Mexican Mauser

[JmacD]

My apologies if I have already asked this question. I did some looking, and I don’t think that I have. I have a sporterized, Mexican Mauser, it’s chambered in 250 savage for what it’s worth. The safety has always had some issues. I believe it was, possibly converted to a timney Wayback in the day, and it was altered so it would work with the scope. That said, it has a very bad habit of shutting itself off I’m getting ready to put a new trigger on it, and it’s not going to have a 4 inch and 12 pound trigger pull. So I definitely want to change something out as far as the safety goes. I’m curious if anyone has ever tried putting one of the model 70 safety style bolt shroud on a Mexican Mauser. Most of these appear to be for a model 98, but the Mexican Mauser is a little bit of an anomaly, and I understand that there are a lot of parts that are interchangeable. I’m just curious if there’s somebody here that’s actually done it.

 

[Mauser fan]

Give us some pictures to better help you. Honestly the chambering is of little consequence when it comes telling what it is worth considering that finding brass or commercial ammo for that chambering is a daunting challenge but not impossible.
What will determine what it is worth is overall condition and what the current market demand.
Since you are saying that the safety isn't working properly. That is why a picture is needed to determine the best way to help you address that issue.

 

[4v50 Gary]

We had to install chapman swing safeties on our Mausers. You need a milling machine and a lot of time.

 

[Slamfire]

My apologies if I have already asked this question. I did some looking, and I don’t think that I have. I have a sporterized, Mexican Mauser, it’s chambered in 250 savage for what it’s worth. The safety has always had some issues. I believe it was, possibly converted to a timney Wayback in the day, and it was altered so it would work with the scope. That said, it has a very bad habit of shutting itself off I’m getting ready to put a new trigger on it, and it’s not going to have a 4 inch and 12 pound trigger pull. So I definitely want to change something out as far as the safety goes. I’m curious if anyone has ever tried putting one of the model 70 safety style bolt shroud on a Mexican Mauser. Most of these appear to be for a model 98, but the Mexican Mauser is a little bit of an anomaly, and I understand that there are a lot of parts that are interchangeable. I’m just curious if there’s somebody here that’s actually done it.

M70 type safeties require very precise location of the trigger sear, the firing pin sear, and the safety notch on the firing pin. If the firing pin moves back or forward just a tiny bit, relative to the sear surfaces, it becomes about impossible to put the safety on.

Commercial aftermarket parts were not a consideration with the design and build of military rifles. Military action tolerances were specific to the time and date of manufacture and could vary! Whether your after market trigger will line up. or not, was not an issue to the rifle maker.

It will probably take a gunsmith with a real machine shop to mill, grind, everything in alignment for a M70 trigger to work on an old military action.

You will find, if you have an sporter built around an old military action, and it works, don't mess with it. Change parts and you will discover new and novel malfunctions. Darn things are like a house of cards.

 

[BBBBill]

Is it one of these Timney safeties (remake of the old Beuhler)? - https://timneytriggers.com/mauser-safety-low-profile/
Always worked good for me.
Then there are these Timney triggers with a Remington style safety - https://timneytriggers.com/mauser-featherweight-deluxe/
You can install a slick bolt shroud, also similar to the Remmy piece, to smooth up the back of the gun.

 

[792mauser]

The words "Mexican Mauser" open up a can of worms without pictures.

It could be a small ring 95, or a small ring 98, or a large ring 98.

Mexico made a bunch of different rifles and bought small runs from Europe regularly.

 

[Bluestone]

I have a Mexican model 1936 action that I will install a side swing safety on when I build it out as a sporter. The situation that you described is very unsafe. Both a factory flag style safety and a Beuhler (Timney) safety should not disengage on their own. When they are installed many aftermarket safeties require some fitting, especially if the trigger & sear have been replaced with an aftermarket trigger. If the sear is holding the cocking piece slightly more forward than normal, as can sometimes happen with an aftermarket trigger, or the engagement surface on the safety is a little thicker than a factory safety, then the camming surface on the safety might push against the side surface of the cocking piece instead of acting like a wedge on the face of the cocking piece and pushing it back away from the sear. When this happens the safety won't engage. The proper way to fit such a safety is to alter the wedge on it's camming surface so that the wedge will start engaging the cocking piece on its face, and as the safety is rotated it will push the cocking piece back.

