granny geek
Member
How do I find the manufacture date for a s&w 38spcl serial #6xxx? Have tried S&W website and Google, which led me here. Would appreciate it if anyone can help. Thanks.
Manufacture date for a s&w 38spcl serial #6xxx?
- Thread starter granny geek
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jacobtowne
Member
The answer would be in Jim Supica's Standard Catalogue of Smith & Wesson.
If you post more information, someone could look it up for you - patents dates, all stamps and numbers, finish, grips, number of chambers, etc.
JT
If you post more information, someone could look it up for you - patents dates, all stamps and numbers, finish, grips, number of chambers, etc.
JT
FPrice
Member
Are there any letters in front of this serial number? And is it just the four numbers? This will be a start in trying to help you identify excatly what you have.
granny geek
Member
s&w 38spcl serial #6xxx
Thanks for your responses. Next time we go to town I'll check the library for the Supica book. In the meantime I'll try to describe it (with the help of anoter great web site, http://www.gunsworld.com/exploded/sw36.htm, which shows a picture and the part names):
The serial number is only four numbers - no letters - beginning with a 6 and is repeated much smaller on the back of the cylinder where the bullets go in.
The cylinder holds five bullets and the barrel is barely 2 inches long. There's no rear sight, only a groove that runs the length of the frame and barrel to the front sight. The stock is wood hatched with a diamond pattern and the screws set in a larger diamond. At the top of the stock on each side is a silver circle with a fancy S&W intertwined.
On the right side of the frame are the words MADE IN USA - under that is MARCAS REGISTRADAS - under that SMITH & WESSON - and under that SPRINGFIELD, MASS.
On the right side of the barrel: 38 S.&W. SPL.
On the left side of the frame below the thumbpiece: a fancy intertwined S&W in a circle with the words TRADE in curved lettering above it and MARK in curved lettering below it and REG.U.S. PAT. OFF. in curved lettering below that.
On the left inside part of the yoke are the numbers 41091 and above them a mark that could be a written N or possibly a K.
On the left side of the barrel the words SMITH & WESSON.
I really hope this post isn't too long. The defensive shooting instructor thinks this may be a pretty old gun but he wasn't sure how old.
Thanks again for providing help to the newbies out here. Well, anyway, new to handguns.
granny
Thanks for your responses. Next time we go to town I'll check the library for the Supica book. In the meantime I'll try to describe it (with the help of anoter great web site, http://www.gunsworld.com/exploded/sw36.htm, which shows a picture and the part names):
The serial number is only four numbers - no letters - beginning with a 6 and is repeated much smaller on the back of the cylinder where the bullets go in.
The cylinder holds five bullets and the barrel is barely 2 inches long. There's no rear sight, only a groove that runs the length of the frame and barrel to the front sight. The stock is wood hatched with a diamond pattern and the screws set in a larger diamond. At the top of the stock on each side is a silver circle with a fancy S&W intertwined.
On the right side of the frame are the words MADE IN USA - under that is MARCAS REGISTRADAS - under that SMITH & WESSON - and under that SPRINGFIELD, MASS.
On the right side of the barrel: 38 S.&W. SPL.
On the left side of the frame below the thumbpiece: a fancy intertwined S&W in a circle with the words TRADE in curved lettering above it and MARK in curved lettering below it and REG.U.S. PAT. OFF. in curved lettering below that.
On the left inside part of the yoke are the numbers 41091 and above them a mark that could be a written N or possibly a K.
On the left side of the barrel the words SMITH & WESSON.
I really hope this post isn't too long. The defensive shooting instructor thinks this may be a pretty old gun but he wasn't sure how old.
Thanks again for providing help to the newbies out here. Well, anyway, new to handguns.
granny
FPrice
Member
granny...
This sounds suspiciously like a very early J-frame .38 SPL, a pre-Model 36 Chief's Special. If it is, it dates to about 1951 or so. Does it have an exposed hammer? How about the front sight, is it ramped or a half-moon shape?
Is it for sale?
This sounds suspiciously like a very early J-frame .38 SPL, a pre-Model 36 Chief's Special. If it is, it dates to about 1951 or so. Does it have an exposed hammer? How about the front sight, is it ramped or a half-moon shape?
Is it for sale?
granny geek
Member
s&w 38spcl
Front sight is ramped and appears to be all of one piece with barrel - trigger is exposed. I'm amazed at how many parts there are to a gun and how much it takes to describe one.
Sorry, it isn't for sale - I'm using it to learn defensive shooting, and as the instructor says, "you can never have too many guns."
granny
Front sight is ramped and appears to be all of one piece with barrel - trigger is exposed. I'm amazed at how many parts there are to a gun and how much it takes to describe one.
