molybdenum disulfide?

[Quincy12]

Has anyone tried using MoS 2 (the dry versions) on the internal sliding surfaces of revolvers or pistols? I use it in an industrial setting with great success and have thought about using it on the of a couple of my handguns. I like the fact that it is dry and does not attract or hold onto dirt and at least in the product I use it bonds to the metal surface at the molecular level. Just curious if anyone has tried it and what your thoughts might be? Thanks.

Q

 

[Jolly Rogers]

I remember a plea from soldiers in the Viet Nam war requesting Bux Dri Slide for weapons lube. It was a solvent carried MosS2 that penetrated and dried to a Moly treated action. The dry lube didn't attract any grit in the field.
Joe

 

[beag_nut]

I use it, but I mix it with RIG grease first (won't migrate), then use an infinitesimal amount. It works.

 

[Coltdriver]

You can get it in a liquid suspension in a product called Plate+ made by Sprinco.

I have used it for years. Great stuff. You treat a part and then dry it off. It will slick up anything.

You do not want to treat a chamber. If you eliminate the ability of the brass to hold itself in a chamber you will get excessive bolt face pressure.

If you live in a wet environment I would not recommend it. I have treated barrels and it pretty much stops fouling. I have slicked up revolver trigger mechanisms and it makes them very smooth. Did the internals on a Hi Power once and it became smooth as glass.

The only downside I know of is that it becomes acidic in the presence of moisture. Not a problem in Colorado. Would be an issue in a high humidity environment.

 

[Jim K]

The "grease" version of "Molly Di" was the lubricant in the little "pots" issued with the M1 rifle in late WWII and for some years afterward. It is a good lubricant, either in that form or dry.

Jim

 

[rcmodel]

No, I don't think it was Moly grease in the M1 cleaning kits.

The yellow grease in the Garand cleaning kits was Lubriplate.
Or Plastilube.
Neither were Molybdenum disulfide based.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/446877/lubriplate-130-a-mil-spec-grease-14-oz-can

Molybdenum disulfide powder or grease is silver black like graphite powder, and slick as owl snot in high friction high temp industrial applications.

The problem is, if you get it on your skin, or your clothes?
You will be stained black from then on because you can't wash it off.

I used it on high temp injection molding dies for years.
And every pair of pants or shirt it got on was stained black until it wore out.

I have also used it very sparingly on trigger sears.

But I would not care to get involved cleaning a gun where it had been used extensively all over inside.

rc

 

[Drail]

I used that stuff for years on trigger jobs and RC is right - it is the nastiest blackest stuff you'll ever get on your clothes or hands and it will not wash out of your clothes. I think maybe Harley Davidson invented it. A little dab will do ya. It is awfully slick.

 

[Rule3]

As rc says, Moly which was the "craze" a few years ago is tenacious stuff. Once applied it is near impossible to remove, It is one of the slickest products known.

They had/have moly bullets and people coated their barrels with it, Then tried to shoot regular jacketed an had problems.

It is great for industrial heavy duty gears and such. I see no need for it in guns or ammo. It doesn't go away!

 

[Jim K]

Rcmodel is correct; the M1 rifle "goose grease" is Lubriplate 130A and it is not moly di; I have no idea where I got the wrong info, but it was many years ago. Apologies for the error.

Jim

 

[rcmodel]

No apology necessary.

We all make errors occasionally in posting off the cuff answers.

Yours are very few and far between my friend!!!!

rc

 

[Reloadron]

Something I used extensively in the past was called Neolube #1 which is just a dry film, conductive lubricant, used extensively at nuclear power generating plants and other nuclear facilities as an anti-seize compound, thread lubricant and for lubricating moving parts and rubbing surfaces. The composition of this material is 99% pure furnace graphite particles, a thermoplastic resin and isopropanol. So all you have is powdered graphite suspended in isopropanol alcohol used as the transfer medium. The alcohol evaporates leaving a dry film. Much like technical grade moly (molybdenum disulphide) anything it comes in contact with is forever black. Shop rags were forever black.

I also went through the phase of molybdenum disulphide coating bullets but never really saw any appreciable gain from the process and work. I was using Frankford Arsenal Technical Grade Moly 8 oz from Midway. An eight ounce jug is likely a lifetime supply.

Something I have given thought to is mixing some powdered moly with isopropanol alcohol and making a dry lube for guns, just never tried it. I would test it first.

Then in the world of lubricants we have this:

National Lampoons Christmas Vacation.

Ron

 

[rbernie]

I always thought that the original formulation of the mil-spec CLP had moly disulfide in it?

----

ETA - I did a quick search on the current NSN for CLP and its relevant specs, as far back as the 1979 spec it states that CLP shall contain no graphites or powdered metals. I may simply be misremembering....

 

[ClarkEMyers]

I used Dri Slide and aereosols with Moly during the Vietnam era.

I used Dri Slide and aereosols with Moly during the Vietnam era. I had to really shake up the Dri Slide can and the carrier did not evaporate quickly. I used aerosols - Zep brand I think it was chain and cable lube which was a pretty color and flashed off quickly. I tended to paint with the Zep and then lubricate with Anderol which was a popular light oil wonder lube in the 70's.

I also used Isky -Iskendarian - cam lube on bolts, shotgun trunnions and triggers and was entirely satisfied. I haven't seen much from Isky in recent years and don't use any of the moly products currently but I'm sure they would work as well now as they did then - especially the Isky for triggers where the pull was first rate.

 

[natman]

Once upon a time I used a lot of Dri-Slide because it was the only dry lube easily available. It works great, but it does stain everything it touches permanently.

Nowadays after the mountain bike revolution, every bicycle store sells a variety of dry lubes. My favorite is White Lightning.