MEC Jr- how does it work?

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Grayrock

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I have the opportunity to buy a MEC 600Jr reloader for what I consider a good price. I helped my uncle reload shells many moons ago and remember a little of the process. How is the MEC 600 Jr set up? Does it do just 1 shell at a time? Do you pull the handle for each step? If so, is that like 4 to 6 pulls to get 1 shell? I'll build up a bicep if thats the case. Any difference setting it up to reload Triple 7 as opposed to smokeless powder?
 
Contact MEC [Mayville Engineering Corp] for Instruction manual and owner's guide. Also these folks are super nice and easy to deal with on any components such as shot bottles wad fingers, and anything else.
Sometimes local areas do not stock MEC accessories.

http://www.mayvl.com/

Each stage of reloading , requires one stroke of the handle.

One gets into a rythmn and can crank out loads faster than you think. Even if one has a progressive, a single stage is great for building up new loads.

FWIW, unless mandated to use Factory shells , I always shot my competition loads reloaded on a single stage for serious shoots. I had progressives in all 4 gauges, still when serious shooting was on the line, I had 4 single stage MECs, one (at least) in each gauge.

[I had 11 MECs up and running at one time, explains why I never got into metallic - huh? :p ]

Great reloader, great company!
 
It’s like a turret press but instead of moving the dies to do a separate function you move the hull to the next holder. Except for the powder charging station the first pull you seat the primer and move the charge bar to drop the powder. Then you raise the handle and install a wad lower the handle to seat the wad. Then you move the charge bar to drop the shot. Now you can move the hull to the next holder to start the crimp. Then to the last station to finish the crimp.

Oops forgot to tell ya the first station sizes and nocks the primer out. I have Mec’s 650 which are progressive presses and each pull of the handle will produce a completed round, all you have to do is turn the shell plate and install an empty hull and wad after each pull of the handle. The 600 Jr. you can get for around $50.00 used and a 650 for about $100.00 used. Both are good reloaders. IMO Hope this helps.
 
That and you have to get different charge bars for certain loads. The powder side takes bushings.

I got 2 for free from a buddy. One for 20 guage and another for 2 3/4 and 3" 12 guage.:D
 
I'm the 2nd generation using the same MEC 600jr. :) I helped my dad load when I was younger, so it's ingrained into my DNA. :p

As suggested eariler, go to MEC's web site and download the PDF for the manual. Here's a quick overview:

1) Left bottle is for shot, right bottle is for powder. Mixing them up is bad. :)
2) Make sure the charge bar is pushed fully to the right before flipping the bottles over.
3) Place hull in farthest right position, lower and raise handle. This deprimes and resizes the brass base.
4) Place primer in primer cup, base down, place hull on top of primer cup, lower and raise handle. You'll get used to the feel, but it's a solid stop when the primer is seated.
5) Place hull in position 3, LOWER HANDLE, then slide charge bar to the left. This drops the powder charge. If you don't lower the handle before moving the bar you're going to be cleaning up powder. :)
6) Raise handle and place wad on top of wad fingers, wad surrounding the chromed tube (placing the wad involves inserting the wad onto the chromed tube, raising it up, the placing it on top of the wad fingers when the bottom of the wad is clear).
7) LOWER HANDLE, slide charge bar to the right, raise handle. This seats the wad and drops the shot. Like the powder, sliding the bar without the handle down means clean up. And vaccum cleaners don't like picking up shot. :)
8) CAREFULLY move hull to position 4, lower and raise handle. This creates first stage crimp. Spilling the hull before crimp means you're back to trying to pick up spilled shot. :)
9) Slide hull to position 5, lower and raise handle. This creates 2nd stage crimp and finishes the round. Congrats!

A couple of additional points:
Depending on how old the loader is and whether you have a new charge bar, you may get resistance when dropping the shot (bar left to right). This is because a piece of shot gets caught between the bar and the bottle adapter above. Smacking the bar with the heel of the hand will cut the shot and cause the bar to move over. However it also eventually beats the hell out of your hand. :) Try sliding the bar back and forth slightly. Be CAREFUL you don't slide the bar back so far you drop another powder charge all over your bench. Newer charge bars have a plastic insert to avoid this problem.

As mentioned eariler, it's very easy to get into a rhythm and surprise yourself how quickly you can reload. Component placement is the key. Empty hulls to outside right, new primers to inside right, wads to inside right, finished shell storage to outside left.

