Mauser guys: is this a good deal?

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valnar said:
Since 8mm surplus ammo is now gone, it doesn't pay today to buy one quite as much as a few years ago.
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http://gun-deals.com/ammo.php?caliber=8mm+Mauser

At 20 cents a round, I would hardly classify it as 'gone'. The Mauser 96 definitely is a great rifle though, and pretty unique amongst the lineage with its cock-on-closing action. I'd get both if you have the money, just because Swede guns are so well made and fire such a pleasant and accurate cartridge.

WardenWolf said:
Lighter bullets tend to generate sharp, painful recoil. Heavier bullets dampen that significantly. That's a lesson I learned on my Mosin Nagant.
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Also, I was under the impression that the opposite was true?
 
Phaethon said:
http://gun-deals.com/ammo.php?caliber=8mm+Mauser

At 20 cents a round, I would hardly classify it as 'gone'. The Mauser 96 definitely is a great rifle though, and pretty unique amongst the lineage with its cock-on-closing action. I'd get both if you have the money, just because Swede guns are so well made and fire such a pleasant and accurate cartridge.



Also, I was under the impression that the opposite was true?
Click to expand...
Nope. Switching from surplus and Wolf 150-grain ammo to Silver Bear 203-grain ammo made it significantly less sharp. It's now a heavy push and very manageable.
 
I have a vz24 I bought from big5 12 years ago for $99 and though it's a rough looking rifle with a frosted bore it's put many deer in the freezer. I have a box of Remington 170gr core-lokt I've been using to hunt with and almost 6,000rds of 8mm Yugo 50s, 60s and 70s Surplus. Most being 50s and I've never had a misfire with any of it. The first 100rds I bought was 12 years ago and still have some that wasn't stored in the best conditions until recently. I ordered two of these recent vz24s from AIM last night and they look way better than my current vz24. I also have a 24/47 and an M48. So far the vz24 is my favorite. You won't be disappointed.

AIM has some more 8mm surplus coming also. Don't know when it'll be here for sure but it's in the pipe.
 
Wardenwolf:
My Yugo 48A had some fairly frequent misfires with my Yugo (maybe with the Czech ammo), until a stronger Wolff spring was installed. There was no more need to make a second attempt with any round.

Ironically, I lost interest in the rifle because of the sights. It has been a very lonely gun for over a year and will only be sold FTF in the Memphis area, or FTF at a gun show.
My only shooting now is mostly with my other milsurp rifles, all of which have aperture sights-even the SKS:).
 
That price seems high for a Russian refinish IMHO. Original VZ's run around $325 or so in my AO.

The 8mm surplus needs a clean bolt, a full strength striker spring and the striker protrusion must be at spec. Any of those three off and you have miss fires.
 
Pics for those interested. It was greasy but these pics are after a wipe down with paper towels and then rags with CLP. click for larger. From what I can tell the darker crud on the stock is just hardened grease or some other kind of scale. I imagine it will come off with a good cleaning. The only wood that's dinged at all is the rear handguard.

I could use a tutorial on disassembly if anyone can direct me to one.

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BTW I paid $10 extra for "hand pick, best of 5" but I don't know how they would have been able to tell with all the grease. So maybe that counts as, like, a "tip" for them. :D
 
Looks good. I am itching to get mine.

It has arrived but I won't be able to pick it up till Friday.
 
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Well 2 rounds with citri-strip have done nothing to the black scaly (I assume) baked on grease on the stock... mineral spirits and purple power and degreaser and hot water and soap have done nothing to it.

I haven't tried steam/heat yet but I guess I will have to. The stock is in nearly new shape with a billion little proof stamps and numbers everywhere so I don't want to sand/steam/whatever too much but I guess it can't be helped.

The metal is completely disassembled (not too complicated), degreased and oiled. The bore was REALLY cruddy. 4 rounds with foaming bore cleaner and it's still coming out black. Rifling is strong but the bore still looks a bit rough/dark; not sure if it's more crud or just rough metal. I'm tired of cleaning it and thought more than once about trying an electrolysis setup.

I really just need to get the stock done and the rifle back together so I can shoot it and see if it even works well enough. I've never seen crusty/stubborn black greasy crud like this before. :confused:
 
1k I think I saw on another post regarding Mosins and Cosmoline in the stock they suggested to put it in a couple black trashbags and let it sit out in the heat. Thanks for posting the tutorial that will be very helpful.
 
Yeah, I've read the trashbag thing many times for general grease removal. This stuff seems more problematic. I may try heat and see if it seems to have any effect on it. It's almost like it's part of the wood or epoxy or something.

Re: the tutorial, I had to use a wood drift to remove the front band (and the rear band, actually, after removing the screw) as described. That was very helpful.

I still can't figure out why the cleaning rod is only half as long as the barrel... Someone told me they took two or three from a unit and threaded them together to make one rod to clean everyone's rifles, but that doesn't make sense as the rods are threaded only on one end. :confused:
 
Mine is just under 15" I am not sure what the deal is with it, but I am going to continue to search out of curiosity.
 
well after the last round of stripper/mineral spirits/soapy water dried, the scale is gone but the wood is stained dark/black where it was. I tried a hair dryer on one section and it got shiny and started showing specks of goo/oil, so I guess it's old cosmo soaked into the wood. I guess I'll wrap it in paper towels and put it in a trash bag in my car for a few days. I can't imagine it'll all come out.
 
I'm tired of cleaning it and thought more than once about trying an electrolysis setup.


never ever clean a gun with this methode , as youll make the hardened metal
briddle with this methode.
 
yes , there is some evidence to back this statement up.
in holland we call this "koolstof brosheid", when i translate this to english
i got the word "carbon briddelness ".
its the same thing what happens to a bold or nut when its zinc plated.
the process of electrolyse chances the carbon factor in the metal.
this is also the reason why high quality bolds , where strenght is needed ,
never are zinc plated , but are given a black refinish.
 
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