or how to tell if something was actually worth the price.

So I have to buy a $200 scale?

I've been using a $20 digital scale from Amazon that I double check before each loading session against the balance beam scale that came with my Lee kit. It's always been right on.

I would ditch the beam scale, and go for a digital scale, you will end up with one eventually anyway, so might as well get it first.

I started out with the beam scale and found out the hard way that you must check the zero each time you use it, but otherwise it's very accurate. A digital scale is just much easier to use which is why it's my primary and the beam scale is used for spot checks to make sure the digital is correct.

You're talking about loading a couple hundred rounds a month and getting advice to buy a progressive. Sorry, but I think that's extreme overkill. I have two presses, a Lee single stage and the Lee APP which speeds up brass processing. I still don't think I need any more than that. So far this year I've loaded a total of 15,153 rounds, so over 2k rounds a month. About 1/4 of those have been rifle rounds which take a lot longer as there's more steps, especially since I anneal and trim my .223 cases every time I reload them. Even with a single stage a couple hundred pistol rounds don't take long at all, certainly not when spread out over a month's time.

 

[ballman6711]

I don't think that a budget of $200 to $400 is unreasonably low to get started, and I don't think you're full of anything. I started loading two years ago this month.

My startup equipment costs (not counting components):

Hornady LnL Classic single stage kit, $200 (clearance item) plus $20 shipped, no tax.
RCBS dies in 45acp caliber, about $60 after tax (bought at store).
RCBS shellholder in 45acp caliper, lets say $10 after tax (also bought at store).

I already had a set of calipers, but lets add $30 for a cheap set.

So my cost to start was $290 (or $320 if you include buying calipers), and my equipment was all new. I lucked into a clearance deal on the press kit, but the above cost was everything I needed to start loading except for a tumbler and components. So it can be done on a budget if one is patient and shops around. And this was Hornady and RCBS stuff, one can most certainly get Lee or maybe Lyman stuff for less which would do the same job IMO, and should give the same results once the user learns the equipment.

I have since added equipment that I felt I needed or wanted over the last two years, and my equipment cost is still under $1000. Five die sets, four powder measures, a quality beam scale, tumbler, some VERY nice aluminum funnels, etc....

I consider it a hobby, and enjoy it, so I don't mind spending a bit of money here and there. But when I started I wanted to spend as little as possible in case I didn't like it. After buying components, my first loaded round cost about $400~$450. But the next 999 were free, LOL!

To the OP, if you really want to do it, then do it. Shop around until you find what YOU want at a price YOU are willing to pay. New or used, it's out there. Be patient and be ready to grab it when it comes available. And above all, be safe when you start loading!

chris

 

[Erief0g]

I’m thinking about getting into reloading and am in the research stage, so I have lots of questions. I’m trying to decide which press to start with. Is it better to get a kit or buy the parts separate? I’m sure separate would be more expensive. Which kits are good for someone starting out? I would be doing .38 special/.357 mag , 9mm, and .223. Is it better to buy used or new?

I would whole heartedly read the responses from live life and give him a plus one.

 

[Cokeman]

I notice that .38/.357 dies are set up for roll crimp or taper crimp. Why would you choose one over the other?

 

[ballman6711]

A roll crimp is generally used for heavy recoiling revolvers, such as a .357 magnum or larger. It is used to prevent bullet jump and also can help ignition with slower powders such as H110/296 by holding the bullet in the brass longer, allowing more pressure to build and thus a more complete burn of the powder.

A taper crimp is generally used in auto loaders to just remove the flair and allow the bullet to feed properly.

If you are buying dies for a .38/.357 I would recommend getting the roll crimp. You would be able to use a very light crimp for .38 if you wanted to by just backing the die out a bit, but would still be able to get a good roll crimp for your heavier .357 loads.

chris

 

[LiveLife]

Revolver cartridges originally loaded with black powder leaves a lot of empty air space in the case when charged with smokeless powder. Roll crimp into crimp groove is used to improve neck tension for more consistent chamber pressure build and to prevent bullet creep under heavy recoil.

For proper application of roll crimp, check out this thread - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/how-much-crimp-lee-fcd-guidance-sought.469815/

But for semi-auto straight walled cartridges that headspace on case mouth, taper crimp is used. I use the minimal amount of taper crimp (.022" added to the diameter of the bullet), so case mouth will seal with the chamber quicker for less gas leakage and more consistent chamber pressure build.