Melted Rem Cloth

[yo1dog]

I was using a green Remington "Rem Cloth with MoistureGaurd" and "Break-Free Powder Blast Gun Cleaner" to clean the stainless steal receiver of my Remington 10/22 takedown. The receiver was upside-down on top of the cloth and I was spraying the Break-Free into the receiver and scrubbing it. After a couple minutes of cleaning I turned the receiver over and there was a thin layer of a green substance on the top of the receiver. Almost exactly like wax. I could pick off the substance with my fingernail but it was tough. The stuff was stuck on there pretty good. You can see at the end were I was able to pick some off with my fingernail:


(click images for full-size)

I figured the Break-Free had dissolved or melted something in the cloth the receiver was on. I socked a papertowel in Break-Free and let the receiver sit on that for a couple minutes. When I turned the receiver over again the green wax was liquid-y and falling off in the sheets. However, not all of it came off and some of it ran down the sides of the receiver. The top and sides of the receiver now have a very very thin and almost invisible waxy coating that you can feel and pick off with your fingernail. You can see this especially on the right side:


(click images for full-size)

What happened? How do I get it off?

It doesn't look like any got inside the receiver. Is it still safe to shoot this weekend?

Should I fill up a tub with Break-Free and submerge the receiver for a while to see if it comes off?

Thanks,
- Mike

 

[rcmodel]

You took the clear-coat finish off the receiver Ruger put on it.

Might as well try to finish stripping it all off now.

There is no safety issue.
Just cosmetically challenged now.

rc

 

[flathats]

Did the same thing on a Savage barrel.... took all the blueing? off....now it's oil daily...

 

[Kp321]

I have not fooled with a 10-22 takedown, is it stainless or aluminum? Sounds like aluminum with a clear coat of some type. Find a Duracoat applicator and have it coated with a clear coat, either satin or gloss.

 

[BBBBill]

The RUGER 10/22 receiver is aluminum with a clear coat. As noted above, strip it and recoat if you wish. Bare is fine, but it will be harder to keep clean.

 

[Reloadron]

Breakfree eats plastics and plastic coatings. Here is how I managed to strip the clear coat finish on one of my 1911 grips:



I knew it too and whenever I use that stuff I remove the grips, not good when you forget.

As mentioned it's a cosmetic thing and won't affect the rifle's function. Just makes it look ugly like my grip.

Ron

 

[yo1dog]

Oh. Well damn. I didn't even know it had a coating on it. Any other invisible coatings I should know about before I ruin more? It sounds like Break-Free is dangerous for the ignorant. Are there any other solvents or type of solvents I should be wary of?

Is the coating on the outside only? I didn't notice any problems on the inside of the receiver.

I had never really cleaned my 10/22 before and there was a lot of carbon buildup. What should I use instead of Break-Free that wont melt away the finish (even more)?

 

[desidog]

I did the same thing with the same product a few years ago. I fully stripped it and painted it OD green with a rattle-can.

It kind of surprised me since i assumed a factory finish would be more durable.

They don't spray the inside of the receiver.

Also, on a related note, vinegar removes bluing.

 

[Drail]

I have used Breakfree for 30 years and have never seen it "melt" anything. I think the problem is manufacturers who "paint" their guns. Fortunately I do not own any firearms with a "painted" finish. Why they would choose any type of finish that can be damaged by what has become one of the most popular gun cleaning solvents in the world is beyond me.

 

[Reloadron]

I have used Breakfree for 30 years and have never seen it "melt" anything. I think the problem is manufacturers who "paint" their guns. Fortunately I do not own any firearms with a "painted" finish. Why they would choose any type of finish that can be damaged by what has become one of the most popular gun cleaning solvents in the world is beyond me.

Well if you have been using it for 30 years you surely have read the can, the part that spells out:

IMPORTANT: This product is a powerful solvent. DO NOT APPLY TO RUBBER OR PLASTIC GRIPS OR PARTS. Remove promptly with a cloth to avoid possible plastic damage. Powder Blast may damage painted finishes, camouflage finishes, and wood finishes and most polymers. Use with caution.

IMPORTANT: This product is extremely flammable. Use only in well ventilated areas. Do not allow vapors to accumulate. Do not use in the presence of sparks, static discharge, flames or other sources of ignition.

So yeah as long as you don't own anything with a painted finish things are fine.

The stuff does eat some finishes so it does pay to read the can. Then too, I read the can, knew that and forgot to remove the grips on one of my 1911s.

Ron

 

[yo1dog]

I read the can before using it and saw that warning. I kept it from getting on any plastic parts but I had no idea about the plastic coating on the reciever.

 

[rcmodel]

Live & learn as they say!

Too bad, but stuff happens.

Ruger will probably refinish it at no cost if you call them an whine like a whipped dog long enough.

PS: the older 10/22 's had a hard anodized finish as part of the receiver & Trigger guard.
They were bullet proof against anything.

Too bad they decided to cheapen manufacturing costs .50 cents per gun by switching to spray paint.

rc

 

[asknight]

The Break Free CLP won't do that to a 10/22 nearly as quickly as Break Free Powder Blast solvent, which is what the OP was using.

Edited to add: Don't get that stuff near a hydrodipped camo shotgun, or you'll be sending it back to have it fully stripped and re-dipped! Don't ask me how I know.

 

[Reloadron]

The Break Free CLP won't do that to a 10/22 nearly as quickly as Break Free Powder Blast solvent, which is what the OP was using.

Edited to add: Don't get that stuff near a hydrodipped camo shotgun, or you'll be sending it back to have it fully stripped and re-dipped! Don't ask me how I know.

Good point, need to distinguish between them.

Ron