Marlin MDL 60 - Trigger fails to reset/cock.

[icecorps]

Please help! Strange mechanical issue with Marlin Glenfield.

I found a used Marlin Model 60, and I'm almost happy with it.

Feeds & ejects fine, but about 30% of the time the trigger does not reset or the striker does not cock (not sure which describes it better).

With a round in chamber, I am able to pull the charging handle back and release it to allow it to be fired.

Bought used. After I noticed the problem I removed the stock and hosed out the action with breakfree. Cleared out a lot of crud. Still having problems.

Suggestions?

 

[icecorps]

Has anyone seen this before?

 

[mio]

are you using junk ammo like remington thunderbolt? that stuff can cause lots of wierd problems that go away once you buy something worth shooting.

 

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

Clean it a bit more thoroughly, then try again. Sounds like you still have crud in the trigger mechanism. A visual inspection of the trigger mechanism removed from the rifle should reveal the problem. If the rifle is old enough and worn enough, you may need a new spring or part, but my money is on dirt.

Regards,

Dave

 

[rangerruck]

you could have a week or bad spring, go over to the rimfirecentral.com boards, for marlin, tons of dudes have pics of just what you need to look for...

 

[icecorps]

Thanks guys. First I'll give it a bit more cleaning.

As far as ammo, I've tried a bit of everything to it it to work, but no thunderbolt & mostly plated bullets. Not sure what was used in it before I got it.

 

[Grump]

The disconnect function is in a bar on the left side of the trigger rail/assembly parts, which connects the trigger to the sear. The recoiling bolt pushes that bar down so its end no longer pushes on the sear's little rearward pointing bar (both about 1.25mm tall--sorry, I'm not visually calibrated below .25 inch) so the sear can reset.

A small and sometimes underpowered spring is supposed to push the trigger bar back up after the bolt goes forward. Your first blast of spray cleaner should have fixed that.

It's less likely because of stronger springs for there to be a sear reset problem, keeping it from catching the hammer. To tell the difference, pay attention to how hard it is to cycle the bolt. Hammer-down is noticeably harder to pull back than hammer-cocked. There is also almost no danger of doubling if the sear is not catching the hammer, because a hammer following the bolt down will dissipate too much of its energy pushing the bolt a bit faster, to ignite the rimfire priming.

I do NOT recommend taking the screws out of the trigger group rail-to-receiver holes, unless you are very, very, mechanically adept. You have three springs and too many parts to get dropped out of position there, especially in the casefeed block and cartridge lifter thingy.

An M16-type toothbrush thingy with the narrow side, a can of Carb cleaner, and follow-up with a non-gunkup oil like spray Rem Oil (about half of that stuff evaporates, but what's left is good) should do the trick for you.

Check the trigger bar spring to make sure it's not hanging up somewhere, too.

 

[icecorps]

Well, I disassembled a step further than last time, removed the assembly, discovered the buffer cracked in 4 pieces but still holding together. Cleaning it a bit more, and replacing the buffer before I try shooting it again. Maybe the broken buffer gave enough so that the recoil went into moving things around instead of resetting the striker?