Lubbing case necks -inside

[langenc]

This post is in response to several questions about lubbing cases necks reducing/preventing case neck 'stretch" and tough bolt closings.

I obtained a small oint jar and put the shot from a couple shotshells (7.5/8's) into it along with a spoonful or so of graphite. Shake it up.

Cases necks can then be dipped (vertically) into the shot/graphite mix about 1/4 to 3/8" (more or less). That puts graphite inside and out on the case neck.

Run a few into the sizing die(FL/neck) and you will be able to feel a reduction in the force needed to pull the expander out of the case. That 'slipperiness' reduces pulling the case neck out and is much easier to chamber.

The above is in addition to other lube you use for FL sizing to keep the case from sticking/breaking off in the FL die. Hands get a little black from the graphite.

 

[Roccobro]

thank you Sir! This should really be put in the "invent or discover" tips & tricks sticky thread my friend.

Justin

 

[snuffy]

The above is in addition to other lube you use for FL sizing to keep the case from sticking/breaking off in the FL die. Hands get a little black from the graphite.

That's not all that gets black. The outside of the case neck also gets black. It gets ironed into the brass so well, it won't even come off while tumbling. If you don't mind black necked brass, then it's a fine answer to a supposed problem.

When I was using a lube pad to lube cases, I had a nylon neck brush that I rolled lightly on the pad. That was then used to go in and out of the neck,(inside). It deposited a very thin film of lube to ease the expander out of the neck.

Now I use RCBS case slick pump spray to lube cases tossed into a dedicated bowl. Sprayed then tossed around coats the inside of enough cases to ease the neck expander through the cases. The case slick is primer/powder safe so It's left in there.

 

[kennedy]

I just use lee lube on a q-tip to lube the inside of the neck, simple and works great.

 

[stubbicatt]

You guys make this too hard. It is so simple if you do it right.

Get you Lee Case Lube. Dissolve a tube of the stuff in a 50/50 mix of iso alcohol and water. Place in a spray bottle one cup "atomizer." Get a ziplock freezer bag from the pantry.

Squirt 5 long shots in the bag. Add 2 -300 empties. Squirt a couple more shots in. Zip shut. Roll cases around assuring good coverage. Empty on towel to dry. 20 minutes later you are ready to load. The lube gets inside the case necks, and then the carrier evaporates leaving a thin, waxlike, lubricating substance all over the case. Will NOT stick a case, and since some of the stuff gets inside the case neck, it eases the expander ball out of the case with no squeak or anything.

Best of all it wipes off easily with a damp rag, or 15 minutes in the tumbler. If you don't want to do that... It'll do just fine to leave the residue on your brass. Won't look as pretty as some if you leave it on there, but it doesn't affect function.

You can lube thousands of cases beforehand, and store them lubricated. Stuff won't attract lint, powder, or anything. (Try loading a stick powder in a case which has even the slightest amount of lanolin type lube inside the neck and see how far that gets you.)

But then most guys would rather spend a bunch of time, and money, to make an unpleasant task even more unpleasant... use q-tips, use sizing wax, using that horrific lanolin based lube... leaving their cases all sticky so they have to be tumbled again... etc. And still occasionally stick a case in the die or scratch things up because their lube attracts dirt.

Whatever you do... don't try to make this easier on yourself. After all, lubing, sizing, and trimming are the best parts of reloading!

NOT!

 

[mek42]

Regarding the graphite - I am not a metallurgist or a machinist, but I am a chemist - if there is enough leftover graphite to blacken the case, I personally would be concerned about the possibility of the graphite acting as some sort of powder treatment to the chamber, perhaps weakening the chamber over time.

I have no idea if this is something to really be worried about, but I personally would not take the risk.

 

[243winxb]

I just use lee lube on a q-tip to lube the inside of the neck, simple and works great.

The Lee lub/wax can build up causing a problem. Check the inside of the necks after sizing. Now using RCBS nylon brush and lube with no problems.

 

[brickeyee]

Use mica if the graphite is a problem.

 

[Grizzly Adams]

I use basically the same approach, only I use a Skoal can and graphite. Just dip the case mouth into the graphite and tap off/out any excess and you are ready to go. I like the shot idea. I'll give it a try!

Regarding the graphite - I am not a metallurgist or a machinist, but I am a chemist - if there is enough leftover graphite to blacken the case, I personally would be concerned about the possibility of the graphite acting as some sort of powder treatment to the chamber, perhaps weakening the chamber over time.

The reloader that told me about graphite had been using this method for years without any problems and I've been using it for over 35. So I have no problem recommending it.

 

[ants]

mek42 - modern gunpowder looks black because they coat it with graphite to keep it from caking, to help it flow in powder measures, and to keep static charge down. It has been used as a lubricant for equipment, cases, and/or bullets for many decades. Take a look at publications from the major manufacturers. They often include graphite in the discussions of methods and practices.

 

[kelbro]

How does the graphite inside the neck affect the neck tension and pressure buildup?

Probably wouldn't matter if you worked up the loads correctly watching closely for pressure signs.

Seems like it might also help with velocity spreads since the release might be more consistent.

I use mica.