Sorry, it isn't for sale - I'm using it to learn defensive shooting, and as the instructor says, "you can never have too many guns."
granny
FPrice
Member
That's okay, I was wondering if you were going to buy it. It sounds like a nice olver revolver. Do you have anyway of taking a digital picture of it?
beaucoup ammo
Member
Was On Google
...looking for a site and this thread came up! I'm trying to locate a site that can give you the manufacture date of your weapon if you can provide serial #, etc.
Anyone know of any?
Thanks In Advance!
Take Care
...looking for a site and this thread came up! I'm trying to locate a site that can give you the manufacture date of your weapon if you can provide serial #, etc.
Anyone know of any?
Thanks In Advance!
Take Care
What firearms in particular??
Some information is available at www.proofhouse.com
That, and folks on this forum are a gold mine of information, but because different models (even from the same manufacturer) can have the same serial number, and because manufacturers locate the serial number in different places, a detailed description is often necessary. Pictures can be even better.
Some information is available at www.proofhouse.com
That, and folks on this forum are a gold mine of information, but because different models (even from the same manufacturer) can have the same serial number, and because manufacturers locate the serial number in different places, a detailed description is often necessary. Pictures can be even better.
whiteriver4090
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- May 10, 2007
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A fourth model S&W topbreak in 38S&W
Can anyone out there tell me the production date of this gun? the numbers are 38722x
Can anyone out there tell me the production date of this gun? the numbers are 38722x
Whiteriver 4090:
Because of the way Smith & Wesson serial numbered these guns you can't match a serial number to a certain year. The best you can get is a range of years. If you really want to know, Roy Jinks, the company's in-house historian will research the old records and find your particular gun. S&W (not Roy) charge a reasonable $30.00 fee for the service.
Your description is a bit sparse. Smith & Wesson made a number of different model .38 revolvers - some 5 shot, and some 6. Some were top-break, while others were hand ejectors (cylinder swings out to the left). Some were .38 S&W where others were .38 S&W Special. Some were round butt with black molded stocks, where others had square butts and checkered walnut stocks.
Come back with more information and we'll see what can be found out.
Because of the way Smith & Wesson serial numbered these guns you can't match a serial number to a certain year. The best you can get is a range of years. If you really want to know, Roy Jinks, the company's in-house historian will research the old records and find your particular gun. S&W (not Roy) charge a reasonable $30.00 fee for the service.
Your description is a bit sparse. Smith & Wesson made a number of different model .38 revolvers - some 5 shot, and some 6. Some were top-break, while others were hand ejectors (cylinder swings out to the left). Some were .38 S&W where others were .38 S&W Special. Some were round butt with black molded stocks, where others had square butts and checkered walnut stocks.
Come back with more information and we'll see what can be found out.
So now I find out...
Serial number 38722x falls into the 4th model series, that were made from 1895 to 1909. Serial number range was from 322,701 to 539,000. I suspect your revolver was made around 1900. As I mentioned in the above post, you'll need to go the S&W to nail it closer then that.
beaucoup ammo
Member
Granny
The .38 Model 2 is a 5 shot medium "pocket" revolver. You said your's is a 5 shot. I hope that is of some help. Might be your 2 incher. The serial numbers for top break revolvers are located (among other places) on the rear face of the cylinder...as you mentioned.
Like Old Fluff suggested, the $30 would assure you of your wheel gun's lineage.
The .38 Model 2 is a 5 shot medium "pocket" revolver. You said your's is a 5 shot. I hope that is of some help. Might be your 2 incher. The serial numbers for top break revolvers are located (among other places) on the rear face of the cylinder...as you mentioned.
Like Old Fluff suggested, the $30 would assure you of your wheel gun's lineage.
handgunfanatic
Member
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- Jan 30, 2008
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S & W .38 special
I am looking for the year ranges for a S & W .38 Special with pearl grips that has a serial number of J548474. Handgun is a snub nose!
I am looking for the year ranges for a S & W .38 Special with pearl grips that has a serial number of J548474. Handgun is a snub nose!
Dear Fanatic...
Smith & wesson used the "J" prefix serial numbers on several models, which included the models 36, 37,38, 49, and 50 so I have no idea what your particular revolvers is. The J prefix numbers running from J-1 to J-999,999 were made in 1969 and '70.
If you swing out the cylinder, the model number should be stamped on the side of the frame under the barrel. With the cylinder swung out you can see it.
Smith & wesson used the "J" prefix serial numbers on several models, which included the models 36, 37,38, 49, and 50 so I have no idea what your particular revolvers is. The J prefix numbers running from J-1 to J-999,999 were made in 1969 and '70.
If you swing out the cylinder, the model number should be stamped on the side of the frame under the barrel. With the cylinder swung out you can see it.
Just for info:
For the .38 Special, top breaks can be eliminated. S&W chambered that round only in hand ejectors (yes, I know about the Model 52 - please don't confuse things any more than they are!).
A five shot .38 Special has to be a J frame; a six shot can't be.
Jim
For the .38 Special, top breaks can be eliminated. S&W chambered that round only in hand ejectors (yes, I know about the Model 52 - please don't confuse things any more than they are!).
