Very cool. If you put the loop of your sling under the forearm, and adjust it just so, you can use it to assist you in field positions.
Zeroing these rifles can be a real pain. One that has been properly zeroed (usually) will have the center post of the reticle centered up in the scope, left-to-right, and the tip of the reticle in the upper center of the scope picture. If you could run five horizontal lines across the scope picture, with the center line across the equator, or exact middle of the scope picture, the tip of the center post would be between the first and second lines from the top. This allows you to make full use of the ranging feature of the reticle, to the greatest extent theoretically feasible.
The scope base which is permanently affixed to the receiver will (usually) have the lower screw staked in place, and the two horizontal tabs on the scope mount ground down just enough to center the scope for windage, where they contact the scope base. If you have found a shim in there, between the scope mount and the scope base, it is a pretty good indication of a post-war remake.
Typically, if they are off by very much, this is an indication that the scope and mount you have is not one which came on the rifle. When these things left the armories for the front they were already zeroed, and the scope numbers (usually) stamped into the barrel shank, and the scope mount etched with the barrel number of the rifle it went on.
Hope you enjoy your rifle as much as I have mine.