There's a semicircular depression on the face of the safety's camming surface that the face of the cocking piece will seat into when the safety is fully on. This small depression is so that the safety will not turn itself off, as the firing pin spring tension on the cocking piece will be holding the cocking piece in that depression. The problem with fitting these types of safeties is usually caused by Bubba. Bubba thinks he knows what he's doing, but he does not. When a new safety is installed and it will not rotate into the safe position, Bubba realizes that the wedge on the firing pin cam isn't getting in front of the cocking piece. So, instead of thinning down the wedge, Bubba grinds an angled relief on the front of the cocking piece. Oh boy - hurray! the safety can now rotate into position. Only problem is that now the cocking piece isn't going to seat properly in that depression on the safety's cam. In fact, with the firing pin spring pressing on it, if that angled surface on the cocking piece is big enough the tension may actually be trying to turn the safety off.

With the safety in the condition that you described the cocked firearm, with the safety on, may not be able to pass a bump test. (bumping the butt of the firearm against the floor to make sure that the rifle won't accidentally discharge) I suggest that you strip down the bolt and inspect both the safety and the cocking piece. If the face of the cocking piece has had an angled surface ground onto it you should discard it and get a new cocking piece. If it's a model 1910 Mexican, then a standard model 98 cocking piece will work. If its a model 1936 I only know of one place where you can get a new one and they cost around $100 If this isn't the problem, then were going to need pictures and more information.

P.S. If you intend to replace the trigger, do that before you fit the safety. A new trigger might hold the cocking piece either farther forward or farther back than the original trigger, both of which might require fitting the safety.

 

[JmacD]

Thanks all for the input. I’ll get some pictures and get back to you

 

[JmacD]

Sorry for the delay; I have been on the road and then very busy after I got home. Here are some photos.

Here is the crest etc
Bolt disassembled with the shroud/safe lever there visible
Bolt partly apart
Stock/current trigger assembly.
Definitely a small ring.

This is a gun that’ll been in the family, so I’m not really looking at the value etc. I’m more after making it actually safe to use. On the bench, it shoots sun moa, and I’ve killed deer with it no problem, but the saftey self cancelation attempts are not something I’m willing to risk.

 

[JmacD]

This is the specific shroud and saftey I’m talking about. I’m not sure about it’s compatibility with the current bolt etc.

I’m planning this trigger. I could use the deluxe with the saftey, but I personally prefer the type that interferes with the pin hitting the primer vs rem style. But that’s just me and also a different subject

 

[JmacD]

Any Input?

 

[Bluestone]

Based on the photos that you posted you have a model 1910 Mexican Mauser. This is a small ring version of the model 98 Mauser. The low scope safety that's on your action is an aftermarket part. Make sure that you're getting the correct Timnet trigger for your action. In example, a trigger for a 1893 Spanish will not work with a 1895 Chilean receiver (they don't make a trigger for the '95) without doing some modifications to the tang. Even if it is the correct trigger for your receiver the sear may hold the cocking piece in a different position than the military trigger. The only way that you're going to know if the safety is going to need gunsmithing is to install the parts and see how they work. Be completely sure of how everything works and why before removing any metal: its a lot easier to take off than it is to put back on. There is the distinct possibility that the stars may align and everything will work together perfectly. Hopefully that will be the case.

 

[LoonWulf]

I think thats the same trigger ive got in my meximauser. My safety is a different version of the same style. Friend of mine is borrowing the gun right now or id go check.
AFAIK the Mexis use the same bolt parts as the 98, cept the firing pin is shorter (original owner put a 98 pin in my gun) so the win style shroud SHOULD work.