Metal-to-Wood Fit Marker?

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commygun

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I'm probably going to express this poorly.

In this instance I'm talking about a barreled action and it's wood stock but this must have a million possible applications. What easily removeable medium can I apply to a metal surface that will leave a well-delineated mark, on the wood, of where it made contact (and didn't make contact) when mated to a wood stock. That is, the wood you can't see when the metal and wood are together. I've tried various things with poor results. There must be a time-tested method that the professional fitter uses.
Any thoughts or advice would be much appreciated.
 
For goodness sake, don't use lipstick! It makes a huge mess and is horrible to remove.

I generally use Permatex Prussian Blue. It comes in a tube and is available from a good Auto parts store. Seems like the last I got came from Auto Zone, and they had to order it from Permatex, but it works great. It cleans off the metal surface with Brakleen, which you can also get at the same parts store. I use a standard acid brush to apply the Prussian blue to the rifle.

Bill Jacobs
 
The inletting black from Track of the Wolf is the same (Jerrow's) as Brownells use sell.I've used it for years and it works well.The last time I bought some the container was marked Not for use or sale in California.
 
I've also used lipstick to inlet muzzle loader kits with good results. Another trick is to get it from the wife so it's free.
 
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The old musket makers of the 17th and 18th centuries blackened the metal with the flame of a candle. The soot would transfer to the wood where the two met, allowing the fitter to see where inletting needed to be done. That is probably the oldest method known.

If you want something a little more modern I recommend Prussian Blue (made by Permatex) over inletting black compound. The blue is much easier to see on lighter, unfinished woods like birch and maple. Not so much on American Walnut or other dark woods. You can find it at most auto body stores, Amazon, Grainger etc. Use a very, very small amount. A small dab on a Qtip will be enough compound to cover most modern day trigger groups. And you only have to really put it on the "high" marks that will be closest to the wood. Cleanup is long and important. Wipe off excess with a paper towel or rag. Gun oil for the smeared and harder to reach. Keep it out of crevices as much as possible.
 
3 oz alcohol burner with adjustable rope style wick. Replace alcohol with mineral spirits. Clean the metal of all oil and grease with acetone, soot the clean metal where contact may be made. Mineral spirits is slow to ignite, or evaporate and is easy to replace. I have used this one burner since 81 when I found it in kitchen supply store, it was originally made to heat hot food serving dishes by caterers.
 
I prefer the Jerrow's inletting black also, except I do thin it with 3 in 1 oil and keep it in a raw clay potting dish. The clay absorbs the oil and then the black only needs a bit of refreshing with oil for the next time used.
 
I've also used lipstick to inlet muzzle loader kits with good results. Another trick is to get it from the wife so it's free.

That is my source. She always has a tube or two laying around that she decided she didn't care for the color. I have never had any complaints from the stocks I have used it on about the color.
 
Like others already mentioned - soot from a paraffin candle. Cheap, easy to apply, easy to see, does not add a thick layer on metal like lipstick and does not contaminate the wood with (colored) wax.
 
Like others already mentioned - soot from a paraffin candle. Cheap, easy to apply, easy to see, does not add a thick layer on metal like lipstick and does not contaminate the wood with (colored) wax.

Just wipe with alcohol and it's gone plus it is very soft so it doesn't make a thick layer. Use what you want, I'll stick with my lipstick because it is easy to apply and works.
 
When I'm inletting a stock I mark the metal parts with a black dry-erase marker. This easily rubs off the metal showing the contact points, and leaves a smudge on the wood where it needs to be shaved down. The dry erase markers are inexpensive and are easily wiped off the metal with a rag or paper towel. There is no big mess and the marking isn't a liquid so it won't soak into the wood. I've found this method to be infinitely better and cleaner than using lipstick or Prussian blue, and faster & easier than smoking the parts.
 
I use the oil lamp for both wood and metal fitting. Relatively inexpensive and I all I need is the oil that can be had locally. Just don’t buy the soot/smoke’ free oil. It really is soot free.
 
I've used carbon copy paper for similar use.

Also, dental articulating paper smaller but is very similar and can be had in different thicknesses
 
I’m very surprised my gunsmith supply vender Brownells no longer carries Jerrow’s in-letting black. That’s where I bought mine.
Oh well things change in a half a century and Bob is no longer with us! Bob was a very dear friend to me back I early 70s when I hung out my gunshop shingle at the age of 22.
 
My issue with soot is that when you are working with it for several hours doing an inletting job, the soot from the lamp, torch, or whatever, goes into the air and settles back down on stuff in the shop. It really doesn't take a lot of time to make a mess.
 
I’m very surprised my gunsmith supply vender Brownells no longer carries Jerrow’s in-letting black. That’s where I bought mine.
Oh well things change in a half a century and Bob is no longer with us! Bob was a very dear friend to me back I early 70s when I hung out my gunshop shingle at the age of 22.

Bob was a "jewel". These days it seems whenever I need to order something, it's a back-order situation. No more FFL discounts, or of those that are offered, don't amount to much. Must be that "third generation syndrome". Seems if you're not ordering anything for an AR, you need to L@@K elsewhere for the stuff desired. Oh well, I'm acquiring a whole new bunch of contacts these days, so this 'ol dog has indeed been learning some new tricks. :)
 
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