M16A1 Replica Build

Status
Not open for further replies.
….a short rubber baby bumper stock would be nice, too, if you are going for the VN era look. and of course as an accessory for the era you need a nylon cleaning kit pouch over filled with stuff. and the comic book to display with it all and an M7 bayonet and M8A1 sheath

-kBob
 
About the only way to get the lower to match the upper perfectly would to spray both with something like Aluma-Hyde or Cerakote. You can stick with the A2 grip but an A1 grip wold be correct for a true clone.

Everyone that has an A1 or A2 needs a bayonet. The M7 bayonet with M8A1 scabbard would be correct for both. I didn't even see or get issued a M9 bayonet until 1993 or 1994. I never saw the cleaning kit pouch that fits inside the butt stock much outside of boot camp. A fun fact, Ft Leonardwood was still using the A1 for training until at least 1990.
 
Some of the M16A1's in my Arms Room were worn almost to the white. A little B/C Aluminum Black applied with the Brownell's 'cotton ball on a stick' applicators should give it a very authentic look. I agree with Gunny, find an A1 pistol grip.
Looking good otherwise so far; makes want to say "You can tell it's from Mattel."
 
I have a couple of old colt AR‘s with clean kits in the stock but will be leaving them out. They just add weight and rattle around. I intend to shoot it a bunch. I’ll correct the grip to an A1. It was on the 80% lower that I had laying around.
 
Some of the M16A1's in my Arms Room were worn almost to the white. A little B/C Aluminum Black applied with the Brownell's 'cotton ball on a stick' applicators should
give it a very authentic look. I agree with Gunny, find an A1 pistol grip.
Looking good otherwise so far; makes want to say "You can tell it's from Mattel."

Thanks for the finishing tip. I want the rifle to look like it’s been used and knocked around. I hope the barrel I have ordered works out. It is a 1/9 twist instead of 1/12 which was fine by me.
 
Comments (some of which have been mentioned by others):

1. Your lower receiver is the later type with the reinforcements. (Note particularly the curvature below the front pivot pin.) Retro lowers are available from NoDak Spud.

2. The proper finish for the lower is a dark gray anodizing. Any kind of paint finish won't cut it.

3. Both your stock and your pistol grip are A2. You need the A1 versions.

4. Most barrel assemblies available today have "F" marked front sight towers. These are designed for flat-topped upper receivers (with removable carry handles or BUIS) and are too high for the A1 upper and rear sight. This is worth noting when ordering your barrel.
 
Make sure you use an A1 stock screw and not one of the A2 screws, or youll go nuts with random cycling failures.

The A2 screws are longer and will cause problems in the A1 stocks.

Been there, done that, and was getting really annoyed trying to figure it out.
 
You will want to stock up on 20 round magazines, too.
Good idea, but not absolutely necessary for authenticity. I have an actual Colt M16A1 that I bought directly from the factory, back in the day, and it came originally with (2) 30-round magazines. However, those were the type with dark green followers with white numbers on them, which are very difficult to find today. (30-round followers evolved from dark green, to black, then to light green, and then to tan. That's on GI aluminum magazines.)
Make sure you use an A1 stock screw and not one of the A2 screws, or you'll go nuts with random cycling failures.

The A2 screws are longer and will cause problems in the A1 stocks.
Yes, the A2 screws are longer so as to bridge the 5/8" spacer that's required for the longer A2 stock (since the same buffer tube is used for both the A1 and A2 stocks). If you use an A2 screw with an A1 stock, it will protrude into the buffer tube and cause a short stroking of the buffer.

Conversely, the A2 lower buttplate screws are shorter than the ones for the A1, because the butt swivel is closer to the buttplate on an A2.
 
Make sure you use an A1 stock screw and not one of the A2 screws, or youll go nuts with random cycling failures.

The A2 screws are longer and will cause problems in the A1 stocks.

Been there, done that, and was getting really annoyed trying to figure it out.

Haha. Thanks for the tip. I actually am temporarily using a hand grip screw, same threads, until I get the correct screw.
 
You can age it the same way the way I accidentally aged my DPMS a1 carbine.

Forget it is on the rear bumper when you are out in the desert. Decide you want to move to the good spot since its open now. Load up drive off and let the rifle fall and get the sling caught on the trailer hitch.
Now drag said rifle a mile or so and be ready to replace furniture, sling, front sight post, and stock.

Now comes the important part. DO NOT tell your parents (especially father) about your misadventure. He'll never let you live it down.


I love that carbine. Hasn't let me down yet, except with a 77gr loading i tried. Patterns roughly describe the effect on paper.
 
...I want the rifle to look like it’s been used and knocked around...
If you want your rifle to look like it's been used and knocked around, use it and knock it around. Artificially "distressed" finishes look phony.

...I hope the barrel I have ordered works out. It is a 1/9 twist instead of 1/12 which was fine by me.
A 1/9 twist is a better choice than 1/12
 
I finished up my A1 parts kit-look-alike build today. I have a couple of test rounds through it and it shoots fine. Hope to get it to the range in a couple of days.
 
I have a couple of colt A2, Ar lowers that would be more authentic but they are like new and I kind of wanted this to just be a knock around rifle. I will probably experiment with some different finishes on some bare aluminum sheets I have to come up with a way to make the lower look worn and aged.
 
I will probably experiment with some different finishes on some bare aluminum sheets I have to come up with a way to make the lower look worn and aged.
Since the lower is "in the white," then, prior to applying a finish, you have an opportunity to re-profile it in certain areas to look more like an A1 than an A2. Look at some pictures comparing the two versions. Fortunately for you, the A2 added material in certain areas (compared to the A1), and so it shouldn't be too difficult to remove the excess material, by careful filing and Dremeling.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top