Lubricant for carbide dies?

I’ve tried just about every lube on the market, Imperial wax as well as the lanolin mix, and what I use now is 1 ½ oz of Hornady LIQUID one shot (not the wasteful aerosol) $5 at Midway, mixed with 12 oz of red Iso-Heet $2 at Walmart. The liquid does not affect primers or powder, no post-lube cleaning required. Just a couple sprays in a ziplock bag, shake, let the alcohol evaporate for 15 minutes, and reload. Leaves a nice slick (NOT sticky) coating on the brass that stays for weeks stored in another ziplock. How I came about this is another story, but everyone who has tried this agrees it works great.
 
Yes, that's been my experience as well. It's OK on thin small cases like 223, but tends to choke or dent shoulders in 30-06. Hard to find It's happy place there.

One Shot doesn't work well with bottle necked rifle. Especially if they are being run through a small base die.
Yup. I was talking to a Forster tech one time and he told me most of the stuck rifle cases he gets folks were using one shot. Works well on pistol cases.
 
I was a little slow to come around to using lube with carbide dies. I guess my RochChucker has so much leverage that I didn't need any lube. But it helps a lot with cases like 38 Super and 10mm. And any magnum case.
I'm another that stuck bottleneck cases with OneShot and quit using it but it works great with carbide dies.
 
1 ½ oz of Hornady LIQUID one shot (not the wasteful aerosol) $5 at Midway
Link please, I'd much prefer non-aerosol.

I looked at MidwayUSA.com, there are only four Hornady case lubricants currently listed; One Shot Case Lube Aerosol, Unique Case Lube, One Shot Case Sizing Wax, and Hornady Case Sizing Lube.

The only one that's five dollars is the Unique, which isn't supposed to be liquid, they say it's a paste. I've never used it.

The One Shot Pump and refills have been discontinued and were more than $5

FWIW, the MSDS for the Hornady Case Sizing Lube, product #05009, says it's 100% castor oil. At $7.32 (MidwayUSA price) for 2 ounces or $3.66 per oz, I'd get it elsewhere. I did a quick look on Amazon and found 16 ounces for $7.34 or 46 cents per ounce.
 
Link please, I'd much prefer non-aerosol.

I looked at MidwayUSA.com, there are only four Hornady case lubricants currently listed; One Shot Case Lube Aerosol, Unique Case Lube, One Shot Case Sizing Wax, and Hornady Case Sizing Lube.

The only one that's five dollars is the Unique, which isn't supposed to be liquid, they say it's a paste. I've never used it.

The One Shot Pump and refills have been discontinued and were more than $5

FWIW, the MSDS for the Hornady Case Sizing Lube, product #05009, says it's 100% castor oil. At $7.32 (MidwayUSA price) for 2 ounces or $3.66 per oz, I'd get it elsewhere. I did a quick look on Amazon and found 16 ounces for $7.34 or 46 cents per ounce.
Castor oil you say.....some experimentation may be in order.
 
I don't normally lube, but sometimes I will. If the brass is new or squeaky clean, I will either tumble it to get some carbon and polish on the brass, or lubricate it.

I will lubricate every 6-8 cases lightly with Imperial, or I'll give the whole tub a shot of Hornady One Shot. I will tumble to remove the lube if I use One Shot, I may or may not tumble if I use a dab of Imperial.

Here is a thread with a poll on castboolits I started about lubricating brass when using carbide dies. Very interesting discussion.
 
Castor oil you say.....some experimentation may be in order.
That's what Hornady says:
It's in section 3.

According to the MSDS for Unique paste, it's mostly animal fat:
1. Tallow Concentration 70 - 90 % (weight)
2. Mustela Cera (EU),Mustela Oil (EU),Mustele Oil Concentration 5 - 15 % (weight)
3. Glycerol Monooleate Concentration 5 - 15 % (weight)
4. Paraffin waxes (petroleum), hydrotreated Concentration 0-5 % (weight)

Tallow is beef fat, basically lard from cows, though the two are different.
Mustela oil is mink oil, though some companies are selling avocado oil as a replacement.
Glyceral monooleate is a single fatty acid, oleic, combined with glycerol, a mono instead of a triglyceride. Most fats and oils are the tri kind, but this would still be greasy.
Paraffin is the wax used to seal jelly, among other uses.
They're allowed to put the ranges in the (M)SDS to keep the precise formulation a trade secret, FWIW.

