loosining a buggered hex screw that's glued?

[p5200]

I tried to loosen the sear adjust screw on my Rem. 700 vtr to adjust but, it had so much lock-tite on the threads I just managed to round the flats so I can't loosen it with the standard allen wrench. Of course, it had to be a small size 1/16". Anyone know of any methods of getting this thing loose? easy out maybe? I need to be able to re use the adjustment screw to re adjust the sear though as I'm sure I won't find a replacement screw that small. Any advice is sure welcome. Thanks!

 

[W.E.G.]

This is a current/recent production gun, right?

Why wouldn't you be able to get as many of those screws as you want from Remington?

 

[rattletrap1970]

If the hex is gone, drill through the center of the set screw (if you can and have clearance in the bottom of the hole to do so) and use and "Easy-out" bit. It's a reverse threaded thingy that goes in a standard tap handle. Heat the messes up set screw then apply even torque and back the screw out.

Check these out: http://www.brokentap.com/easy-outs.html

 

[sansone]

I use a small (pocket size) butane torch to pre-heat loctited screws. The heat releases the tenacious hold of the glue. you got to make some type of tiny easy-out to withdraw that now since the flats are rounded. If the surrounding material was aluminum you could have a welder lightly "touch" the steel screw with a skinny welding rod and the rod will unscrew the stripped fastener. The rod won't weld to the aluminum.

 

[rscalzo]

Normally I'd say a small amount of heat but with many nylon parts, I'd be carefully. I would NOT use open flame.

 

[NCsmitty]

Maybe a LITTLE heat from a lighter will soften the lock-tite enough to move the screw.

On other larger screws, a left hand drill bit will bite and remove them quite often.

Here's a link to some LH drill bits.

www.amazon.com/Neiko-13-Piece-Handed-Titanium-Coated/dp/B000HS0UJQ/ref=pd_cp_hi_1



NCsmitty

 

[mbogo]

Another option is to first heat the tip of a finishing nail with your stove's burner (hold it with pliers). When the tip starts turning red, touch it to the glued screw. In a second or three, the thread locker will soften. Now jam a TORX bit into the buggered head and turn counter-clockwise. The screw should turn freely now.

mbogo

 

[jmorris]

If you stop now and take it to someone that knows what they are doing it will be easier to fix, than after you go drilling and breaking off easy outs and such.

The best method I have found for removing fasteners is by using a TIG welder place a dot of weld on top of the fastener and then weld a nut to that. As it cools apply slight pressure to the nut and when it reaches the right temperature it turns out. I have used this technique on set screws down to #5. That one was recessed in a Novak sight that the owner used red locktite on.

 

[p5200]

This screw is also recessed a little bit which doesn't help things none. This gun is new and hasn't proven to be a shooter yet otherwise, I would just replace the trigger with a Timney. I just hate to take the risk just yet of maybe waisting money on another trigger if the guns not a good shooter. Thanks.

 

[PBinWA]

Heat it with a fine tipped soldering iron - then try an easy-out extractor (or the torx bit suggestion may work too).

 

[Lee Roder]

Just my experience as I've never met a screw or bolt which could resist, but as a LAST RESORT, get a SHARP cold chisel, sounds like you need a small one so may have to grind your own, and impact the force of a hammer along the bolt/screw head's periphery where the force produces MAXIMUM TORQUE. You'll totally mess up the head where the chicel bites in (you were going to replace it anyway right?) but the screw will turn. Been there done that many times

HTH

 

[pro2]

I have had good luck tapping a torx driver into stripped allen bolts... the sharp edges will cut and bite into the metal. Tap in with a brass hammer to avoid damage to your rifle.

As stated above, heat the area after torx bit is tapped into place, then attempt to remove.