Major Mauser rebuild could use some advise

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jeeptim

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Thanx for stopping by.
Well here's the deal. My buddy got a big ol tupper ware container from an old friend of ours. My buddy kept what he wanted and offered me a dig and what i came up with is a Mauser action re barreled for 30-06 I cast the chamber slugged the barell slug came out to .306 shinny bore. the bolt is in really good shape not sure if this was used when re barreled, floor plate/trigger housing and mag well all good, stock is not of this action and wont properly fit. top front of barell has some pitting (on the outside as dose the trigger housing, and rear sights never installed on barrel.
#1.. The metal
I have ordered a dura coat kit (have an air brush) the pitting in the steel is not real bad but sanding will not be reasonable so thinking of filling. Is auto body filler or JB weld the thing to use or do you know of a better product?
With the dura coat I got the color, hardener, and grease remover. Have never used this product any pointers?
#2....The Stock
The stock I have is beat but.... Untill I find out if this is going to be a shooter if i don't use the top hand guard and cut the lower front off just behind the swivel band float the barell i think thats my best option.
#3.... Sights/Scope
The left side of the action has 3 drilled and threaded holes was done nicely but no mount would like to find the mount that fits those holes any ideas??
On the action on the right side is a most of a Lyman peep sight should have been mounted on the other side. I think the scope would have got in the way. I ordered the parts needed for the peep sight but would really like a scope.
Just a more I would love to have an original matching Mauser and would never hack one up. But what i have is a bunch of old parts that look like could end up being a fine shooting rifle.
If you have any good input on filling the pitting,shooting and preping for dura coat, cutting down the stock, Finding a scope mount that matches the holes i have would be much appreciated.
My neighbors 8 year old may be coming over to show me how to post pix.
 
Fill the side mount holes with plug screws.

Then have a gunsmith with the proper jig or mill drill & tap the receiver rings for a modern scope base.

You will also need to forge the bolt handle, or cut the old one off and weld on a new bolt handle for scope clearance, and add a low-scope safety.
Or complete new trigger assembly with a side safety.

Duracoat makes a pit filler that is compatible with Duracoat.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/618204/lauer-durafil-surface-filler-black-4-oz

rc
 
I do lots of Duracoat work and would recommend obtaining some reducer and retarder from Midway or direct from Lauer. I use the same amount of reducer as hardener and add the same amount of retarder if the temperature is over 90. The reducer is also used as the final clean-up of your air brush. I use lacquer thinner for the initial cleaning.
Some general recommendations:
Don't skimp on degreasing. More Duracoat jobs go south because of poor degreasing than any other reason.
A fine grit blast leaves a good surface for the paint to adhere to.
Buy a cheap set of metal measuring spoons at WalMart or the dollar store and use them. Don't guess at proportions. I mix one tablespoon paint to 1/4 teaspoon of hardener for the 12:1 ratio. When properly mixed and reduced, Duracoat is very easy to spray and is fairly forgiving. Just don't lay it on heavy enough to get a run. Several light coats are better.
The Durafil previously mentioned is the best filler to use to fill pits. Guaranteed combatility with the paint.
I have called Lauer with questions and have found them to be very helpful. Nice guys.
 
The three holes were probably for a side mount and that was most likely used to avoid bending the bolt handle. I suggest going ahead and bending the bolt, filling up the holes with plug screws or TIG welding, and then drilling and tapping for a top scope mount. (Bending the bolt or cutting it off and welding on a new one, and drilling and tapping the receiver are NOT DIY jobs, so have a gunsmith do that work.)

Jim
 
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