Encoreman
Member
Hi all as the title suggests, I am thinking of getting a few leather wraps for a few of my lever Marlins and looking for advice from some that have put them on your firearms. Thanks Mac
Marlin lever gun leather wrap recommendations.
- Thread starter Encoreman
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chicharrones
needs more ammo
I have a 4.5" long wrap from Pioneer Gun Works on my 1894 CSBL with large loop. The wrap has an internal second layer of leather on the knuckle side of the wrap.
http://www.pioneergunworks.com/leather-goods-1
As can be seen in this post. https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...l-in-same-caliber.861380/page-5#post-11894023
http://www.pioneergunworks.com/leather-goods-1
As can be seen in this post. https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...l-in-same-caliber.861380/page-5#post-11894023
GBExpat
Member
1983 Marlin 1894S.
Like 3Crows, I just use paracord ... and the backs of my fingers always thank me, especially when I am not wearing gloves.
Like 3Crows, I just use paracord ... and the backs of my fingers always thank me, especially when I am not wearing gloves.
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guyfromohio
Member
Brass Stacker...
https://brassstacker.com/lever-action-rifle-products/
I’ve purchased lots of nice slings from them.
https://brassstacker.com/lever-action-rifle-products/
I’ve purchased lots of nice slings from them.
ApacheCoTodd
member
Generally, I prefer sinew or sinew-like materials.
In any case, a great *cheat* is to use one or two wraps of athletic tape as for hockey sticks and baseball bats first. It will round the edges of the lever nicely before applying your natural wrap lastly.
Todd.
In any case, a great *cheat* is to use one or two wraps of athletic tape as for hockey sticks and baseball bats first. It will round the edges of the lever nicely before applying your natural wrap lastly.
Todd.
GBExpat
Member
Both of those Pioneer Gun Works and Brass Stacker products look GREAT!
Crunchy Frog
Member
I like Ricochet Roy’s “baseball stitch” lever wraps. Very neat appearance.
Driftwood Johnson
Member
Howdy
Lots of guys in Cowboy Action Shooting put wraps on their levers. We are restricted to natural materials such as leather. You of course are not restricted to leather.
When I first started shooting CAS with my old Marlin Model 1894 (Made in 1895) I wrapped a leather thong around the lever. The same with Mrs Johnson's Marlin 1894CS.
Hint: If you are going to use leather, be sure to coat the metal with oil first. Ballistol is a good choice. Otherwise the leather may attract moisture and you may find rust under the leather if you remove it.
These days I don't have a wrap on any of my lever rifles. I took the wrap off my old Marlin after I had it tuned by a Cowboy gunsmith.
My main match rifle for the last ten years has been my Uberti 1860 Henry. I had it slicked up by the same gunsmith. I can shoot it all day long and the steel lever does not hurt my hand no matter how fast I cycle the action.
I used this Winchester Model 1892 as my Main Match rifle for a few years. It never needed a lever wrap, the action has been broken in over about 125 years and was very smooth without needing any slicking up.
After the 1892 I used this Uberti replica 1873 for a few years. It too was slicked up by the same gunsmith and never needed a lever wrap.
I have a bunch of other antique Winchesters which don't get shot all that much. But none of them has a lever wrap either.
All I'm saying is you might consider bringing your Marlins to a competent rifle smith. Most modern rifles (and revolvers too) are over sprung to counteract the internal friction left inside by the manufacturer. Once the bolt and other surfaces that rub against each other have been polished, removing a lot of the internal friction, a lighter hammer spring can often be substituted without loosing the reliability of being able to fire all brands of primers.
I have had this done to my antique Marlin as well as the Uberti 1873 and the Uberti Henry. I can fire them all day long and my knuckles never get sore from working the lever.
Lots of guys in Cowboy Action Shooting put wraps on their levers. We are restricted to natural materials such as leather. You of course are not restricted to leather.
When I first started shooting CAS with my old Marlin Model 1894 (Made in 1895) I wrapped a leather thong around the lever. The same with Mrs Johnson's Marlin 1894CS.
Hint: If you are going to use leather, be sure to coat the metal with oil first. Ballistol is a good choice. Otherwise the leather may attract moisture and you may find rust under the leather if you remove it.
These days I don't have a wrap on any of my lever rifles. I took the wrap off my old Marlin after I had it tuned by a Cowboy gunsmith.
My main match rifle for the last ten years has been my Uberti 1860 Henry. I had it slicked up by the same gunsmith. I can shoot it all day long and the steel lever does not hurt my hand no matter how fast I cycle the action.
I used this Winchester Model 1892 as my Main Match rifle for a few years. It never needed a lever wrap, the action has been broken in over about 125 years and was very smooth without needing any slicking up.
After the 1892 I used this Uberti replica 1873 for a few years. It too was slicked up by the same gunsmith and never needed a lever wrap.
I have a bunch of other antique Winchesters which don't get shot all that much. But none of them has a lever wrap either.
All I'm saying is you might consider bringing your Marlins to a competent rifle smith. Most modern rifles (and revolvers too) are over sprung to counteract the internal friction left inside by the manufacturer. Once the bolt and other surfaces that rub against each other have been polished, removing a lot of the internal friction, a lighter hammer spring can often be substituted without loosing the reliability of being able to fire all brands of primers.
I have had this done to my antique Marlin as well as the Uberti 1873 and the Uberti Henry. I can fire them all day long and my knuckles never get sore from working the lever.
GBExpat
Member
I have done the same (paracord) wrap but instead of using paracord, I use leather boot laces. Cannot burn leather to finish the wrap so I trim it close and put a drop of CA (Super Glue) on the end to fix it in place. The issue with leather, more so than synthetic materials, is that it could hold moisture against the blued steel. With a stainless rifle it is not a concern. I pulled the leather wrapping from my Marlin Texan for fear of rust. It looked pretty though.
greyling22
Member
I used a gutted paracord. It doesn't take much to soften the steel against your fingers when you run it fast.
that's the typical paracord wrap,
(not me, and not my video. And I googled it on mute, so if he's annoying or profane I apologize) but I shoved all the loops to the outside of the lever. With the gutted cord you can make the knots very tight. Then I soaked the whole thing in synthetic motor oil to hopefully keep the lever from rusting.[/MEDIA]
that's the typical paracord wrap,
(not me, and not my video. And I googled it on mute, so if he's annoying or profane I apologize) but I shoved all the loops to the outside of the lever. With the gutted cord you can make the knots very tight. Then I soaked the whole thing in synthetic motor oil to hopefully keep the lever from rusting.[/MEDIA]
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