Everyone gets their own procedure. Here's mine:
Station 1:
I place hull with right hand
pull lever with left

Station 2:
place primer and move hull with right
pull lever with left

Station 3:
place hull with right
and pull lever with left
drop powder with right
raise lever
place wad with right
pull lever with left
switch to right hand on lever
drop shot with left
raise lever with right

Station 4:
move hull with left
lower and raise lever with right

Station 5:
move hull with left
lower and raise lever with right
remove finished hull with left
switch hands and start over.

It's sounds complicated but sit down at the press and it will make sense. Hope this is helpful!
 
Falconeer- very detailed- thanks. So if I read it right, you pull the handle 5 times up and down to get 1 shell. I have read about the adjustable charge bars- how do they work? I am looking at loading 20 gauge shells with Triple 7 powder (for my CAS shooting).
 
Glad to help!

That's correct, five pulls for one shell. MEC also makes true progressives (each station is filled, each pull produces one shell) but I've never used them; the 600jr has always been enough. :)

I've never used the adjustable charge bars myself, but my understanding is they have a screw adjustment on the side which increases or decreses the volume of the powder cavity. Unless you're going to be loading a bunch of different types of shell, or are doing specific load development you're better off just getting the bushings. Check this out for a PDF of the powder bushing chart and charge bar info showing what size bushing drop show much powder.

One BIG caveat here; I believe Triple 7 is a black powder substitute. I've never done any black powder shotgun shooting or loading. I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work, but you probably want to contact MEC directly and confirm that. :)
 
Got it mounted. Now to adjust. The 1st station to resize seems to stop about 1/8" from the top of the rim of the shell. Is this normal or do I need to make it go down deeper?
 
Greyrock said:
Got it mounted. Now to adjust. The 1st station to resize seems to stop about 1/8" from the top of the rim of the shell. Is this normal or do I need to make it go down deeper?
That should be fine. You want to make sure the station kicks the hull out on the upstroke, but doesn't bottom out on the plate on the downstroke.
 
Then I am copacetic.

I looked inside the final crimping die(?)/ attachment/ tool and it is kinda rusty in there. Is that cool- or do I need to take it apart and clean out the rust?
 
Greyrock said:
I looked inside the final crimping die(?)/ attachment/ tool and it is kinda rusty in there. Is that cool- or do I need to take it apart and clean out the rust?
I wouldn't expect the rust to affect loading at all, but you probably want to clean it out to help maintain the press.
 
Do you know of a table that gives the volume of each of the different bushings? For example, how many milliliters or cubic centimeters is the #24 powder bushing?
 
Suggested bushings are listed in various reloading / powder manuals for a Recipe.

Weighing is a must! Never take for granted a "bushing recommendation" is actually correct.
Printing may be wrong, powders differ , lots of same powder differ, how a person operates a reloader...
Just as one would with metallic reloading - always weigh.

I "throw" 3 , weigh on scales, and divide by 3 to actually know what that bushing throws for me , with that powder on that reloader.


Falconeer Excellent write up!

Steve
 
Weighing is a must!

But my problem is that I'm going to be "throwing" Triple Seven, which is measured/loaded volumetrically- NOT by weight. So I need to figure out which bushing will dispense the proper volume (as in cubic centimeters). It is looking like I am just going to have to figure it out by trial and error.
 
I think there is a difference

As I recall from way back, Triple 7 is hotter then real black powder, so you might want to check with someone knowledgeable on that, in case my memory is correct. The figure 15% comes to mind.
 
Triple 7 is hotter then real black powder
The figure 15% comes to mind

You are quite correct. My dilemma is finding the right way to measure out the volume I need. I will be able to find the volume I need, I just need a way to measure it out with the proper bushing.
 
Grayrock: Check this out; it's the powder bushing chart from MEC. You might check with Hodgdon (they make Triple 7?), they can probably give you a ratio comparison to one of their other powders. aka 1 cc of Titewad = 1.7 cc of Triple 7 (example, not real). That would give you a way to compare the MEC bushings and find what should be the correct one. Then buy the bushing, drop some powder and see if it works. :) The bushings themselves are pretty cheap ($2.59 each from MidwayUSA).

sm: Thanks kindly!
 
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