Experimentation is fun. Mrs. Mc got on the coconut oil kick (I think from Dr. Oz's show), so I tried that mixed as one would for lanolin, it worked. Your fingers can tell if something is slick; don't push a case into a die if it doesn't feel a little slick. :) I do like the recent experiment someone here did with measured resistance, that was neat stuff.
 
Liquid lanolin and a bottle of red ISO Heet from the automotive departmeant is about the best, cheapest, and easiest way to go. Get an empty spray bottle, pour in one ounce of lanolin, then the 12 ounce bottle of iso heet and mix well. In a ziplock, bowl, box, or whatever container you want put your brass and spritz with your spray. Shake the brass around then allow 5 minutes for the alcohol to evaporate and you have perfectly lubed cases. You can tumble in walnut or corncob after to remove the lube if you feel the need.
This is exactly what I use for lube formula too. Been working great for probably 8 years. No stuck cases which I have had with other methods.
I reload on a progressive press but do it in two passes. First pass: remove primmer, resize and bell mouth of case. Second Pass finish reloading.
I do wash brass after first pass with a mixture of Woolite, dawn and Lemishine.
This method has been the culmination of many years and works the best for me.
 
Drinking it can be a very moving experience. 😳
You reminded me of a read about WWI from years ago. When our boys were using aircraft powered by the LaRhone engine which used petrol mixed with castor oil it was said that who the pilots drank so much was to curb the effects of breathing the engine exhaust mixture. As a person who used to fly personal aircraft way back when, can't imagine a more frustrating situation than dealing with weak bowels when flying.
 
About any lubricant designed for case lubing will work with carbide dies.

I’ve been lubing straight walled pistol cases sized in carbide dies for the past four or five years. It makes sizing large cases like 45 Colt or 44 Magnum a lot easier.

I use mostly lanolin/alcohol mix or one of the commercial spray on lubricant.

I do clean the cases after sizing. Mostly dry tumbling but sometimes wet tumbling.
 
Castor oil works well even for rifle cases. Started using its number of years ago. But I don't bother to lube carbide dies. What's the point of buying them if you're still going to use lube? I've done thousands of rounds of pistol brass of all kinds and don't have issues.
 
Yup. I was talking to a Forster tech one time and he told me most of the stuck rifle cases he gets folks were using one shot. Works well on pistol cases.

One Shot doesn't work well with bottle necked rifle. Especially if they are being run through a small base die.

I have loaded thousands of rounds of 7-08, .308, .270 and 30.06 for my rifles using One Shot and never had a stuck case or any other issues. It's all in the application. A long time ago I used to sit and lube each case and inside the neck with Lee lube. It worked but time consuming and had to be applied evenly and then wiped off. Work smarter not harder...
 
I have loaded thousands of rounds of 7-08, .308, .270 and 30.06 for my rifles using One Shot and never had a stuck case or any other issues. It's all in the application. A long time ago I used to sit and lube each case and inside the neck with Lee lube. It worked but time consuming and had to be applied evenly and then wiped off. Work smarter not harder...
Glad it works for you. Choice is a good thing. I use it for my pistol brass. I prefer Imperial Sizing Wax for rifle brass (which is more time consuming), which according to the Forster tech is smarter :D:D
 
What's the point of buying them if you're still going to use lube?
To reduce the effort of resizing, especially very large calibers and/or cases from firearms with slightly oversized chambers. Carpel tunnel and rotator cuff strain are things to be avoided if possible. A little wax lube in the dry tumbler - or any other method one prefers, as mentioned above - is well worth the effort if it avoids weekly PT.
 
Glad it works for you. Choice is a good thing. I use it for my pistol brass. I prefer Imperial Sizing Wax for rifle brass (which is more time consuming), which according to the Forster tech is smarter :D:D
Difference of opinions is a good thing I suppose and to each his own. In regards to the Forester Techs comments that's just another personal opinion. Carry On...
 
Difference of opinions is a good thing I suppose and to each his own. In regards to the Forester Techs comments that's just another personal opinion. Carry On...
Yes it is his personal opinion, but also a professional opinion( hands on with many stuck cases) as that is what he does for a living, which for me adds credence to his opinion.
 
My problem is hard pull off the Dillon expander ("powder funnel") when using new, once fired, or heavily cleaned brass, OR when using an undersize sizing die to hold short slick bullets. Lubing the inside "necks" of bulk pistol cases is tedious. My next batch I will try getting most of them mouth up in the pan to spray lube. One Shot is not supposed to hurt the powder or primer, maybe it won't reduce bullet pull.
 
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