Mauser 98 firing pin

Dirtybob

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Picked up a Husqvarna 640 yesterday and while doing a detail strip & clean I found the end of the firing pin is chewed up. Hopefully these pics are good enough to see the issue (best I can do with my camera...)
protrusion from bolt face:
CIMG3448.JPG

I don't have my calipers handy so no measurement taken but it appears to be a touch short...

pics of firing pin from opposite sides:
CIMG3451.JPG

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I assume my best option is to replace the firing pin and AFAIK this is an FN commercial 98 action.

two more pics:
CIMG3453.JPG

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So, is there more I should be aware of or am I ok ordering a firing pin from Numrich/Sarco/other?
 
Apex gun parts.

You could try to carefully stoning the burrs smooth and check the bolt body where the pin protrudes through the hole for further burrs and grease covered dirt causing further wear. Don't throw that firing pin away if you do end up replacing it. Now you'll have a cocking piece polishing, and a bolt body polishing tool.
 
Thank you.
Definitely no grease/dirt on the bolt body. There does appear to be a few 'pits' on the outer side of the bolt face pin hole (inside circumference) that do not make it all the way through to the the inside of the bolt body. My eyes say less than 1/3 the thickness of the metal.
Not a great pic but the best I can get...
CIMG3456.JPG
 
According to a search, it would appear that the Husqvarna 640 were built on Belgium Mauser 98 actions with Swedish barrels, etc.

Looking on Numrich, there is not much for Husqvarna parts, but there appears to be a pile of used and newly made Mauser 98 firing pins.

You might compare photo of those pins to yours. Or, give them a call. They may well know the answer.

That firing pin hole in the bolt face looks a tad rough.
 
I went ahead and ordered a firing pin from Apex. I read it should protrude between .055" and .065" will see when it arrives.
S/N on the barrell is 53647 and acc'd to the internet this gun was made in 1947 and is a Model 648 (640 in 8x57JS). I keep seeing 'FN commercial action' but IDK.
 
Yeah its a crap shoot when dealing with used gun parts. You never really know what you're going to get no matter what company you order parts from because the parts have been taken more often than not from orphaned receivers or they are declared new old stock. Well I hope that it works out for you.
 
New firing pin showed up, protrusion measured out to ~.059" (old pin measured ~.047").
Now I just need to get to the range...
 
Put 20 rounds of greek surplus through it today, four of them needed a second strike to go bang.
The spent brass didn't look too horrifying. Looks to be some cratering (I think this is the right term) of the primers and the casings expanded out not quite .008" larger than the unfired rounds. AFAIK this is (relatively) normal...
primers.JPG
brass.JPG
 
I have a K98 and suggest the original firing pin may have been dropped, the new pin should work fine. Misfires on military ammo (with hard primers) suggest you make sure the inside of the bolt is clean and lightly lubed. If it is, replace the firing pin spring. Does it fire commercial ammo ok? If not, a trip to a gunsmith is your best option.
 
Cleaned and oiled the inside of the bolt with carb cleaner, cotton swabs and patches before firing. Did it again (with hot water rather than carb cleaner) after firing that surplus ammo. Doubt it will pass the white glove test but is clean & lubed.
No commercial ammo yet, I do have some S&B ammo on the way. Will update when I get a chance.
 
Made it to the range today for a minute, managed to put a few rounds of S&B through it. No second strikes required.
It does appear to be flattening the primers but not cratering like with the surplus ammo.
Bolt lift after firing took less effort than with the milsurp ammo as well. I should probably see if I can get the headspace checked...
CIMG3462.JPG
CIMG3463.JPG
 
Without knowing more, I would be concerned about those rings showing on those cases. Makes me think you have incipient case separations. Between that and the flattened primers I'm guessing that your headspace is off.
 
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yep, I was so focused on the primers that I failed to notice the rings showing until after posting those pics.
 
yep, I was so focused on the primers that I failed to notice the rings showing until after posting those pics.

If you have a cartridge case headspace gauge you can measure a fired case and see if the shoulder moved a god awful distance. Such as what I did for my 30-30 cases.

4mqeFK7.jpg


Marlin New Haven reamed the chamber large, no doubt so their customers, who never cleaned their rifles, would not have difficultly chambering and extracting rounds.


A practice I have been doing, particularly with the belted magnums I own, is lubricating the cases on the first firing. The base to shoulder distance is not controlled in a belted magnum, and if the front of the case sticks to the chamber, the sidewalls are going to have to stretch to let the base touch the bolt face once the round is fired. And that is how you get case head separations. Now If I lubricate the case, on combustion it slides to the bolt face, and then as pressure builds, the shoulder folds out to fill the space available. The end result is a stress free, perfectly fire formed case. Then I use my case gauges, and only bump the shoulder back 0.003" when I size.

I recommend leaving sizing lube on, or if you are applying at the range, use a human compatible grease. Any grease will work, for that matter, I have shot tens of thousands of cases coated with Johnson paste wax. The wax melts under the temperatures and pressures of combustion and forms a lubricant layer. Just like the cartridges used in the Pedersen rifle. That rifle was a high pressure delayed blowback and needed case lubrication to function.

