My small T99 Arisaka Sporter Family....

[LoonWulf]

Looks like its thin enough that you should be able to torch it and bend it without causing heat damage. I used a pair of map torches to take some of the bend out of the handle on the 6-284.

On the 6.5-284 I cut the handle and drilled and tapped the stub at an angle 1/4-20 Seems sturdy enough so far.

 

[Clark]

Price tag says type 38, but it looks like a Type 99 Nagoya series 2 to me.
I can't figure out the mfg date.

 

[LoonWulf]

Looks like a t99 to me too, but again ive never handled a t38

Marking for the Date looks like 1944....but again tho...i know zip besides what google tells me.

 

[EastBound&Down]

Nothing beats a milsurp. Nice guns.

 

[LoonWulf]

Thanks, yeah they certainly do provide a great deal of entertainment!

 

[BrocLuno]

As long as most folks think they are freaks, the price will stay down.

You'all keep showing these good ones and the price will rise

Both of you are doing real well. These are some fine rifles. Good on everyone who builds Arisaka's

 

[EastBound&Down]

Thanks, yeah they certainly do provide a great deal of entertainment![/QUOTE

As long as most folks think they are freaks, the price will stay down.

You'all keep showing these good ones and the price will rise

Both of you are doing real well. These are some fine rifles. Good on everyone who builds Arisaka's

Milsurps are fun, but another perk is that they have been proven and tested. Major world militaries would not have used them if they weren't good at their job.
The only tricky thing is the ammo

 

[LoonWulf]

Finally got the stock glassed in, bottom metal and bolt Ceramacoated, and reshaped the trigger a bit.
For some reason i decided to do a highgloss finish on this one. I havent done a shiny finish since highschool i think, i usually prefer oil rubbed.
Since i was doing a shiny stock i polished the extractor also.....anyway, still moving so no shooting. Gonna need another project now also.....

 

[Clark]

I was woodworking last night, and used sanding sealer. That is the first time since 1965 8th grade woodshop. I was able to get a glossy look:
sand
sanding sealer
maroon scotch brite
True oil
OO steel wool
Johnson's wax

What did you do?

 

[LoonWulf]

Teak oil last week. After it stoped seeping out of the pores i sanded all the scratch marks out from my stripping the poly earlier, and let it dry for a few more days.
Over the last two days ive been applying target brand poly clear top coat, and sanding it off with 0000 steel wool to finish filling pores.
I got tired of it before getting the pores properly filled. If id had a brush on poly it woulda been done sooner, and properly, but getting a no run med/heavy coat with spray poly is hard.
Today was evening out the finish with 0000 steel wool, final wet sand with 1000, then final polish with nufinish paste wax.

Getting the highgloss finish is a pain in the butt.
I used to refinish pool cues. My short cut was to use west systems epoxy to do a single med/heavy coat and turn them on my dads pole wraping jig. That way it was a 1 shot application and only one sand down and polish....unless i screwed up, which i did alot.

That method works on gunstocks as well, but since they arnt round its better to do a couple light coats and sand in between.

 

[LoonWulf]

My knife handle making buddy does gloss finish with an oil rub, but he polishes down to something like 4k.....i need to ask him which oil he uses also ive wanted to try it, but i just dont think i have the patience.




Forgot to say ive never worked with sanding sealer....ive seen it but never looked into it. That looks like a good option for doing the pore fill, better than poly.

 

[Clark]

I can see it better when I take a picture

 

[LoonWulf]

That looks pretty good! Filling pores is always one of those things that i have to force myself to do properly....sometimes i even succeed

Thats gonna be a really nice looking handle.

 

[LoonWulf]

Closer look at the trigger, and what the poly finish looked like before evening it out, and polishing.