my first batch...

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trigga

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got my press yesterday and all set up for 40 sw. just ordered 1k xtreme bullets 180 gr copper plated round nose. anyhow i went to a local gun shop and was looking for powder. what they had on the shelf was red dot, green dot, and bullseye. not very familiar with powder and according to what they had i went with bullseye. i looked in the lyman handbook and none of the powder are in the book for .40, so does that mean i have to come up with my own load data? trial and error? going back for some cci no. 500 primers tomorrow...

the prices there were fairly high for a pound. $25 there vs $17 on midway, almost makes it cheaper paying for hazmat along with primers in bulk... but i was glad they had something instead of nothing online.

http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/powderlist.aspx?type=1&powderid=1&cartridge=29

according to this data, i plan on loading a batch (50x) of 5 gr, 5.5 gr, and 6 gr. suggestions? experience? is 6 a bit on the hot side?
 
Yes you can use BE powder for the 40 SW. It is not my choice for the 40 SW but it has data. I think it is to fast a powder. I prefer a medium or slower powder but you got what you got.:)

Plated bullets as a general rule, use the start to midway load of FMJ or the data for lead bullets of the same weight.

Where did you get 6.0 grains?? the max on the website is 5.5 gr and that is for a totally different bullet.! Your start should be 90% of that or 4.95 ((5.0) grains. Do not load 50 your first batch. load 10 or 20 and see how they work out.

Alliant only lists the MAX load. so reduce by 10% to start. You will have to determine the OAL based on your barrel, not the listed one on the website as it is not the same bullet.

Invest in a few more manuals. Lyman is very good but it's nice to have others to compare to. Hornady, Speer etc.
 
i didn't know that was the max load for 180 gr. gun is a glock 22 factory barrel and storm lake 6" barrel. thanks for the pointers. i was actually looking for unique or power pistol but this bullseye was all i could find.
 
too fast of a powder? meaning more for heavier bullets? what are the pros and cons?
 
Where are you in Wisconsin? I like green dot, can you exchange the bullseye if you can't find load data?
 
plan on testing it out with light loads first. they have green dot at the store i went to for cheaper. looks like it's more for shotgun and revolvers.
 
Slow powders = builds to peak pressure slower than faster powders.

If you can try to find some Longshot or AA#7 for the 40 S&W and you will do very well.

You are correct, Unique and Power Pistol would have been better choices than Bullseye but these days you have to buy what they have on the shelf.

All the load data on the Alliant site is the MAX charge weight for that combination. Reduce their numbers by 10% to find the starting charge weight and work up slowly looking for the most accurate load. (and excessive pressures too of course)
 
^^^^

There you go, ARCH, answered the powder question (fast VS slow)

You stated you have Lymans (is it the 49th?) Look in the beginning of the manual they explain powders

Each powder companies website has information on their powders and recommended uses. They also have load data but nothing beats:

Manuals my friend, manuals:D
 
The Lyman 49th lists load data for Bullseye powder under a 180gr. 40S&W bullet.

That's the powder I've been loading with and I like it.
 
Bullseye is one of the finest pistol powders on the face of the earth. It will also go from safe to dangerous in about 0.5 grains. DO NOT GO CHASING HIGH VELOCITY OR EXCEED LISTED MAX LOADS WITH BULLSEYE!
As others stated, READ the front half of the Lyman manual over and over. I've been reloading for over 30 yrs now and still read it from time to time. Other manuals have similar info, just the Lyman seems to translate better into everyday language.
 
Of the three you named, Green Dot is probably the most suitable for .40 S&W because it is the slowest (although still a moderately fast powder). Heed the cautions left by others above, and never just guess and "come up with" your own load. You might develop a stump at the end of your arm.
 
i didn't know that was the max load for 180 gr. gun is a glock 22 factory barrel and storm lake 6" barrel. thanks for the pointers. i was actually looking for unique or power pistol but this bullseye was all i could find.

Statements like that tell me you did not read the first page of the online manual which I copied and posted below. Now please do not take thus wrong, we are all trying to help here. Manuals are more than just load data recipes.

Just because a powder was tested and there is data does not mean it is the best one for the job, The 40 SW is a high pressure round compared to say a 45 ACP. A fast powder can and will build up pressure very quickly and to much is a bad thing.
The horror stories of Glock Kabooms usually involve fast powders like Tite Group, the 40 SW and 180 gr bullets (yes, I know it can happen anytime any gun so no piling on here, just a a example for the OP)

Yes BE can be used but at the correct weight, so weigh all your charges until you are sure if what you are doing, Use a loading try, look in each case before seating a bullet.