KMp8zlZ.jpg



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By the way, the Germans in WW1 and WW2 were coating their steel case 8 MM in wax, so the stuff would not stick in the chamber.

I have been using vasoline, or hair gels at the range. Hair gel is vasoline with a pleasing perfume. Neither will turn me into a dead bug if ingested.

A dip and twist is all you need:



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These are 300 H&H cases, god awful expensive, too expensive to ruin on first firing.

Shoots good.

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Your flattened primers could be signs of over pressure, but since you were firing SB commercial ammunition, I really doubt that. I am confident that what I am seeing is evidence of a big gap between the base of your cartridge, and the bolt face. On combustion, the primer back outs to the bolt face. Given that the front of your case is adhering to the front of the chamber, the case stays fixed until the pressures inside the case are sufficiently high to stretch the sidewalls. That is when the case head moves to the bolt face, stuffing the primer back in the pocket. In the duration, that primer is swelling like a muffin, and once stuffed back in the primer pocket, the primer appears flattened. It is a false indication of excessive pressure.

That is one reason I do load development with greased cases, bolt gun or gas gun. I want to see the transition from rounded to flattened primer based on internal pressure alone. Usually when I see a flattened primer on a lubricated case, I am well above maximum. Always had to reduce loads, by grains, from the transition point.

Also, the primer rings around the firing pin, may or may not be due to excessive pressure. A large gap between firing pin and firing pin hole will allow the primer to flow into the hole. However you are firing old surplus ammunition, stuff that was weeded out of military inventory because it had gotten too dangerous to issue, or to store. It is worth being cautious when you see primer cupping with old ammunition. As gunpowder deteriorates, it raises pressures in the case.

Temperatures exponentially accelerate the aging of nitrocellulose gunpowder:

rPNzqCj.jpg


and pressures increase in old gunpowder.

This TMO presentation is on DTIC.

CZps3uJ.jpg
 
I did a bit of homework on this and am also sure it's excessive headspace. For me, the reloaders tricks are academic since I don't reload (yet anyways).

Case stretching excessively. (This is usually visible as pressure ring area stretching which may be due to excess pressure or to excess headspace. Use a bent paperclip or other probe to feel for thinning at the pressure ring. In rear bolt lug guns, the whole case may lengthen before resizing and be impossible to rechamber without sizing.)

I found cracks inside two of the S&B cases (none in the milsurp) using a probe.
Almost none of the once fired brass would rechamber in the action.
Removed a spent primer from the S&B and it had a definite 'muffin top' but no signs of carbon/gas leakage past the primer cup.

Pretty much out of my hands at this point, time for a gunsmith.
 
I did a bit of homework on this and am also sure it's excessive headspace. For me, the reloaders tricks are academic since I don't reload (yet anyways).

Case stretching excessively. (This is usually visible as pressure ring area stretching which may be due to excess pressure or to excess headspace. Use a bent paperclip or other probe to feel for thinning at the pressure ring. In rear bolt lug guns, the whole case may lengthen before resizing and be impossible to rechamber without sizing.)

Pretty much out of my hands at this point, time for a gunsmith.
You do not have to go to a gunsmith as this is a manageable situation. Excessive chamber headspace is manageable as long as it does not result in excessive cartridge case protrusion. I consider cartridge case protrusion a greater safety issue, by orders of magnitude, than base to shoulder chamber headspace.

Chamber headspace is important if the shoulder is so far forward the case shoulder is resting on basically nothing, which will result in weak ignition. The strongest ignition results when the case shoulder is firmly resting on the chamber shoulder. And it is not good if chamber headspace is so large it results in case head separations. But if you lubricate your cases, and only bump the shoulder back 0.003", you will not have case head separations or weak ignition the next time you fire that case.


Excessive cartridge case head protrusion is very dangerous, and Glock owners found that out, long ago.

eYdsXPr.jpg


QwsrZXE.jpg


wu7GeAm.jpg



This is a Mauser barrel, the cartridge is seated deep. Very little of the case head is unsupported.

eUXibtK.jpg


Read Earl Naramore baby:

uGtjTMr.jpg


This is a M1903 barrel with the cone breech and more case head sticking out of the chamber.

mgWVePU.jpg


Naramore again:

rQZXM8q.jpg


the 80Kpsia 6.8 X 51mm, they had to go to steel because a brass case head would blow out.

utoNCmw.jpg



The thing is, if your cartridge case head protrusion is OK, once you blow out the shoulders of your case by fireforming, the only safety issues you can have will be due to poor metallurgy and over pressure loads. That is, loading so hot, you actually peen the receiver seats, and create excessive case head protrusion.

I don't know the causes of this blowup, but I believe this may be a Swedish Mauser chambered in 308 Win, the operating pressures of which were above the proof pressures of the 6.5 X 55 round.

f1bz9z0.jpg



or it could have just been hot loads, inappropriate for the heat treatment and metallurgy of the rifle. The Swedish service round operated at 43,000 psia, and the metal was not heat treated for 60 Kpsia loads.

Cartridge case protrusion in a rifle is typically determined by headspace gauges, the assumption is, if the headspace is too long, the case head protrusion is excessive. This will not be true if the chamber was reamed too deep.

Anyway, do what you want.
 
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