Model 27: hammer down on loaded cylinder?

[peanutlover]

Hello all. My neighbor has a 1976 Model 29 with 5" barrel. (.357 mag)

It's had maybe 6 rounds fired through it - beautiful blueing and original wood grips.

If he sells it to me what's a fair price? I'm gonna check the blue book later.

Also, if I carry it can I keep it loaded with the hammer down?

Thanks in advance for your responses.

 

[Vern Humphrey]

I assume you're talking about a Smith and Wesson?

All Smith and Wessons manufactured in the last century can be safely carried hammer down on a loaded chamber. It is only very old designs, like the Colt Single Action Army that must be carried with the hammer down on an empty chamber.

 

[Haycreek]

Model 27

You referred to the revolver as both, a 27 and a 29, which is it ? The 27 is worth a little more around here.

 

[peanutlover]

Sorry, it's a S&W 27

Haycreek, you're right. I called the pistol both a 27 and a 29. I guess I've got both on my mind.

The pistol in question is a Model 27 and it's beautiful. I've got another friend with a 29 (6.5") he's reluctant to give up. But I'm working on him.

The 27 has very few rounds through it. What do you think it's worth here in So. California?

The 29 belongs to another friend. It was stolen years ago then returned by the police after it was used/recovered from a crime. He's got it sitting in a box in his garage and says it's got some light surface rust. I'm trying to get him to sell it to me. What's it worth to offer him?

Thanks again.

 

[Skofnung]

I don't know exactly what it is worth, but were I you, I would hop on that thing. My first centerfire handgun was a S&W 28 (an "economy" version of the 27) and I consider it to be the best .357 for any price. A 27 would be that much better due to the fit and finish.

They don't make revolvers like that anymore. Ten years down the line if you find that you don't like it, you'll be able to sell it for a tidy profit.

 

[riverdog]

If you wait for that gun to turn up in a gunshop you'll be looking at $450 plus. 1976, pinned and recessed, 100% bluing, not carried and fired little -- do not hesitate if it's for sale. I love the older N-frames.

 

[Kurac]

If you find a 27-2 like that at a gun shop in S. CA. it would be a good buy even if it was $550. The last one I saw was a 3.5" and I bought it for $775. The only other one I saw this year was an 8" gun and it was $650. The Blue Book price will normally be low on a gun like especial considering that we are in CA, so if you use that price you will be getting a good deal.

 

[Dave Markowitz]

The 5" Model 27 is my dream gun. I'm still looking for one. You should be all over that piece like white on rice.

 

[Standing Wolf]

If you find a 27-2 like that at a gun shop in S. CA. it would be a good buy even if it was $550.

That's probably an understatement by at least $50, possibly $100.

 

[thatguy]

Prices in CA are skewed because of the law forbidding import of unlisted guns. A nice 5" 27-2 (1976 would be a 27-2) in most of America is worth $450-$550. In CA I would add $200 at least due to scarcity. But you said it's rusted. Bad news. How bad? Honestly, to me a rusted gun is worth zero. But I don't live in CA. If it's just finish and no pitting, reblue is $200 or so at S&W or Ford's and the value is halved by doing it. So, $250-$350 (CA prices) if it needs bluing. If pitted, I would say no more than $200 as knock-around shooter. But a desperate California gun seeker may pay more.

 

[dogngun]

The 27 is a beautiful classic Smith, SIX SHOT revolver. It will handle any .357 magnum or .38 special load without problems. It's a large gun, but the balance and smoothness of the action are, as stated above, the best.

The 29 is an excellent revolver, same size as the 27, but chambered for the .44 magnum, and will also shoot .44 specials.

How rusty is rusty ? I have seen guns returned by the police after being stolen, and I'd probably pass on it. Between the thieves and the police, the finish is pretty much destroyed, and maybe the lockwork as well.

Prices in California are higher than anywhere else in the US - Buy it now, it will only go higher.

Mark

 

[Jim K]

Just to be nitpicky, it is true that all modern S&Ws have an internal hammer block that will prevent firing if the gun is dropped or struck on the hammer. BUT, that block can be removed, and some owners did that, either losing it accidentally or because they were under the impression that a better trigger pull could be achieved without it.

So, a good idea when checking out any DA revolver is to make sure the gun is unloaded, then look into the space ahead of the hammer while slowly cocking and uncocking the hammer. In an S&W or Colt, you should see the hammer block moving up and down; in a Ruger (DA or modern SA), you should see the transfer bar moving up as the hammer is cocked. If you don't see anything moving, have the gun checked out by a competent gunsmith.

Jim

 

[jondar]

Correct me if I am wrong on this, but wasn't the hammer block added to the M&Ps and Victory Model about 1942? I've been told that it came about after the death of a sailor aboard ship when he dropped his sidearm on the deck and it discharged. If true, then revolvers of these models would be unsafe unless loaded with five rounds.

 

[Old Fuff]

The devil is in the details...

Smith & Wesson hand ejector (swing-out) revolvers have had a hammer rebounding device that moves the firing pin back into the frame so that it can't touch a primer. However this is not a positive hammer block! If the hammer spur was hit a solid blow it was possible to either crack the hammer or the stud that it revolved on. Then the firing pin might (just might) be able to hit the primer in front of it.

During the 1920's and 30's they introduced a hammer block of sorts, but it wasn't foolproof, and therefore "positive." It was also fragile and prone to breaking.

In 1944 the famous incident on the battleship occurred, and in early 1945 S&W introduced a true positive hammer block in their K-frame Victory Model revolvers. Following the war, the block was incorporated into all S&W revolvers except those with enclosed hammers. They still use this style of block today.

However Jim Keenan is right - some owners for various (foolish) reasons removed the block. Anyone who purchases an older revolver made after 1946 should check and be sure it's there.

I have a simple rule of thumb. If it is a post-war gun with a functioning hammer block I will carry the cylinder fully loaded. If for whatever reason it doesn't have the block I carry the hammer down on an empty chamber. So far this hasn't caused me any problems, and I'd rather be safe then sorry.

If someone is concerned about getting into a gunfight (I'm not) there are far better choices to carry then vintage revolvers.