From Alliant:



WARNING

The information displayed on this site, including ballistic data, was derived from tightly controlled laboratory conditions. This information and data may vary considerably depending on many factors, including the components used, component assembly, the type of firearm used, reloading techniques, safety precautions practiced, etc.

Never mix any two powders regardless of type, brand, or source.
Never substitute any smokeless powder for Black Powder or its substitute.

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USE THIS DATA WITH ALLIANT BRAND POWDERS ONLY.

REDUCE RIFLE AND HANDGUN CHARGE WEIGHTS BY 10% TO ESTABLISH A STARTING LOAD.
The exceptions to this are the loads listed as "target" in the 38 Special and 45 ACP data tables.

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Enter the Guide
 
Yes BE can be used but at the correct weight, so weigh all your charges until you are sure if what you are doing, Use a loading try, look in each case before seating a bullet.
This quote cannot be overstressed.

Just for an experiment, for your own information and experience ONLY, perform the following exercise. Do not do this with live primed cases!:
Take 10 fired cases before sizing/decapping - leave the spent primer in place - and place them in a loading block. Drop 4.5 grains of powder in each one and double charge only one. Place the double charged case between two single charged cases. stand over the loading block with a flashlight and look into the cases. Notice how much volume remains unfilled by the powder of the single charged cases and notice how different the double charged case is. Now you have an extreme example of what you are looking for when you are checking your cases before seating bullets, but in reality, you are looking for ANY irregularity. Now dump the powder into a clean cup and return it to the canister you originally poured it from.

When loading, always check the cases before seating bullets. If there is anything that appears irregular about the powder levels of any of the cases, pull that (those) case(s) and the ones on either side and weigh each of the charges independently. Place the powder charge back in the case if correct or return to the canister if not correct. In the event charge weights are not 100% correct, re-check the powder measure setting and recalibrate your electronic scale, if appropriate. Test your balance beam scale with your check weights.

Because handgun cartridges use so little propellant to get the job done correctly, a small mistake in powder charge weight can make a heck of a difference. Sometimes catastrophically so! You cannot be too careful with this stuff! Using an appropriate powder, rather than just one 'with data', is a very wise thing to do. One mistake can ruin a perfectly good firearm - and your day with it. :what:

Just my two cents.

Poper
 
When I first started handloading I used Clays for .40 S&W. It worked but, the quick pressure spikes sure bulged the brass. I have pretty good results staying between Winchester 231 and AutoComp. You will like Power Pistol. Good velocity. It makes a real pretty orange flame out your barrel too!
 
yes i did read that Rule3. thanks for the input guys. just got done depriming a couple hundred spent casing. waiting for stainless steel media for wet tumbler and bullets on monday and i will be in business. should be able to go out this following weekend to test them out. gonna load 4.8, 5.0, and 5.2 @ 20 rounds each. not going to max it out.
 
while buying primers today at Gander, they had two bottles of blue dot (nothing else for pistols). according to the burn chart below in link, you guys think this is better for the .40? i know it's slower burning but is it too slow? i really hate gander as they have the worse customer service but they're one of very few who gets a wide variety of shipments as compared to my preferred gun shop. i try to avoid them at all cost.
http://www.hodgdon.com/burn-rate.html
 
Yes, I think you'll like Blue Dot better. I like it in .40 and .45 as well as magnum revolver loads. It's not as good in short barrels, but should work well in your 6" barrel.
 
trigga,
I know finding powder is hard right now but I think you will be better off hunting around for the powders you want instead of settling for something that's not that good, especially since you're new at this.

Try to find: Longshot, AA#7, AutoComp, Power Pistol, Silhouette or HS-6 before you go to other powders.
 
JMO but BLUE DOT is flaming dirt. It is more of a magnum load powder.

Arch gave some good powders. I really like Power Pistol.
HP38/Win 231 is a pretty much do all powder also

In reference to powder burn rates, don't know if you have this chart. It shows what we mean by fastest to slowest.

http://www.hodgdon.com/burn-rate.html
 
they had two bottles of blue dot
I like Blue Dot in .40 actually. It is certainly better suited than BE in my opinion. I would pick it up. I went as high as 8.3 Grs with an X-Treme 180 Gr HP loaded at 1.140 to 1.145 OAL with a WSP primer. That gave an Avg 1028 FPS from my son's 4.5" XDm. We backed off after that and are using 8.1 Grs Blue Dot. It gives around 950ish FPS (Similar to many factory offerings), shoots well, and the recoil is not as sharp. Universal and Longshot also work well.

This load appears safe in the guns we fired it in, use at your own risk. Start low and work up.
 
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