Hawk
Member
What we've got is a 28-2 that shells stick in the charge holes and is sometimes sticky when opening the cylinder.
I'm guessing the charge holes are just rough – the 28-2 is smack in the middle of the 'Nam era Bangor Punta Dark Times. Loaded rounds or new Starline drop in and fall out so I'm guessing the sticking couldn't be related to crud from .38 specials. Also I'm guessing a chamber reamer wouldn't do any good as the charge holes are likely at or over spec based on the ease of inserting / removing unfired rounds. Enthusiastic bronze brushing hasn't produced any results so I'm guessing the next step is JB polish / mop / drill motor.
There’s a teensy bit of run out on the extractor rod that doesn't do anything perceptible to cylinder rotation – it's as smooth as any I own. However, could it possibly be enough run out to sometimes put a minor bind on the cylinder release? It doesn't stick all the time.
In fact, the brass sticks with sufficient tenacity that I wonder if the runout wasn't caused by a former owner beating on the extractor rod with a boot heel – I was sorely tempted myself. Too bad we'll never know 'cause the gun can't talk. If it could, I'd have a few questions.
Anyhow, does the rough chamber diagnosis seem plausible and the JB a reasonable try? ( didn’t see an equivalent to the Brownell's "Flex-Hone" for .357) I can live with the occasional sticking releasing the cylinder, it's the hole I'm getting in my hand from pushing on a stubborn extractor rod that's bothering me. Kuhnhausen says I don’t have the facilities to attack the runout and I'm not seeing a need to do so – it appears unrelated to the brass sticking.
I should mention it's not ammo related – there was a 686 along for the ride and it didn’t suffer from the 28-2's problems.
...and Fuff, if the answer to the above is in the Standard Catalog, I'll eat the target grips on the 28-2. Thanks to my bride for getting me a set of licorice grip panels.
I'm guessing the charge holes are just rough – the 28-2 is smack in the middle of the 'Nam era Bangor Punta Dark Times. Loaded rounds or new Starline drop in and fall out so I'm guessing the sticking couldn't be related to crud from .38 specials. Also I'm guessing a chamber reamer wouldn't do any good as the charge holes are likely at or over spec based on the ease of inserting / removing unfired rounds. Enthusiastic bronze brushing hasn't produced any results so I'm guessing the next step is JB polish / mop / drill motor.
There’s a teensy bit of run out on the extractor rod that doesn't do anything perceptible to cylinder rotation – it's as smooth as any I own. However, could it possibly be enough run out to sometimes put a minor bind on the cylinder release? It doesn't stick all the time.
In fact, the brass sticks with sufficient tenacity that I wonder if the runout wasn't caused by a former owner beating on the extractor rod with a boot heel – I was sorely tempted myself. Too bad we'll never know 'cause the gun can't talk. If it could, I'd have a few questions.
Anyhow, does the rough chamber diagnosis seem plausible and the JB a reasonable try? ( didn’t see an equivalent to the Brownell's "Flex-Hone" for .357) I can live with the occasional sticking releasing the cylinder, it's the hole I'm getting in my hand from pushing on a stubborn extractor rod that's bothering me. Kuhnhausen says I don’t have the facilities to attack the runout and I'm not seeing a need to do so – it appears unrelated to the brass sticking.
I should mention it's not ammo related – there was a 686 along for the ride and it didn’t suffer from the 28-2's problems.
...and Fuff, if the answer to the above is in the Standard Catalog, I'll eat the target grips on the 28-2. Thanks to my bride for getting me a set of licorice grip panels.