A five shot .38 Special has to be a J frame; a six shot can't be.
Jim
handgunfanatic
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S & W Model 13
I am getting ready to purchase a S & W Model 13-3? Does anyone know what years these revolvers were made? I do not have a serial number and I am wanting an educated guess on the years they were made? Also, Are these pistols good and what is a good price?
I am getting ready to purchase a S & W Model 13-3? Does anyone know what years these revolvers were made? I do not have a serial number and I am wanting an educated guess on the years they were made? Also, Are these pistols good and what is a good price?
The model 13 was a heavy barrel/fixed sights/K-frame/357 Magnum revolver. It was a little light for a stedy diet of high-end .357 loads, but otherwise a good revolver with a large following within law enforcement circles. It represented a good compromise between weight and power.
The dash-3 change, incorporated in 1982, eliminated the pinned barrel and counter-bored chambers features.
The dash-4 modifications involved a new yoke retention system that replaced the front sideplate screw and came along in 1998.
The model was discontinued in 1999.
When buying a used one, look for burred screwheads, cylinder endshake (back & forth movement) and play between the frame and yoke when the cylinder is closed and latched.
Prices have been going up, one in excellent condition can draw $350 to $400.
One in average shape are moving in the $275 to $325 range.
The dash-3 change, incorporated in 1982, eliminated the pinned barrel and counter-bored chambers features.
The dash-4 modifications involved a new yoke retention system that replaced the front sideplate screw and came along in 1998.
The model was discontinued in 1999.
When buying a used one, look for burred screwheads, cylinder endshake (back & forth movement) and play between the frame and yoke when the cylinder is closed and latched.
Prices have been going up, one in excellent condition can draw $350 to $400.
One in average shape are moving in the $275 to $325 range.
Last edited:
toyotamike
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- Feb 4, 2008
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- 3
I have an old 38 police special the serial # off the bottom of the grip starts with 252xxx, no letters and has the serial # on the chamber and nothing else. It's a 6 shot revolver with a left hand drop out chamber. It has an old walnut checkered S&W intialed grip. looks like a 5-6" barrel. Thank you for any info
It sounds like a Pre-Model 10 Military and Police, made between 1915-and1942. A call to S&W might give you a better date. But as is my usual state, I'm a little confused by the term ,38 Police Special. thats a Colt Model. Does it read S&W on the barrel
toyotamike:
Ah so....
Honorable Fuff believes that you have a S&W .38 1905 Hand Ejector (Military & Police model) 4th change.
These were made between 1915 and about 1942, in a serial number range going from 241,704 to 1,000,000. Number 252,xxx was made during or around 1916.
Serial number should be stamped on butt, rear face of cylinder, and bottom of barrel above the ejector rod. Do not use Plus-P ammunition, as the cylinder is not heat treated.
Ah so....
Honorable Fuff believes that you have a S&W .38 1905 Hand Ejector (Military & Police model) 4th change.
These were made between 1915 and about 1942, in a serial number range going from 241,704 to 1,000,000. Number 252,xxx was made during or around 1916.
Serial number should be stamped on butt, rear face of cylinder, and bottom of barrel above the ejector rod. Do not use Plus-P ammunition, as the cylinder is not heat treated.
RIATAC45
Member
J Frame?
Does yours look like this?
This is my pre36 chiefs special, it happens to be a 1952
Does yours look like this?
This is my pre36 chiefs special, it happens to be a 1952
toyotamike
Member
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- Feb 4, 2008
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It has a much longer barrel then that. I say police special because of the hammer shape. Yes the Serial number is on the butt, the rear face of the cylinder but not on the barrel. Only says Smith & Wesson and 38 S&W Special CTG on the sides of the barrel. It must be 1916 cause it ends in 046. But thanks for all the info so far!
Standard barrel lengths at this time were 4, 5 and 6 inches. If the barrel is longer then 6 inches and not serial numbered on the bottom I'd suspect that it was a non-factory replacement, or the revolver isn't a Smith & Wesson. This is why a picture helps.
On the top of the barrel there should be a series of patent dates. If so, what is the last one?
Because S&W made a practice of serial numbering frames before assembling them into finished guns, no one except that factory historian, Roy Jinks, can find you an exact date. The company will do this in exchange for a reasonable $30.00 search fee because they have to go back to find their shipping record for your particular gun. They can still do this even though it was probably made during the World War One era. My figure of 1916 is a calculated estimate, and nothing more.
On the top of the barrel there should be a series of patent dates. If so, what is the last one?
Because S&W made a practice of serial numbering frames before assembling them into finished guns, no one except that factory historian, Roy Jinks, can find you an exact date. The company will do this in exchange for a reasonable $30.00 search fee because they have to go back to find their shipping record for your particular gun. They can still do this even though it was probably made during the World War One era. My figure of 1916 is a calculated estimate, and nothing more.
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